I bought an UltraFire WF-502B flashlight. It uses 18650 Li-ion cells. I’m surfing the flashlight forums and read that they are good for P60 style mods.
So I took it apart. I noticed that basically there are some basic parts.
1. reflector
2. brass pill (where the emitter LED board on the top and the driver board inside sits)
3. Emitter board
4. Driver board
So I’m thinking of replacing the emitter with this:
Also realize that by doing a simple (and cheap) mod it increases the area where heat can transfer out of the pill to the body thus keeping the emitter/pill cooler
There have been those that have tried different methods and materials…ultimately the tinfoil wrap is the most cost effective to efficiency you can get
That emitter should be fine, but I think the star diameter for those is 16mm not 20mm (you would have to grind down the star to get it to fit)
This emitter would fit better
You need a smaller star that one won’t fit. You need 16mm or smaller.
For that price get yourself this one on a noctigon and you will be very happy you did. This is a super nice tint, High CRI (color rendition) On the all copper noctigon you will maintain your lumens much longer.
Before spending too much time rebuilding an existing ‘working’ drop in, consider ordering an empty pill and reflector for about $2, order a driver and an emitter (on copper) and building one from scratch. If you mess it up, you still have the first one.
This is a member here’s store, Richard (forum name RMM) is a very active member here, before buying an emitter from eBay or some over seas company consider spending the extra $2 on shipping, get your parts in under a week from the US and support a very supportive member here.
He also has empty P60 pills for a couple bucks and drivers in whatever configuration you can think up.
I took a look at the driver board. It has various modes depending on something called “stars”. I like the 2nd star mode. 2nd Star : 5% - 30% - 100% - Strobe - Beacon.
I don’t quite understand how you electronically choose which star you want. Is it something regarding how you wire it or how you order it?
Thanks! I did not know he sold those parts too. I ordered some batteries from him and a Supfire M6 with mod option 1 that I’m still waiting for. I hear that he does a great job, so I am patiently waiting.
Once I get those items, I’ll order the emitter and drivers from him. I hope he realizes that I can be a pretty good customer for him.
On the bottom of the board (battery contact side) there are 4 contact points that are literally star shaped. You solder a little blob from the star you want to the ground ring.
To select a star, you would need to connect it to the outer ring of the driver with a bit of solder. It can be a bit tricky getting the solder to bridge the gap, so some use a small bit of copper wire to help with that. Let me know if you need a picture showing what I mean.
I ordered a CREE XM-L2 T6 4C LED on Noctigon 16mm MCPCB and a QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A LED DRIVER and a CREE XM Series Translucent Insulation Gaskets (XM-L, XM-L2) 15mm OD from Mountain Electronics.
Once I get the parts, I’ll upgrade my light and let you guys know how it went.
Oh yeah, that will definitely do you
A. The T6 4C (T6 being the bin number of the emitter, 4C being the tint [4C is perhaps the most “neutral color” almost sunlight quality won’t be yellow or white and make the colors stand out…but everyones eyes sees the light differently…but many people this is their favorite tint])
B. Noctigon (copper star, direct heat path for dumping the heat, helps keep the LED from having thermal sag and the light produced drooping off due to heat)
C. Qlite custom firmware (very good firmware with good modes
D. 8*7135’s at 3.04A driving the XM-L2 at full power (alot of light, but alot of heat [good thing you got that driver with good lower power settings])
E. gaskets (good for preventing shorts)
Very good purchase…definitely on the way to building you a top notch P60 dropin pill
Look around on the forum…alot of tricks to optimize the build, you will need a good adhesive to put the star on the pill and allow heat to transfer from that copper star to the aluminum pill [you can use 2 part epoxy [JBWeld, Artic Alumina] or RTV silicon [pretty much any sensor safe tube from autozone], then all you have to do is solder the leads from the driver to the star and viola…full power P60 dropin
Don’t forget the above mentioned aluminum foil wrap to help the heat wick from the dropin to the flashlight body
just replace the lens in your 502b with DX 28mm aspheric lens for instant throw 0:)
or go crazy and stick it in 70mm telescope and get awesome throw that rival light 5 times it’s price
