Wonder if there is enough room to layer the inside with copper to help dissipate heat.
Thank you very much mholdenattorney, the teardown is very informative. 
As long as it is solid pill and having good numbers of threads as shown in the picture I wouldn’t worry too much about heat dissipation.
The lens, pill and focusing are all good, and the other interesting part is the driver. I think I’ve never seen a buck driver that small - at only 16mm. Do you mind to take pictures of the driver?
looks alot like a std c8/t20 pill….
mholdenattorney wrote:
What lens are you considering
Thank you for the report and pictures. If I follow you correctly, this zoomie has some decent heat sinking. I'm thinking about these 2 lens if the stock lens does not satisfy.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1606/10007641/1660906-jgf-dt63-63mm-optical-glass-plano-convex-lens
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1606/10002523/1583701-replacement-67mm-optical-borosilicate-plano
I have ordered the first one already because I have a light I could put it in. It looks similar in design to a 100 mm one I got from FT that gave me 800kcd with an dedomed xml2 at 7 amps. Obviously, it will deliver less throw all else being equal.
Thank you again and congrats on that light. Looks to have a lot of potential.
EDIT I'll report back on focal length and performance when I get the 63mm lens.
EDIT2: That second lens I linked to looks very similar to the stock lens in your pictures.
Driver is 16.6 - 17 mm. Any ideas for boosting? Probably a 17 mm buck driver.
Bad pics replaced below.
Can't make anything out in those pics. Ohaya has a thread about a 17mm buck driver. You may want to compare your driver to the one in that thread.
Maybe if you can provide the model number labelled on the driver and or better pics (does you camera have a "macro" mode). Being a buck driver, there is probably at least one voltage sense resistor. The resistor or resistors will have a pretty low resistance value (<1 ohm). So it or they will start with an "R" which is the equivalent of a decimal point. Lowering the resistance by adding more parallel resistors will increase current if the rest of the circuit has the capability to deliver more current.
Round hotspot on aspherical = not focused properly = pass!
I think I might push the magic button. Is there any reason not to get the single 18650 version? I wouldn’t want to put anything bigger than an xm-l2 in there.
The single 18650 version should be nice too, perhaps better than the T20, but has a much smaller lens than this one .
Nice pictures again, the heat path looks sufficient for a bit more than 3A at the emitter :-)
A clearer photo that shows the components on the driver might help.
I hope simply bridging the sense resistors works with this driver.
If you look at the beamshots posted here, it is square just like the crelant collimator head....
The spot is round just prior to maximum focus or just past.
It is almost as bright. It is brighter as the led is more clearly focused.
You do not have to worry about adjusting led up or down for max throw because the zoom does this. It is the best of both worlds. You can have big flood or small spot with max throw.
Crelant columnater only allows max focus and no flood.
djozz wrote:
Nice pictures again, the heat path looks sufficient for a bit more than 3A at the emitter
Hey djozz,
Are you thinking that there isn't enough contact between the tube and the head? I don't have a clear picture in my mind of how it is built, but it seems that what the contact area lacks in number of threads, it makes up for in circumference. Maybe that is just wishful thinking. The head seems large enough to dissipate a decent amount of heat if the heat can get to it.
Another question for Mr. mholdenattorney if I may bother you again,
I take it the head doesn't slide, but screws up and down. Is that correct? The threads look kind of fine and that it would take a lot of time to go from full flood to zoom.
that would be my guess but i was wondering the same thing.
What I meant to say is that it looks like it can handle more current than it does now. Actually the build around the pill looks like the Uniquefire UF-T20, I run mine at 3A and the output shows no heatsag whatsoever, this tube is wider (26650 tube) so the heatpath will be a bit better than that, I'd say 5+ amps should be no problem (it will get hot, but I like a bit of heat to confirm that something significant is happening in there :evil: )
These are better. I can try again if you need to see something else.
It does show model number.
Can you draw a diagram of how to modify to 4 –5 amps?
Cool. Hope you're right and that the light even proves even better. I never got a T20, but I probably won't resist this one if a good GB is arranged by someone. I just hope it's not soon because I'm in a purchase hangover at the moment.
About the zoom - from the pictures above, it is apparently just as ImA4Wheelr suggests, the head screws up and down on fine threads. I think this would be ideal if you have a favorite zoom position and want to keep it there. If you need to zoom in and out a lot, it will be frustrating. Am I remembering correctly that this is how the old incan Mag-Lites used to work?