Purchased… Better be good 
hopefully real XML2 and brighter than the 3xml
Would love a comparison between the CNQG 3x XML U2 black version (apparantly 2200 OTF)
why get this 4xml2 king when theres a 6xml2 available now. theres a thread on this. cant seem to find it though….i just seen it yesterday too.
think it was sold on ebay
FastTech has them for $42
6XL2 6*Cree XM-L2 T6 3-Mode 4200LM LED Flashlight
SRK 6xCree Golden $34.43 (After Code “WALLBUYSALLMAGIC”):
SRK 6xCree Black $34.43 (After Code “WALLBUYSALLMAGIC”):
Edit: These are XML
I thought I read in that thread, that the conclusion was that the 4X xml was better than the 6X xml. Or at least that’s the way I saw it.
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It took awhile but I finally found that thread: SkyRay 6-XM-L - Battle Of The Kings - BeamShot Image updates! post #25 for beam shoots.
There are several factors you need to consider when just stuffing more and more emitters in a compact flashlight like this. For starters, there is only a small area where heat can be dissipated, therefore if the 6xXML were driven as hard as the 3 or 4xml lights, it would overheat in a matter of minutes. Another aspect is that you have smaller reflectors with more emitters in the same space, hence having less throw. IMHO, 4XML is as many as you’d want to go so the emitters can be driven decently without turning the torch into a hot coal.
Unfortunately, when I went to buy the King from FF (CNQG), the XML2 was out of stock, so I just got the standard XML T6. It should be here in the next week, but this XML2 flashlight will take a while since I just purchased it. I have little doubts it will be an easy 600-800lm brighter. I will do comparison beamshots when I get them both.
My real curiosity is the quality of this host in comparison to the ‘Real Thing’ at Fancy Flashlights… http://www.fancyflashlights.com/goods.php?id=442
Silver button" or "Red button "can be customized,choose color,
Can anyone that has purchased post their impressions on this light? Good driver? Does it heat up quickly? Much brighter than 3xXML Kings? How about the tint?
Cheers
Mine was waiting for me When I got back in town Tuesday after 23 days. Fast shipping, no damage, in white box and well padded with bubble wrap.
Brighter than my 3-T6 king? Not having both side by side and without a meter, I can not tell. Not what people want to hear. The 3-T6 failed 25 days prior so my lumen snapshot memory is a joke. A lot of posts say the difference between 1k lumen and 2k lumen is hard to tell unless side by side then not so much? Work had thrown the monkey wrench into my last second testing plans before ordering this light.
All O-rings greased but lens dirty. All was easy to disassemble except getting the driver board and reflector out. All back screws in straight unlike my Amazon King. Driver board and reflector still not removed due to me big chicken and not having replacement parts ready to go. I tried moderate force with plastic rod through switch hole but no luck getting the drive board to pop out.
The side button is loose, rattles, and will tend to cock sideways. I have used an O-ring to seal the outer ring against the switch board so any water will only get to top of switch board. I would like to hear of any switch button mods to make this a better water proof camping light.
Guest are in town so will post tail cap current at later date. This light is cooler running than my old 3 led t-6 after 15 minutes. However from memory this light has a faint light ring and edges have a more pronounced scalloped look due to reflector. The LEDs look well centered. It is very floody and what I want in a camping/trail light. The spacing is better on this light from high to a lower low from previous 3-T6. I like it.
I got time to do some current measurements with my Fluke 187. Parasitic current is 206 uA. Hi = 5 A, even, on fresh charge. Low = 700 mA.
I notice that the “real” 3 LED driver boards have the 3 large holes to accommodate the 3 large Toroidal coils? Our driver should look like this, not the one shown from Willbuying as the holes look different. SkyRay King XM-L2. Need driver Advice
So may King threads, so many variations. Looking forward to your beamshots.
Thanks! Those readings aren’t just too bad, but could be much better. I have the original fancy flashlight three XML king, and have tried and tried to get the tail Off but to no avail. I tried measuring the current just by putting one multimeter prong on the battery and the other prong on the contact on the driver and I measured 4.3amps at best . Not too sure how accurate this is but I would love to do a current measurement with the tailcap Off but can’t get it undone.
Well after all 5 A is going to produce more light than mine but not by very much at a guess. I wonder if I could do a resistor mod on this driver board to feed 2a+ to each led.
If you pad a vice with leather/plastic and or use one or two strap wrenches, you could get the end cap off. I will be building a 4 battery cradle to allow better hands free measurements. I’m also on the look out for a 10+ amp bench supply with accurate meters on the cheap:)
I did use copper braid to top of springs and laid out braid direct to each screw point on my light. It looks good but no visible difference in light output; so I do feel better about the host quality which is better than my returned Amazon light other than the light button fit and finish.
Need to research the linear drivers and source the resister packs and spare driver boards as I’m an expert in smoke on bad days; so I need to go thru the threads and make notes;) I’ll post pictures of my board when I’m able to get it free in one working piece. When I look at the mounting method, glue, I think of evil things to do to engineers. A simple O-ring keeper would cost billions?
Looking forward to you resistor mods.
Driver board, 2 channels used. Double click should link back to full size.
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LED Centering
Heat Sink, the Pill?
2nd shot of Driver
Thanks for posting the pics of the driver. This model looks to be one of the better built variants. Replacing the wires with thicker gauge wire, adding thermal epoxy and copper braid to the springs would pump up the output a bit, yes?
Increase Output? Sure, but you probably looking at an increase of only a few percent, hardly noticable. Thermal paste could let heat away from LEDs faster. These Leds need 2a+ each!
Great pics! Thanks, but shame I’m not a wiz with circuitry. 
Good point, Pchri12. I was thinking that doing those things would decrease resistance and be a good starting point before doing a resister mod. Beef it up before souping it up to churn up 3+ amps per emitter. Winter is coming gotta keep the hands warm but don’t want to cook the light.
Illuminaria, are there toroids on the other side of that driver?