Thanks Martin! The tool arrived.
Thanks Martin! The tool arrived.
TimMc, just a warning do not use tools like this to force glued in pills out. They have enough leverage to do it but the problem is most of the time the driver will break loose from the pill before the pill breaks loose from the body. You have to heat the body up real good to loosen the glue/loctite/whatever and then try with moderate pressure.
The driver and MCPCB are “Keyed” to the pill…
I speak from experience with Lumintop and UltraTac drivers exactly like this. Not all of them sit deep enough in the pill to keep from breaking loose. At best you have to re-glue it at worst you rip off a driver wire and hope a pad/resistor doesn’t come with it.
edit; could be more of the AAA ones instead of AA size to have this issue but I still haven’t learned my lesson and usually just brute force glue/loctite when I should have weakened it first. YMMV.
I managed to pop the board and scratch it with tweezers. I think I overtightened it by turning it left. The Camera Lens tool helped undo that mistake when turning right.
Thanks for the warning! It might be worse if the pill has glue.
I haven’t managed to crack open a C01S head with red Loctite. I melted it…
I just received my MC13 yesterday.
Took it out last night and it is awesome. I’m really liking it!
Can any one tell me why this is a bad idea?
(Video is only about a minute)
(Edit Dec 31 2020) - I decided to unwrap the Olight battery and found inside a LGGBMH11865
The lights that use this type of battery usually have a button type contact on the front end so that shorting isn’t a problem. The spring will compress and twist and could defeat your insulator. Also, that battery is 4.5A max (I guess, quick googlefu) which is right around what the MC13 probably draws. The E14 will draw even more so don’t even try that.
It’s not the worst idea ever since you did secure it some and it’s a protected battery but it’s still a poor idea.
You can see in the video that the original battery is also a button top though.
Right, but presumably there is a more secure shrink wrap and protection board in-between being able to short negative and positive together. The button top if not the problem it’s having negative and positive right next to each other under a flexing spring and whatever bootleg tape you used. If anything a bigger button top would help create some separation and be better.
Let’s assume that my plastic ring and tape rig holds up perfectly,
Am I risking damage to either the battery or flashlight? By using an “improper battery”
I don’t know anything about batteries or electricity unfortunately.
I just know that the Manker website says
Kindly note: If you select ’yes’ under item option ’ with 18650 tube’, you can also use 18650 battery in your hand. We highly recommend you to buy high quality high discharge 18650 battery
And that my Olight battery is an 18650 “protected cell” and presumably “high quality”
I know the Manker 18350 that the flashlight comes with is “10A” but again, I don’t really know what that means.
My Olight battery doesn’t say what “A” it is. Just that its 3.6V (I don’t know what that means lol)
(I know A stands for Amperage, and V stands for Volts. But that doesn’t mean anything to me.)
You asked me to tell you why it’s bad but what you really wanted is permission to keep doing it.
If you want to monitor your ghetto battery mod every time you charge it or remove the tail cap or drop the light and assume some additional risk it’s probably fine. Also, you wont want to just swap that tube onto the E14 because it uses more “A”s.
tl;dr order a better battery and use your rig until it arrives. If you stick around here for a few months and get the bug you will need additional and better batteries to enjoy yourself anyway.
I just want to make sure I don’t harm my flashlight or battery because I cant afford to replace the light or buy a new battery.
I bought the Manker MC13 with the 18650 tube assuming I could use my Olight battery in it.
It was already in the mail before it was brought to my attention some reasons I wouldn’t be able to.
I feel my rig solves those reasons.
But it doesn’t tell me whether or not I’m going to harm anything.
I’m worried the ratings are possibly not compatible in some way I don’t understand being uneducated in electricity…
I’m worried the ratings are possibly not compatible in some way that can harm either the battery or the flashlight.
Like your saying I could with the MC14 III (Which I didn’t get btw)
I’m not trying to buy and own a ton of flashlights, I’ve just come to rely on a couple as EDC I refuse to live without, and trying to learn what I need to to own and operate them correctly, and save money where it doesn’t need to be spent.
Been playing with my combo for over a week and all i can say is:
Thank you Martin and Manker for this deal!
Combo is awesome, UI is one of the easiest and good designed for EDC style, emitters are easily accessed for swap, mod or whatever. Just great.
Hi, guys. Are there any sole MC13 codes available? I’m conscious I have completely missed this deal!
They should be able to help you I see that the combo is still on the manker website.
if you are interested send a mail to firstname.lastname@example.org
I love it!The best UI (with Anduril) i’ve seen in long time.
Did some upgrade though...
E14III got Nichia 219B sw45k and MC13 got Turbo boost with some GITD love
Anyone tried removing NTC from E14III driver? Stepdown to 300lumens for this copper quad is a bit too much :(
speaking of stepdown…
I put in a 3.6V Aspire 18350, click to turbo and after a few seconds I assume LVP kicks in and it just shuts the light off. No step down I guess. This is a pretty high drain cell too so I imagine a lower drain cell would do this even sooner.