You've seem Kramer's P60 pill mod to fit a driver in the HD 2010, right? Think it's earlier in this thread.
EDIT - here it is. You should be able to get a P60 pill from Illumination Supply if you don't want to wait long for it.
-Garry
That looks nice, and it works, but I think I’ll go a different route and put copper over the outside of the pill for something to solder ground to. I’ve already recessed the inside of the pill such that the top-stacked chip sits flush so I just need a way to make ground. There’s plenty of room between the outer wall of the pill driver area and the battery tube to do a lot of things so I’ll see if I can get any luck finding a piece of copper tubing to press fit onto there.
Thinking back, it might be that one of the legs of a chip on the underside of the board may have been contacting the pill…those chips are very close to the edge of the board and an outer leg could easily have been sitting on the ledge of the pill and grounding out. I say this because after it didn’t work I soldered a wire to the edge of the board up top and ran it over with a tinned end on it so that the battery tube would press it down against the broader threaded pill. So that should have solved a ground issue but the light still wouldn’t work. Which makes me believe there may well have been a short underneath. If need be, I’ll grind off the entire ledge and create a non-conductive support for the pill then use the top side for ground. I have some G10 material that’s 3/4” thick I can drill it and then shape it into a tube if I can’t find some pvc or something that would work. I also have some 1” nylon spacers that will probably do the job, but they’re only a half inch in diameter. Probably be easiest to make one of the nylon spacers work. But make something work I shall! 
The P60 method works solid as a rock, perfect mount, easy to make fit, plenty of room to clear stacked chips, but takes some dremel work. Been using P60 pills in a few lights now, no regrets - several UF-V3's, HD 2010, UF-F15, 7G9, and more can't think of, every one with stacked chips. Never had a grounding problem but the back pin on a 7135 pin is ground so doesn't matter if it makes contact. I'm keeping a dozen or so handy now, wish I could get them in copper though...
If someone does this and finds they need to grind the reflector, be careful. The reflector is thinner than it appears in the spot you will need to grind. I ground the back reflector to get the LED in focus and to clear the wires connected to the Sinkpad. I ended up grinding two slots through the polished side. Luckily, the slots are low enough to barely impact the beam.
In retrospect. I wish I has tried to solder the wires as close to the edge of the Sinkpad as possible instead for flat and spread out. I think the added height of the wires would have been ok further out. It’s tough because you have to file down the sinkpad to fit into the recession in the pill. So the pads are close to touching the pill already.
On this driver there are 2 pads directly centered on opposite sides which are fine, the single ground is indeed on the ground ring. But one quarter turn on the board and there’s 2 chips either side of center line, the outer lead of the 3 is also just about on top of the ground ring…it’s not touching of course but it’s very close. Not sure why they make a 17mm board if they can’t keep the chips further from the edge.
Dale - Your referencing the QLITE driver from IOS? If so, I can't follow this - from the photos of the driver on IOS, I don't see what your referring to.
Sorry, should know better than going by memory as bad as mine is. The important pins are all to the inside, not likely to get a short that way huh? So why didn’t it work when I soldered a wire to the outer ground ring and had the battery tube make contact with it? Works now, out of the light. I’ll have to give it another go, definately.
Thanks for catching that Tom, just going a little crazy over here that’s all. 
K - thought I was goin crazy... again 
.
I just got one of these from tmart for 31.39 and I gotta admit, it is a nice thower. I mostly buy flooders but got this one based on this thread and am not disappointed. It throws a lot of light a long way for not too much money. It throws noticeably more light on trees down the street than the rayovac indestructable at half its price. It is a good light if you want to see what’s down the way and don’t care too much what is happening up close. That and it does not get hot when pumping out that much light, unlike many of the smaller lights I own.
I dropped my HD2010 from about 3 feet onto thick carpet. Now, it comes on real dim, like an XP-E. Been busy with other lights so . . .
Sorry if I'm off-topic but, haven't thought about my 2010 for a while.
dim2010Foy
Just did a HD 2010 mod - XM-L2 U2 1C/SinkPAD, 4.2A Nanjg and got in the 1,300's for lumens, and 99 kcd - best throw # yet I've gotten on a HD 2010, no de-doming. This FF version had a black centering ring around the LED which I re-used, then carefully sanded down the back of the reflector to get a better seat and clear the 22 gauge wires. Now it's in the ballpark (very close) to my Small Sun T08 whcih makes sense.
I'm really liking the KK ICR 4200's in this light (from FFL or CNQ).
You got 1300lm at 4.2A,isn’t that unrealistically high number,because you need about 1600lm generated by led itself to get 1300lm after reflector+glass losses? Match’s test show “only” about 1400lm at 4.2A,but this is with huge heatsink,so in flashlight this would be even worse,an extra 10-15% drop?
Hi,
Where’s the best place to get this light currently, in the U.S. Is it still Tmart.com? Also, it looks like there are like at least 4 HD2010 lights on Tmart.com, all different prices. Which is the best?
Hard to say with accuracy since it's been a while but I'd say this for gray or this for black. The Tangsfire versions seem under powered compared to the Ultrafire version but these two don't have any markings. I'd still take a chance on one of them though.
Don't get your hopes up too high though. Most HD2010's people have been getting lately have been badly under-driven. You can pretty much count on a driver swap which isn't real easy on this light (see driver mods in this thread and others).
-Garry
Match's #'s are with an XM-L2 U2/SinkPAD combo and shows about 1,425 at 4.2A. I'm not using glass - using a UCL/p lens. The huge heatsink doesn't make much of a difference - that was pointed out in the thread, proving the most critical paths are the closest to the LED, so the SinkPAD closes the gap. The lightbox/meter setup I'm using is pretty accurate, maybe a little under reporting lumens compared to others that tested the same flashlight (actually the same unit). I've gotten in the 1,300's on HD 2010 (few) and a Small Sun T08, and at or close by a Crelant 7G9 and resistor mod'ed TN31. SinkPAD's at high amps make a hugh difference. I think to be arounf 100 lumens below Match's results is within reason, if you folloe the postings in Match's thread carefully. I've done several things to reduce resistance through the paths (22 gauge silver coaetd wire, springs wired with solder wick copper, etc.).
I'm getting good at the driver swaps in a HD 2010 - practice makes perfect . Actually using press-fit brass rings now, bought from FT - dremel sand down the threads in the pill, press fit the ring in - done! Perfect mount for a 17 mm Nanjg. I got pics to post - hope can get to that this eve.
I'd appreciate those pics! One of these days I'll get back around to this! Probably is as I put it off technology gets better and better (first it was availability of the U3, then sinkpads, next . . .?).
-Garry
Between my favorite C8 and the HD 2010, I'm up to the 3rd round of mods in 6 months! I recall when I ordered a couple of U2's and before they arrived, the U3's became available - got stuck with U2's, later experimented with de-doming on them...
I have the TangsFire grey version from Tmart, and it wasn’t underpowered. In stock form, I had to avoid 26650 cells. It was almost 5A IIRC on a fresh 18650.
I also have the (fromerly known as) UltraFire version from Tmart, which provided similar drive currents.
Based on the build and beam quality I prefer the TangsFire version. Of course, YMMV.