ultrafire sk98 repair.

Hi everyone.
I have an ultrafire sk98 with an latticebright emitter.
The driver has died and i wanted to know what the easiest way to replace and upgrade both driver and emitter.
was looking for similar specs as the convoy s3 if possible and or whats the best drop in for ultrafire. Thank you in advance.

My recommendation:

Thank you for your reply.
It says about adaptor plates ect.
Just on the off chance does any one know what the most cost effective parts are and know where to get them?

Driver: LD-29

Available for little money at FastTech.

Onboard emitter: Nichia 219C at Kaidomain.

Outstanding high-CRI low-Vf emitter allowing longer regulation even with 1S li-ion.

Of course, there are cheaper alternatives… with lesser regulation time (Vf and such), lower CRI light, blinkies (PWM), etc and etc.

Less than $10.58 means MUCH lower overall upgrade quality in my honest opinion. Of course, others may think different, and so you can choose.

Keep in mind that most ’98s have lousy to nonexistent heat-shedding capability. LED star mounted only on a ledge, lousy thermal path, etc., will cook the LED in no time if you push it.

Get an XM-L2 emitter in the color/tint of your choice but on a copper star. Get a 20mm driver (I like the 1.4A or 1.7A 1-mode drivers from Fasttech). Done. On/off, bright, great runtime, won’t fry the LED, no silly modes to get in the way.

Use FET drivers at your own peril.

idontunderstand, that SK98's led shelf is probably one of the few decent ones, thick ring wall underneath the board. No problem transferring the emitter's heat to the body for 2+A driving current on aluminium non-DTP star.

I've received another one of these recently. Now, on the side it reads “L2” instead of “XM-L2”. Gave it a straight emitter swap, though I've not “verified” the stock emitter yet.

Now that I look at it, looks like the LD-29 may not fit as it is… pity.

If your pill is tube hollow… :facepalm:

The Nanjg 105e is I referred to in the other thread is a good drop-in fit with an appropriate output for this light. Mine, built with an xp-g2 is a nice performing light. I like the higher surface brightness of the smaller-died emitter for this smaller sized zoomie host. To improve the heat sinking, you can wire the emitter, then fill the pill behind the pcb with a JB Weld type of epoxy. Mine has had no thermal overheat issues in this configuration.

A copper cap may be used to fix the pill with a proper diameter one, just a tad wider than the hole. Apply some oil over the surfaces, and hammer it!

By the way, the aforementioned SKU4521200 still equips genuine XM-L2 emitter (verified last purchase).

Was looking through FT, had a nice looking zoomie, but pix showed a pretty horrible ringy beam.

This one https://www.fasttech.com/products/1649/10015804/7110901-ultrafire-uf-div05-v-led-diving-flashlight looks quite nice, but what is it, a mule? Shows the emitter through the front, but no reflector nor convex lens.

Actually, I wanted a nice bright mule, or at least fixed-focus zoomie (no batsignal needed nor wanted).

UltraFire UF-DIV05 @ official site

Diving flashlight. Should be nice… because its genuine. The XM-L2 SK98 is there also.

Know what? There's no “UltraFire AT-01” in their website. Soo, I guess its fake.

Well, from now on, before buying UltraFire lets first check the official site, so as to avoid UltraFakes.

Thats the torch i received from FT. has a latticebright v2 in it.

so, so far im looking at;



woud it work and would there be much improvement?

I'd recommend these two:



They're cheap and will get you an extremely nice light output. I think many people here will prefer the Nichia 219 colours over equivalent CREE leds, even the 90CRI ones. It'll be a big improvement over the stock driver and Latticebright LED.

Looks about right, but would need driver without spring and an emitter that’s around 6000k. I’m not having much luck navigating that site.

I filled the pill with some copper and soldering, now it has a 20mm noctigon with XML2 T6 3B and a BLF X6 Driver, it boosts more tan 1100 lumen and heat transfer isn’t bad, all the body gets hot simultaneously

It’s a pleause to use this light inside home with the front lens removed, lots of spill and homogeneous light

idontunderstand, I see no problem with the emitter recently received in my SKU4521200. Looks no different than this one from another torch bought more than a year ago:

As far as authenticity, I mean.

The LD-29 is a super-nice driver, but there's no room in the SK98 pill for it, too tall (untested); would require rearranging its components over a dual sided 20mm base board, like the H1-A and loneoceans' GXB20. Using one of these boost drivers and a 2S (6V) emitter is another -more expensive and with higher output performance- possibility.

The NVSW219BT-V1 (KD, 20mm copper), a high-CRI cool white (≈5700K) emitter. Maybe 500 - 600 lumens at 3A in a flashlight. Better throw and much better colour perception with it.