I got one of the two UF-1504’s that Nitro ordered before the group buy. Tonight I got bored so I threw a slobber (dog did it) dedomed XP-L V6 3C in there. The LED is on a 16mm Sinkpad II driven by a A17DD-S08 driver. Driver spring and switch spring had 22ga wire soldered in them. The pill was packed. Overall, I’m unimpressed I apologize for the crappy pictures. I was in a hurry and just shot them with my iphone. It doesn’t show it but the emitter is pretty well focused with no adjusting. There are damn rings everywhere!!! I blackened the pill with a Sharpie to see if the will help. I’ll have to get some other shots.
Tailcap assembly
Lens assembly
Tube (30mm will make it easy to find rifle mounts)
In your set-up the throw should be close to 400kcd, that is a pretty bright beam. The large ring disappears when you blacken the inside edge of the pill. The ring directly around the hotspot should be less if you use very matt paint for the retaining ring. If you find a way to screw/glue down the ledboard, you can leave out the black retaining ring and completely get rid of the bright ring around the hotspot.
I tried a dedomed XP-G2 R5 in my shortened UF-1405 and measured 407kcd. Now it has a dedomed XM-L2 T6 3C and I measured 340kcd. The latest bin cool white one should get close to or over 400kcd I guess.
I don't know why XP-G2 and XM-L2 come so close together in this light, even at the higher current the XM-L2 should throw a bit worse than it does, or the XP-G2 should throw better...
Perhaps different ways of dedoming do affect brightness after all??
My luxmeter is as good as it gets and I carefully measure the luxvalue at 5 meter, trying to find the brightest part of the hotspot (which is what the ANSI method describes).
I just checked and only pulling 5.8a at the tail. That’s using 10” long 10awg wire. Gold plated connectors to the meter and bare wires on the other end.
The weird thing is it is only showing 600lm on my contraption. It’s been pretty close on other lights but 600 is much lower than it should be for this light.
Is your lumen-measure-device of the bended pipe type? Because the integration of the light is not of 'integrating sphere quality' the reading is more or less sensitive to beam shape. As long as the typical beam is applied (hotspot+spill) the readings are comparable, but a zoomie in flood mode does not have a hotspot and will read lower (but how much lower I would not know because I never had one of those pipe contraptions to do measurements on)
I am sorry if i gave you or anyone the impression that i have an calibrated “lumen-measure-device” i don’t i only base my estimates on measurement in know lights, with know led bins at know amps with known low resistance mods from those who have like you, Dale, Tom E & RMM have done.
I hope i get close but they are only estimates 0:)
Yes, I’m using a pipe device. I haven’t had the opportunity to build a sphere. I tried it in flood, halfway, and zoom. The only thing I didn’t try was without the aspheric lens. I just left the house to get some beamshots at 300 meters at the shooting range, but it’s too damn foggy. I’ll try again tomorrow night. I added a centering piece to go between the LED and pill/led retaining ring. I blacked it out as well, but I may take it all out today and spray it with flat black paint.
The lens may be the cause of the low lumens, or it could have been the dog chewing on the LED. That dang dedoming dog Either way, 600 is much lower than I expected. Also I’m a little disappointed at the 338kcd. I expected it to be around 375kcd. The current seems low at 5.8a too. Everything is low!!!
Cajampa, I did specify the driver as an A17DD-S08 which is the one Wight designed. What are you talking about when you said I changed to a switch I got off ebay? The switch in this light is the stock one.
I used the Ebay-switch in my UF-1405 mod because the stock switch and mounting was utter crap. But from the second batch onwards Uniquefire upgraded the switch to the common Omten switch on a 17mm board, which is much better. Bypassing the spring is a must, but I see no reason to change the switch.
Hmm thats not good, i hope they haven’t cheaped out on the switches but i had planned to upgrade to the Ebay 6A one anyway.
About your output at 338 for 5.8A sounds about right.
If the xp-l at 5.8a does 338kcd * 20% is 6.96A for ~405kcd minus efficiency losses at the higher amp to get us hopefully be close to 400kcd
I plan to run it without a driver just fat wires to the top of the spring for + & drilled & soldered bump for the - on the contact board
And a colder led should have a little less phosphor, for a bit more possible output on the highest flux bins also, 3C is pretty warm, how do you like it when dedomed?
If you upgrade the wires & switch you should get close if the emitter is ok.
Maybe a a slightly better battery could help also.
The 25R is good, but the other lumens hounds here often uses the HE2, Efest purple 35A or Sony VTC5 for there highest readings, i plan to buy the Green Efest 26550 50Amp, that i have seen in at least one comparison gave even higher amp than those classic high drain 18650 options.
I already have some 50a efest 26650’s en route ($19.49 for two from US ebay seller). Highest I have in 18650 is the 25R’s. If I have time today, I may upgrade to 18ga or 20ga wires and see if there is a difference.
I apologize for the crappy pictures. I was in a hurry and just shot them with my iphone. It doesn’t show it but the emitter is pretty well focused with no adjusting. There are damn rings everywhere!!! I blackened the pill with a Sharpie to see if the will help. I’ll have to get some other shots.
i am also curious.
Either way, 600 is much lower than I expected. Also I’m a little disappointed at the 338kcd. I expected it to be around 375kcd. The current seems low at 5.8a too. Everything is low!!!
here often uses the HE2, Efest purple 35A or Sony VTC5 for there highest readings, i plan to buy the Green Efest 26550 50Amp, that i have seen in at least one comparison gave even higher amp than those classic high drain 18650 options.