Mine was waiting for me When I got back in town Tuesday after 23 days. Fast shipping, no damage, in white box and well padded with bubble wrap.
Brighter than my 3-T6 king? Not having both side by side and without a meter, I can not tell. Not what people want to hear. The 3-T6 failed 25 days prior so my lumen snapshot memory is a joke. A lot of posts say the difference between 1k lumen and 2k lumen is hard to tell unless side by side then not so much? Work had thrown the monkey wrench into my last second testing plans before ordering this light.
All O-rings greased but lens dirty. All was easy to disassemble except getting the driver board and reflector out. All back screws in straight unlike my Amazon King. Driver board and reflector still not removed due to me big chicken and not having replacement parts ready to go. I tried moderate force with plastic rod through switch hole but no luck getting the drive board to pop out.
The side button is loose, rattles, and will tend to cock sideways. I have used an O-ring to seal the outer ring against the switch board so any water will only get to top of switch board. I would like to hear of any switch button mods to make this a better water proof camping light.
Guest are in town so will post tail cap current at later date. This light is cooler running than my old 3 led t-6 after 15 minutes. However from memory this light has a faint light ring and edges have a more pronounced scalloped look due to reflector. The LEDs look well centered. It is very floody and what I want in a camping/trail light. The spacing is better on this light from high to a lower low from previous 3-T6. I like it.
I got time to do some current measurements with my Fluke 187. Parasitic current is 206 uA. Hi = 5 A, even, on fresh charge. Low = 700 mA.
I notice that the “real” 3 LED driver boards have the 3 large holes to accommodate the 3 large Toroidal coils? Our driver should look like this, not the one shown from Willbuying as the holes look different. SkyRay King XM-L2. Need driver Advice
So may King threads, so many variations. Looking forward to your beamshots.
Thanks! Those readings aren’t just too bad, but could be much better. I have the original fancy flashlight three XML king, and have tried and tried to get the tail Off but to no avail. I tried measuring the current just by putting one multimeter prong on the battery and the other prong on the contact on the driver and I measured 4.3amps at best . Not too sure how accurate this is but I would love to do a current measurement with the tailcap Off but can’t get it undone.
Well after all 5 A is going to produce more light than mine but not by very much at a guess. I wonder if I could do a resistor mod on this driver board to feed 2a+ to each led.
If you pad a vice with leather/plastic and or use one or two strap wrenches, you could get the end cap off. I will be building a 4 battery cradle to allow better hands free measurements. I’m also on the look out for a 10+ amp bench supply with accurate meters on the cheap:)
I did use copper braid to top of springs and laid out braid direct to each screw point on my light. It looks good but no visible difference in light output; so I do feel better about the host quality which is better than my returned Amazon light other than the light button fit and finish.
Need to research the linear drivers and source the resister packs and spare driver boards as I’m an expert in smoke on bad days; so I need to go thru the threads and make notes;) I’ll post pictures of my board when I’m able to get it free in one working piece. When I look at the mounting method, glue, I think of evil things to do to engineers. A simple O-ring keeper would cost billions?
Thanks for posting the pics of the driver. This model looks to be one of the better built variants. Replacing the wires with thicker gauge wire, adding thermal epoxy and copper braid to the springs would pump up the output a bit, yes?
Increase Output? Sure, but you probably looking at an increase of only a few percent, hardly noticable. Thermal paste could let heat away from LEDs faster. These Leds need 2a+ each!
Good point, Pchri12. I was thinking that doing those things would decrease resistance and be a good starting point before doing a resister mod. Beef it up before souping it up to churn up 3+ amps per emitter. Winter is coming gotta keep the hands warm but don’t want to cook the light.
Illuminaria, are there toroids on the other side of that driver?
I’ve ordered from them about 3 times in the last two months, and aside from not having one of those items, they shipped fast and got here as fast as I could expect.
No, I was referring to the old 3 led driver. I have the newer linear(?) FET driver. This post, SkyRay King XM-L2. Need driver Advice, refers to this light. The owner was not happy with the output. I wish he could post some current readings to compare with mine posted in this thread. I gather from that post that this driver is near max but I have not a clue at this time. The Sony laptop pulls I’m using can discharge 3 amp each in my hobby charger but the most read is 5 amps with this linear driver. A driver swap may be in order but hope someone with a light meter can measure it to see if the 3k lumens is real. I think the LED color is warmer from my old SRK. We have to wait on beam shots from Pchri12 or other.
Sorry, Illuminaria if I’m slow to comprehend, I was up late. You are saying that this 4 XML version of the prolific SRK variant is using FET’s instead of toroids for current? And it has a cooler kelvin? I kinda wish that they would just sell a blank host that we could load up as we see fit.
Thanks for the link, it looks like I was assuming things that I did not understand. I assumed that I would be able to clean up the electric and thermal paths and alter the resistors, plug in some samsung 20R’s and get 4000 lumens total. Maybe if I swapped the emitters onto copper pads and jumpered the resistor stacks like Comfychair discussed. Or is the 3 emitter the way to go. Suggestions anyone?
I may be wrong but I would think you couldn’t get 4000lumens out of this thing without driving 3.5a per led, considering all the losses. I think 3500lm would be a very healthy expectation once a resistor mod has been done. Optimising the thermal paths would just allow the output to stay higher for longer If I understand correctly. Nonetheless if someone could get 3000-3500lm output I would be thrilled!
Just a little off topic, while we wait for my skyray king to come from Will buying, why not have a peep at the comparison shots of the fancy flashlight XML T6 Skyray king, vs my beast driver modded Trustfire X100 5500lm+.
Yes, I use Trustfire Flames Protected 26650 LIon cells. The large head and fin design provides an excellent candidate to punch out so much power. Love the skyray king, but for a flashlight, the brightness of this thing is madness. Will wow anyone I don’t want to make you poorer or anything, but This flashlight is built ridiculously solid, and a must have. The only bad thing is it will make all the rest of the collection drop a lot in brightness
I have received the new King. Initial impression: built decently, not quite as nice as the original from Fancy Flashlights, but for the price, with XM-L2 emitters, quality is more than acceptable. Its day time but used it in a dark room and immediately noticed the cooler bin of the new emmitters, I like. I then took some 1/1600 shots in comparison to my other 3xXML T6, and the spill on the new one is brighter, but perhaps a tad less throw, but hotspot is larger. I then compared the power its punching out by feeling the heat emmited from the front, and can confidently say there is more heat there = brighter. Will post beamshots later.
So i decided to get this XM-L2 version, and my brother got the XM-L2 version of the 6-emitter SRK. the XM-L2 versions seem to be a hint brighter than the T6 versions of the 3-emitter, 4-emitter, and 6-emitter Kings, but the Skyray Kung XM-L T6 i have is still very noticably brighter, with more throw AND floodier. I must have been lucky to get a really good stock hard-driven Kung. ( also my Kung is pulling oddly high amps at the tail cap, just under 10 amps.
Do you guys have any good tips where (and WHAT) SRK to get?
Decent build quality and high power with NW tint would be nice. Kung, orig. SRK, 3, 4 or 6 emitters??
