I wanted to measure the current of the Thorfire S70 which I have resistor modded to see how much it was increased.
But I couldn’t get a measurement on the S70, grabbed another light and it also wouldn’t work with that one.
Only the 10A setting isn’t working, the mA setting is still working.
So it appears my (10)A setting is broken, I’ve already checked the fuses and those are intact.
As far as I know, I havent done anything wrong with it… I’ve contacted banggood to see what they have to say.
Anyone familiar with there warranty system (if they have on…)?
Also, anyone have an idea on what could be broken or what happend?
They are build a bit flimsy and the high current might have made an arc on the board and burnt out a resistor or mov? can you see any damage to the board? Maybe try and bridge between where the fuse sits and see if it is the fuse? maybe its only damaged a little?
As for warranty i didn’t know they had a warranty?
I just changed my D80 to the BLF A6 direct drive driver and i measured the amps at the LED because the LED isn’t working and got 25 amps the multi-meter started going crazy but she lived…. i have the UNI-T UT139C
I killed my previous DMM by incorrect use so I really watched what I did every time so I wouldn’t make the same mistake twice.
All the other functies are still working, so luckily I dont have to throw this one away.
Now I dont have a way to measure the current anymore, looks like I might need to buy that Uni-T clamp meter….
Thank god it still works!
Yes it was the fuse…. On the outside it looked like it was new but apparently it wasn’t anymore.
Bypassed it, and it worked! :innocent:
I should have checked that first… But I was really panicking that I had killed another DMM… :zipper_mouth_face:
Mate even if it blows up it could have saved your life so id rather the DMM blow up then me lol! I was going to buy one the same model but i was worried about the input protection in case i wanted to check mains but it looks like a really good DMM with the PC features… if you need a fuse maybe read on EEV blog some people where talking about where to buy fuses from.
Seeing your in Europe you may have the 600v 10amp fuse? The Chinese import version comes with the 250v 10 amp fuse i think…
hmmm maybe just search threads online to find out what fuses can fit. You should be able to get a fast blow ceramic fuse for the meter or at least a better quality one.
hm, maybe I broke mine too.
I cant get any amp reading, only when it just arrived.
Reading this topic it hit me, I had it on picoA instead of A once.
The annoying part is, I need the DMM to check the fuses, they are white, I cant see the inside.
gonna try a bypass.
You should have two sockets? One for 500 milliamp and one for 10 amp or 20 amp? Don’t use the milliamp port unless you are working on low voltage and if you only have two sockets then you will have a 10 amp fuse only. What meter is it?
wow, I can measure A again
removed fuse 1, stuck a bit in there, nothing
placed it back and removed the second, bypassed, nothing
removed them both and YAY could measure!
There ar specs written on them
250mA/250V on 1
10A/250V on the other
On the pcb it says the same
I removed the bypasses and it still easrues V
?!?
well gonna order some fuses.
EDIT
thanks everydaysurvivalgear, my lead stays in the 10A socket as startingpoint.
Ceramic fuses yes that is the white.
What DMM I have?
Oh you are gonna be jealous,
I got a Blue Fluke
Designed for measuring current of Nucear plants, yeah!
Model number G777
just kidding a blue BSIDE ADM02
Yea volts is a separate measurement not all measurement are run through the fuse. It may pass through the current shunt I think. And you may have movs for safety. But most cheap meters are far from safe. Even if you run above 10amp it may not blow for a while it depends in the fuse and how well the meter can handle the power.
I was on 10amp setting and ran 25amp while testing the blf direct driver with HG2 batteries but my fuse didn’t blow id say because of the low voltage. The multimeter was beeping like a mad man at that many amps lol.
Make sure the fuse fits not all fuses are the same size so just because its a 10 amp fuse it may not fit I should say fuses are not universal.
I actually have a love of nuclear science I wanted to be a nuclear engineer but I am against nuclear power so it would have been a waste Hahaha…
Well I ordered 10 glass fast blow fuses for each value
the right size.
Cant wait to get them and test amps! (In Amsterdam this kind of stuff was easy to get, here I would not know where to get it so resorted to AE (about $5 for the 20 fuses) since Conrad (€1,20 for 1 fuse) said 12 days before shipping
No idea
Glass fast blow fuses with the value the old ones have in the same size.
$0,90 for 20
$3,50 for 10 for the other
Its just for flashlight amp reading and now I know where to put the leads thanks for the help.
I’ve found small tubular fuses to be the most troublesome with many glass ones looking good when they aren’t. I’ve seen a few that “metered out” OK for continuity but wouldn’t carry much current. I now test them with a 12V automotive test light and my PS or a car battery so there’s something of a load on them (about 1A with my light). New doesn’t equal good either; cheap ones from Harbor Freight never match their rating if they work at all. I suspect Chinese ones would be similar but no experience there, all I buy now are well-known brands from reputable electronics or automotive dealers. Never had problems with those. I’ve also seen many dirty, rusted, or weak fuse-holders for this type. No problems with good blade-type fuses or holders yet. Not as easy for PCB use but far better for a fuse system!
Helpful hint for glass fuses: for a quick QC test, break out the eye loupe and peer into the ends to see how well soldered the fuse-wire is to the end-caps. Should be shiny, well-flowed, with no voids visible anywhere. If they fail here but test OK use them for non-critical applications or toss them.
thanks for the help.