Anyone ever try putting a XM-L in one of these?
Just curious, It looks doable with a little work.
I don’t know of a sk8, do you mean sk68?
They (and clones) come with 2 types of lenses.
The familiar 23 mm aspheric and a slightly smaller one with considerably shorter focal distance.
But they’re small lenses, so if you put a big LED behind it, it will project a large square when zoomed in.
Even an XP-G(2) is rather large projection.
They’re designed foran XP-E(2), originally for an XR-E.
They have small die LEDs so they can focus to a small spot.
The smaller lens puts more light out the front but has a larger projection than the 23mm one, but the light intensity per square inch / cm² is similar.
I’m thinking about buying some XP-Cs for small zoomies, they have a really tiny phosphor / die so will be a small projection (tighter beam) but can only handle about 2 Watts, which is enough for the average AA zoomie (with step up driver).
(My best SK68 has a XP-E2 in it, with the smaller lens.)
One of my first ‘good’ lights was a UFsk68 and the tightness of the beam when zoomed is what relegated it to ‘beater’ status. If that was 2x or 3 x in size it would be far more useful to me, even at the cost of some throw distance. If this is what Terry White has in mind I’m interested in seeing his results as otherwise I kind of like that little light.
Phil
See I knew somebody would l know.
I've probably got 10 around here. 1 I take to work every night and they are plenty bright as os.
I've only ever seen the one type of lens.
The XP-E2, what star are you using and did you a swap the driver. Is it worth the change. Should only be 16 or so bucks.
I'm glad you let me know. I have several XM-L2'S left from changing over to the XM-L2'S anxI would have tried.
I do to.. It goes pretty much everywhere with me.People hate when they have their 80 to 100 dollar 150 to 200 lumen Surefires and my tiny light makes them look lile they came from Kmart.
I don't need a ton more from it. But I would love to see somewhere between 400 and 500 lumens. It's 300 out of the box. It just seems doable. But it has to be right.
I have a couple of weeks before I order emitters or boards. Mountain is out of stock of the drivers I need for some others. so I have thinking and planning time maybe even order a few more in case I can work it out.
LOL I just noticed the typo and you even pointed it out to me. I was extremely tired. But yes sk68.
Okay guys I have picked out the emitter that I plan to use in my attempt to raise that bar on a sk68.
Listed here http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_62&product_id=649
Now I need to choose a driver, the size on both is 16mm.
I am probably going to have to use a 17mm driver. A 16mm is proving hard to find.
I just use the stock driver, a one mode step up driver.
I put Eneloops in it and sometimes a (protected!) 14500 Sanyo.
You NEED protected 14500 in these (with a step up driver) otherwise it will totally drain it to 0.8 Volts or lower and then you can say ‘rest in peace’ to your 14500.
I have 3 mode SK68 drivers too, but the PWM ruins the fun…
When you put a XM-L in it, the driver will still only provide about 2 Watts and so you lose intensity.
That’s why i took out the XP-G2 i put in some time ago, and put a XP-E2 in it.
More Watts will get the thing hot and reduce battery time, so i’m okay with the stock driver.
…but in al fairness, it would be cool to have it able to run 5 Watts or more. 
What i also did is increase the head travel, so the lens can move from almost touching the LED dome to full focus zoom in.
With the smaller bulgy lens i have 9mm head travel now.
With the slightly larger but (relatively) flatter lens you would need about 12mm head travel from widest possible flood to zoomed in.
Maybe i’ll take and upload some pictures to show what i grinded and sanded down to get it like this.
Because it’s just cool to be able to illuminate a whole wall, and with moving the head 9 mm project an intense tiny spot. 
See what you think about this.. Adding 3 more 7135's Single mode only.
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=342
But then you can only use 14500 Li-ion batteries.
And to me one mode 8 Watts is not too practical…
I would be a true pocket rocket though. :sunglasses:
I can only use 14500's now lol
Okay, I did the MOD last night and the driver would not work. 2 of the stacked 7135's on the back were just a fraction too close to the edge and it would not seat, when I added a little more pressure to help it those 2 popped right off. And some odd reason they put a spring on the driver even though it is listed as a driver designed for a sk68 which has no spring on the driver, 14500 will not fit.
So I just put my old board back in and it does drive the emitter quite well but, could use a little more current. So I need a little help with something. The picture of the driver below is the same that it is my sk68. Awhile back I moved my positive lead to the pad that you see at the top right. It added a full amp to my current with the Q5 emitter.
When I tried the same with the XP-E2 emitter the current dropped to the point it was just enough to cause the emitter to glow. I moved the lead back to the bottom it's original factory set up and it powered up fine but, I lost that amp I had gained. Still looks good and is noticeably brighter but I would love to have that amp back. Any ideas? I am going to order cells in a few days so I am going to include some much better 14500's in that order which I am sure will help. Just not sure how or why it worked well with one but not the other. I am using a 22awg wire so a little thicker but that is the only difference.
Thanks
