How do you take the pill out? is it clockwise or counter clockwise? I can’t seem to be able to take it out either way :~
Nice 
then we get a idea how much of a gain we get when going from 22awg & to fatter ones.
The pill is clockwise. The led retaining ring is counterclockwise
My UF-1405 pill came out clock-wise, so the 'wrong' way.
I expect the low lumens value is partially because of the distance between the LED and the lens when in flood mode. There is a substantial gap compared to other zoomies I’ve modified. Combined with the deep and narrow spot where the retaining ring threads, which might also be blocking some of the light, and you have a recipe for lowered lumens in flood without the measured throw being effected. I use my lathe and shorten the front face of the pill, and then remove as much as I can from around the transition from the threads to the angled face. (I’ve done this with 1405’s, I expect 1504’s will be the same)
Black sharpie or paint are a must to keep those rings you’re seeing to a minimum.
For reference, that pill has a Noctigon mounted XM-L2 U2 3C running a 5 amp driver. I measured around 935 lumens(in flood mode). A stock 1405 measured 400 lumens in my PVC pipe.
That’s the weird thing though KKW, I actually had higher lumens with flood and lower with zoom.
That’s how it should be. With this light I lose 300+ lumens when I zoom it in. How far is your spread?
And it’s not a fluke on my light. I have another 1405 with a dedomed XP-G2 S2 2B on a LD –4B driver (2.4A) and a modified pill, and it makes 500 lumens in flood mode.
The XM-L2 U2 3C in the picture above is dedomed by the way, for those that didn’t notice.
Guys this is very interesting and important question from Djozz...
I think someone mentioned(Mitko?) that he tried gasoline and acetone dedoming and he noticed that gas dedoming has greater influence on tint shift to warmer color while acetone dedoming makes emitter tint cooler.
If this is true candela gain with different dedoming methods is quite possible because aspherics loves cool white emitter and will always outthrow neutral or any other warmer tint emitter(moded in same way).
I think 90% of us use gasoline dedoming so if we could get some gain out of dedoming with acetone or any other method that makes tint cooler that would be perfect.
Well I rewired it with 18awg wire. There is about a 80 lumen difference with the lens on and off. It is better focused now and I can see where some phosphor is dim in the beam on the wall. That should have an impact on my numbers. Oh well, waiting on my XP-G2’s to arrive.
I used to use gasoline, but it was always a guessing game whether it would work, I think becuase of all the ethanol in Iowa gas. I tried paint thinner, and it works on XP-L because it dissolves the white layer under the dome, but not the dome itself. I don’t think it would work on any other emitter.
I just recently tried the hot-dedome method, and it was much easier than I thought. I quickly dedomed 3 emitters (2 XPL, 1 XPG2) without any issues.
All mine are hot dedomes.
I found interesting thread from Vinz, and what he managed to do is outstanding.
He can change color tint from neutral to cool white with some kind of diamond treating???
My next ones will all be hot dedomes. I hope that I’m done with the dog slobber dedomes. It was successful in a sense but not perfect as he damaged some of the phosphor, approx 10%
n10sivern,
Could you give us results gas vs hot dedome?
although gas vs aceton vs hot dedome would be perfect :)
This is VERY interesting. Any more details or is it all highly hush hush?
My guess is he is utilizing a certain type of led seal, probably picking one that has a similar refractive index to the dome material. Thereby essentially restoring the refractive properties of the dome/die interface (which allows more blue light to escape) while still being very thin and not magnifying the dome.
Anyone know any more on this?
I don’t have more info, but I’m kinda puzzled as to the purpose of it.
I like dedoming because it gives me a more neutral tint while still being able to use top flux bins. (plus the throw increase obviously)
Why would you want a more blue beam?
I agree very interesting, but even if he refuse to reveal it, now we know that it is possible at least.
Maybe he is using actual diamond dust mixed in to led sealer. Or maybe he is using some form of coating that glimmers.
Well quite apart from any tint shift preferences this approach could also reduce the amount of output loss we see when dedoming. I believe I saw that mentioned in the thread linked.
More blue photons making it out of the phosphor rather than being internally reflected/refracted and further converted to warmer frequencies. In terms of achieving maximum throw this tint shift side effect of dedoming is unwanted and counterproductive, it just so happens that the gains seen by eliminating the apparent magnification of the die through the dome has an overwhelming effect that makes this loss in output acceptable.
Getting more blue light out is useful, especially when used in conjunction with a wavien collar/reflective aperture since the light lost and returned by the collar would be bluer and have a higher energy potential when being recycled by the phosphor.
Has any got any experience with using different types of led seal and the effect on tint vs bare dedomed dies?
pilotdog, we want to keep as much of the blue light in a thrower if we are going to use an collar to recycle light for example, because blue light is more energetic & can excite the phosphor more than the other spectrum of light, and when the light gets recycled it gets warmer by that process also.
So for maximum throw when using a collar we start with an as cool led as possible & if we can keep that tint after dedome we most likely will gain throw.