UltraFire WF-502B single mode drop in and reassembly question

Hello, this looks like a great forum, I’m happy to have discovered it! :bigsmile: I searched around a bit and I didn’t see any specific answers to questions about my recent purchase. I ordered a “Fulfilled by Amazon” UltraFire WF-502B 5 mode hoping to be able to mod it down to a single on/off mode. After searching a bit, I’ve discovered that’s not usually the case (please correct me if I’m wrong). So now I’m looking for a single mode drop in. Any suggestions? I saw a link in one post to Kaidomain AMC7135*8+MCU 2800mAh 5-Mode Circuit Board (plus it looks like it doesn’t do single mode high/off), but the link is broken now and search results look sketchy.

The second question I have is for reassembly. I can’t figure out how to put it back together without creating aluminum shavings. The large spring attached to the pill (I think that brass thing is called that) scrapes the heck out of the body edge if it’s put in under pressure. On the other side, if the lens is the last part attached, then the glass retainer clip etches the top of the reflector. So what gives? Is there a good reassembly instruction thread or video?

Thank you in advance

I hope this helps.

Flashlight.

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-wf502b-t6-5mode-led-flashlight-118650-black-p-7640

Dropin. It pays to get on there live chat and ask if they have the item in stock before you order.

http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/generic-cree-t6-1mode-led-dropin-module-42v-max-p-5550

Thank you for the quick reply. The dropin seems to be the sam configuration as the current one (the spring on the bottom), so when I reassemble, is the spring supposed to go “with” the threads, or against? Cause it seems to scrape aluminum.

Welcome to the forum.
There is a way to bypass the mc and make it a single mode.

EDIT
I’m not sure where the scraping issue is, but all the springs I’ve seen seem to go with the threads of the pill.

My google skills=fail. I’ve found a few threads, but nothing definitive. I’m running two Surefire CR123, is that going to smoke my LED? I’m guessing I need to unsolder my driver before I can get any further info on what to do?

The reflector screws fully onto the pill and the spring sits in the groove under the reflector. It does not go over the reflector. You may have to turn the spring when pushing to get it to go over the pill to sit in the groove.

If there is a easy safe way to make a 502B just go On/Off that would be a great mod…

We need someone that actually knows what they are talking about, but from what I understand you solder from the first pin of the MCU to the last pin(or whatever those are connected to). Forcing the driver to run on high(current based on how many and which chips you have).

Again, this could be very wrong and if it is, someone PLEASE correct me.

Lightmalls, single mode U2:

You don't nessesarily even need the spring .

If you run 2 cr123's you need a driver that accepts the extra voltage .If it says 4.2 on the side of the drop in 2 cr123's will burn it up .Most people want to just run an 18650 rechargable since they are cheaper,easier and safer than running 2 batteries .A rechargable battery is a little more than the cost or 3 or 4 batteries .A light with a forward clcky may be all you really need anyway .Or you might want to just buy a light that just always starts on high ....Then it will have extra modes if you want them but if not you can just click on for high and off if you want it to act like a one mode light ..

If it's a light with no memory that always starts oh high it will basicly be a one mode light ..if you add a forward clicky you will almost never see extra modes unless you have a weak thumb while using it as a momentary light

Thank you everyone who has replied. So my biggest concern is using it to briefly light up a spot in the room and quickly shut back off. It’s for home defense. Unfortunately, my 5 mode does have memory because if I switch it to high, the next click (which could be a day in between) will show as medium. Very annoying. So I’m really interested in bypassing the driver. I’ve tried looking around on this board (the google search is only moderately useful, it doesn’t go straight to the sub post) and around the web with what seems to be little luck. Is there another term used for battery only operation? Is this going to work with two CR123 batteries?

This is the worst memory to have on a flashlight. There is more than likely not much you can do about it unless you always turn your light off in the mode before high. It may be best for your use to buy a complete one mode dropin as per the links above.

Term i think your looking for is Direct Drive or unregulated, thus no circuit from the LED to your power supply. I would suggest not attempting direct drive with 2 x R123 as it will be to high for your led. sorry if i missed but what LED are you using? sometimes its

cheaper to purchase a P60 drop-in with the features your looking for at a good price and less problems...

There's plenty of good sources located here on BLF..

Thank you for you’re quick reply. I searched manafront, and found this: http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/cree-r5-single-mode-led-dropin-module-318v-p-6432 is this similar to this? Amazon.com Pardon my ignorance, I know the version I purchased claims 900 lumen, I know it’s stretched. Are the specs on the Cree website also stretched? It looks like it might be this one? http://www.cree.com/led-components-and-modules/products/xlamp/discrete-directional/xlamp-xpg Thanks again for all the help.

So I figured out the problem with the threads. The reflector was caught on the lens retention ring, that’s what was creating the shavings. I’m hoping someone can weigh in on the drop-in.

Its very simple. You just ground the led to the base and it bypasses the board behind it.

I know this a totally different setup but I just used it to explain. All you have to do is make a jumper from the ground on the led to the base of the housing (the only brass colored part on the flashlight). It will be very short (millimeter or two). I did mine with a piece from a resistor as it has to be very thin for the white bezel to go back around the led.