I'm not sure if you have seen this thread. If this is the driver you have its a useful how to. Congrats on the mod. This is one of my favorite lights.
It’s like that driver except it’s 5A not 4A. But has the same modes. I am having trouble with the a)which group I’m in b) setting the modes in b so they stay there. I’d really like to be able to set the modes in the Group B for a very low lo, sort of lo med and then 100% for Hi and use that exclusively. But I can’t reliably predict what group it’s going to be in or whether or not the modes will stay the same.
I just took a reading of tail amps, finally, that’s way lower than claimed from the 4A version. Shouldn’t I be getting more amperage from this hotter driver? The strobes seem very very bright compared to what I can get out of the high modes.
I’ll keep playing with and see if I can figure it out. I really do like this light, but might have to get a different driver.
I cant find the post but somewhere in this rabbit warren a member has reported this putting out less than the 5 amps quoted. It may be in the thread I linked to above.
I’m about to make it direct drive. I want it throw. I’ve got smaller lights that make glow worms, don’t need this one for that. Aggravating! 2.3A flashing by as the highest number I’ve seen is nowhere near 5A! I’d be tickled with a steady 3.8A or even a bit less. Is there something on this board I can jump to get rid of all the modes?
I’m tired of this driver already, so I ordered this one http://intl-outdoor.com/qlite-71358-multiple-modes-circuit-board-304a-p-689.html?zenid=7f67e70b5ca220bf25c530efc0fea953 which should be much easier and promises a constant 3.04A on Hi. If I’m reading this right, I can short out the 4th star to the outer rim with a bit of solder to get 20mA - 2% –25% –100%, which is probably what I’ll use. Is this the way it works?
Ah, the learning curve! lol
WOW… Nice driver.
*No high pitch noises !!!
*1st Star : 2% - 25% 100% (Default)”
And this feature:
*Low voltage protection: At 2.9-3V the light will switch to an emergency low mode. At 2.8V the light will automatically cut-off.
NO PWM noise is that right??? 8) I hope so.
Can anyone confirm if that is a 8xAMC without noise. Do they exist??
EDIT: Now there is a thread about the driver here
I wouldn’t care if it did whine, as it might keep mosquitoes away!! 
I just want the mode I need, when I click it, solid without flickers and no police strobe sos stuff blinding me when I gear down between hi and lo. Is that so much to ask?
And just got a 3.38A solid reading off the tail. I put a stronger, stiffer spring on the driver with a copper lead soldered from top to bottom. That seems to let it pull closer to the amperage it’s rated at. It’s actually warming up a little now! Outside, it’s putting light on trees over 300 yds off and I even could see light on a white barn that’s 620 yds away! Mind you it’s not lighting it up, but I could see that light was getting on that building.
Now if I could just master these crazy groups and modes. Group A seems to be on walkabout, the ramping group B is prevalent and difficult to nail down. Group C with it’s blinkies is by far the easiest to access, go figure…but group D with a single Hi mode is running a medium level instead. If I could get group B to run consistent selected modes and send the rest of em on walkabout with A then I’d be happy with it. lol
This light is gonna be the death of me yet! This driver, more precisely. I switched the drivers as recommended on the assumption that the first one was a bad program. The second one is worse! This time I get Group A with Hi-Med-Lo, I can even, sometimes, get group B and get the ramping to show up…but I can’t set any mode when it’s ramping, if I soft click it it starts over if I hard click it I get Group A again. No strobe modes for a Group C at all and no Group D with only Hi.
Testing amperage I got 2.2A on Hi, 1.35A on Med and ya’ll will love this one .01A on lo!! That’s the default Group A. When the ramping starts in Group B, the output is so lo you can’t see any light on the floor in a dim room. It comes on in that moonglow mode and you have to soft-click to get the ramping started but can’t set anything.
Aggravation Squared.
If that new “noiseless” Nanjg 105C driver coming from the same place (Intl-outdoor) is anything like this, I’m going to be very disappointed! Will end up hard wiring the HD2010 for Direct Drive.
I got 2 of those new Nanjg's and modded a new XinTD with one - looks good, re-programmed it fine, but had to set the USB dongle to 5 volts, not 3.3 volts like I do all the other Nanjg's at - strange, but then it worked well.
For the HD 2010, I used a KD V2 at 4.1A, now upgrading to a Nanjg at 4.2A -- no time to complete it yet. Been finding the Nanjg's to be more reliable, better solder points for the LED wires too when using heavier wires. I'm really down on the KD V2's lately, stuck with 4 of them, re-progamming of the Nanjg's is a great plus.
Really does look like this, hardly any output at all. Less than a 3mm led on a button cell.
I took the HD2010 with me to take out the trash. Our driveway is a tenth of a mile long. With this new driver pulling the lower amperage at the tail, it’s brighter and throws further than the old one! I can easily see trees at the back of our place 370 yds away, and the barn that has flags flying is easily identifiable if not “lit up” at 617 yds. Standing at the road in our driveway, I can see the mailbox of the 2nd neighbor 632 yds off. Brighter easily than the double high beams of a car. And this is in the Group A mode that is up when the light comes on. One click, hi at a measured 2.2A. I don’t get it. My DMM must be horribly wrong.
