I purchased 37 different AA batteries across four types (Alkaline, NiMH, LiFeS2, and buck-converted Lithium-Ion) in order to find the best for flashlight enthusiasts.
Each battery went through three tests:
- CBA test @ 250mA
- CBA test @ 2A
- Runtime test in Convoy T3 (519a) @ 100% output.
Full list of batteries tested:
ALKALINE
- AmazonBasics Alkaline
- Kirkland Signature
- eCircuit Blue*
- eCircuit Red
- Duracell Optimum
- Duracell Powerboost
- Energizer Alkaline Power
- Energizer Industrial
- Energizer Max
- Great Value Alkaline
- Rayovac Fusion
- Rayovac Fusion+
- Rayovac High Energy
- Rayovac Ultra Pro
NiMH:
- AmazonBasics NiMH
- AmazonBasics NiMH High-Capacity
- Duracell Recharge
- EBL NiMH 2500
- EBL NiMH 2800
- Energizer Recharge Value
- Energizer Recharge Universal
- Energizer Recharge Power Plus
- IKEA LADDA 1900
- IKEA LADDA 2450
- Panasonic Eneloop
- Panasonic Eneloop Pro
- PowerOwl NiMH 2800
- Rayovac Recharge
LiFeS2:
- Blinkpower Lithium AA
- EBL Lithium AA
- Energizer Ultimate Lithium
- Powerowl Lithium AA
- Voniko Lithium AA
Lithium-Ion AAs:
- Coast Zithion-X
- EBL 3000
- EBL 3500
- Zepath 3600
OVERALL RESULTS:
Alkaline:
Most alkaline batteries saw a steep decline in measured capacity between the 250mA and the 2A tests - these do not handle high current draws well.
In the Convoy T3, the general trend was for a breif period of high output, and then a gradual deline in output throughout the rest of the runtime. Many of these batteries technically had a pretty long runtime, but not at meaningfully high output levels.
NiMH
Most NiMH batteries had very similar measaured capacities between the high and low current tests, which was quite impressive.
In both the CBA and the Convoy tests, NiMH batteries were able to hold their voltage very steady trhoughout the run, allowing them to produce consistent performance through their lifespan - very nice!
LiFeS2
These cells had significantly longer runtimes across the board, though they lost some capacity in the higher current draw tests relative to the 250mA test. We also see declining voltage throughout the test.
Runtimes in the Convoy light much longer than any other type, and output was not flat but still held fairly steady throughout the run.
Lithium-Ion
Here we see much more variation between the different batteries tested. Capacity between the two CBA tests was pretty close, though most lost a bit in the 2A test.
2 of the batteries (Zepath 3600 and EBL 3000) held their voltage perfectly flat until dying, while the EBL 3500 and Coast Zithion batteries did not.
In the Convoy test, we see the same results. Overall runtimes are very good, on the longer end of the scale. (Note the sudden jumps back up to full output displayed after dying for a couple of these. An artefact of the buck conversion and voltage recovery)
DETAILED TEST RESULTS
There is too much data to compile in a neat manner on this site, so I’ve created a public spreadsheet that has everything for detailed comparison. Also included are (affiliate) links to purchase every battery:
SPECIFIC RECOMMENDATIONS:
Alkaline:
- Duracell Powerboost: Best performance alkaline AA
- Costco Kirland Signature: Best value alkaline (note: only available at Costco!)
NiMH:
- Panasonic Eneloop (White): Longest lifespan (2,100 charge cycles), great performance, wide availability, dry chemistry doesn’t leak
- Powerowl NiMH 2800: Best value NiMH, includes a nice charger
I do not recommend high-capacity NiMH generally as they provide worse value, but if you want higher capacity per charge:
- IKEA LADDA 2450: Best value high-capacity NiMH
- Duracell Recharge: Best performance NiMH (in a single charge)
LiFeS2:
- Powerowl Lithium AA: Best performing AA (overall), best value LiFeS2 battery
- Anything else: The rest are basically equivalent.
Lithium-Ion:
- Zepath 3600: Best value lithium-ion, great performance overall.
- The rest are still good, but I don’t think there’s a reason to buy any of them over the Zepath.
CONCLUSION
Overall, I think it’s very clear that there is no reason to buy alkaline batteries - they are disposable and leak, which are obvious issues, but they have abysmal performance in comparison to everything else.
LiFeS2 batteries are really awesome for certain applications, but only for those applications… their high price and disposable nature make them unsuitable for everyday use. I would keep them basically just for emergency backup cells for long-term storage, or maybe for long-term use in super-low drain applications (like a clock or something)
NiMH and lithium-Ion batteries are actually very similar here, NiMH probably have better longevity, but you may run into compatibility issues due to their lower nominal voltage.
Li-ion AAs aren’t exactly revolutionary, and their conversion circuits can lead to some strange behaviour in certain devices. They also require specific chargers (though every battery I’ve seen and used did include a chager, so that shouldn’t be too much of a concern… just don’t try to charge in something not specced for it!)
*Notes
There are some important shortcomings in my tests that need to be noted:
Spoiler
-
I chose 100 lumens as my cutoff point for the Convoy T3 test… this was probably the thing that would cause most people to disagree with me. It was chosen because I felt that specific value offered the best balance between the sharp cutoff of some cells (such as NiMH) and the gradual falloff of others (such as alkalines). Most all batteries fall very quickly at or before hitting this value. Notably, in most electronics this is about the point where usability is really going to drop off. HOWEVER, everybody has different needs… which is why I recommend looking at the graphs for your specific battery choice!
-
Most batteries went through each test multiple times - except for the lithium-primary cells, as they are expensive and I had only four each. I ensured every test was performed with as fresh a battery as possible - for both rechargeable and disposable cells.
-
Two things I am unable to test properly: Shelf life, and Lifespan (actual cycle count and degradation for rechargeables). I am simply taking manufacturer’s words on these.
-
I have no financial incentive to sell you any particular cell, no sponsors are present in this video/post. I do have affiliate links for MOST (not all) batteries on this list. Only one set of batteries was provided for free - the Powerowl NiMH… though the company doesn’t like me because it took over a year to ever bring their batteries up in a video
-
I selected the best value option for each cell in my “Price per cell” calculation (ie, if the 8-pack was the best value, I chose that, if the 12-pack was the best value, I picked that), with the exception of large bulk orders (another reason I recommend using the linked spreadsheet!)
-
I didn’t talk about the 8-pack AmazonBasics Alkaline set, which is an equivalent price per cell to the Kirkland set. Simply put, the Costco batteries were much better, so I don’t find the AmazonBasics competitive even at that bulk price… but they are more easily available so that is worth mentioning.
-
You’ll notice that some of the batteries displayed weird fluctuations in the CBA test. In short, this was repeated and consistent on the cells that did display this behaviour. I do not know why it happens.
THE END
I don’t really have a lot more to say here, it was all said in the video and in the spreadsheet. I genuinely hope this information is valuable to you guys!