It’s impressive, and once again it’s my longest thrower. I have to be careful where I shine it, as it now does a pretty good job lighting up a white house that’s just over 400 yds away. I’m betting that if I had binoculars I could see someone’s face in the window with this light shining over there (which would mean I’m probably in trouble if that were to happen)
Bottom line here is, with this second driver…working properly or not…I have a useable Hi Med Lo configuration that I can live with and not worry about modes that arent there or ramping that’s not settable.
So do I now add the chips to the incoming driver and go for more?
The HD 2010 is one awesome light! It's like a BTU Shocker before it took the steroids! It's plain, simple, ugly?, but what a hunk of metal, and when you tweak the core parts, look out! 4.2A should be no problem, and an XM-L2/SinkPAD at 4.5A? Just check the Match graphs! I'm liking the Small Sun T08 a little more right now for high amp XM-L2 SinkPAD builds because of the 2 cell parallel setup, and I'm actually getting a little higher throw numbers (101 kcd vs 91 kcd).
I got the new driver today, soldered 4 chips to the backside and put the light back together. Click, nada. Don’t know if I messed something up or just wasn’t getting good ground. The stacked chips prevented the retaining ring from going in so I used solder as a ring holding into the threads. It was pretty snug, but didn’t work. So I went to the second driver and set out to install it instead.
I’ve now recessed the ledge that the driver sits on in the HD2010 pill and now the retainer ring sets on top of the chips on the spring side of the board. Can’t add chips there. I think I can add 2 chips on the inside, gonna check into that.
For now, success with the new driver! Nice Lo, very useable Med with a great Hi, no whiny mosquito sounds….none, zilch, silencio! Happiness!
This Nanjg 105C is pulling 2.87A at the tail, a definite improvement even with no chips added. And the reliability of the modes is certainly worth the hassle!
The two military trailers in the beamshot below are pretty dang far back! The second one, where the reflector is shining, is 465 yds! The trees behind the trailers are 550 yds from the hayloft I was in. Not too shabby! The camera settings mimicked what I could see. Canon G1X zoomed to 112mm 0.6 sec f/5.8 at 1250 ISO. A scope on a rifle would pretty easily allow a shot at a coyote at this 450+ yds. So do I try to add 2 chips or just say good and quit?
What driver did you use to modify?
The new 3A Nanjg 105c at intl-outdoor.com that is silent. This one: http://intl-outdoor.com/qlite-71358-multiple-modes-circuit-board-304a-p-689.html
Very nice driver indeed. Perhaps I need more, just to have for when I get the modding bug again lol
That driver standard should be pushing around 3 amps at the tailcap without adding any chips. There could be three things wrong here.
1. Poor soldering damaging the existing chips which I am an expert at.
2. The DMM is giving wrong readings.
3. A crook connection somewhere.
4. Poor or low voltage batteries.
5. And a few more not so obvious.
If the light is performing ok I would suggest n/o 2.
After getting nothing from the driver that I modified, I installed a second one in stock form. This one reads 2.87A at the tail and throws over 450yds. I’m pleased with it’s performance, nice modes, reliable, dead silent.
Edit: I took some advise from Ouchyfoot and hooked up a spare XP-G2 emitter that’s on a copper star to the modified driver using an 14500 cell. Works Brilliantly! Blinded me for several minutes, that little XP-G2 at 4A+ is intense! The copper star is on a copper bar, but even then I didn’t run it more than a couple seconds as I ran it through the modes to make sure it was in working order. So, I must not have had a good ground when I installed it in the light. Perhaps a trip to the Hardware Store for some copper tubing/pipe/fittings is in order to make an adapter for this driver to fit into the pill.
You've seem Kramer's P60 pill mod to fit a driver in the HD 2010, right? Think it's earlier in this thread.
EDIT - here it is. You should be able to get a P60 pill from Illumination Supply if you don't want to wait long for it.
-Garry
That looks nice, and it works, but I think I’ll go a different route and put copper over the outside of the pill for something to solder ground to. I’ve already recessed the inside of the pill such that the top-stacked chip sits flush so I just need a way to make ground. There’s plenty of room between the outer wall of the pill driver area and the battery tube to do a lot of things so I’ll see if I can get any luck finding a piece of copper tubing to press fit onto there.
Thinking back, it might be that one of the legs of a chip on the underside of the board may have been contacting the pill…those chips are very close to the edge of the board and an outer leg could easily have been sitting on the ledge of the pill and grounding out. I say this because after it didn’t work I soldered a wire to the edge of the board up top and ran it over with a tinned end on it so that the battery tube would press it down against the broader threaded pill. So that should have solved a ground issue but the light still wouldn’t work. Which makes me believe there may well have been a short underneath. If need be, I’ll grind off the entire ledge and create a non-conductive support for the pill then use the top side for ground. I have some G10 material that’s 3/4” thick I can drill it and then shape it into a tube if I can’t find some pvc or something that would work. I also have some 1” nylon spacers that will probably do the job, but they’re only a half inch in diameter. Probably be easiest to make one of the nylon spacers work. But make something work I shall!