Upgraded Thorfire s70s

I’m kinda glad I didn’t buy this, as the UI is kinda funky with how the tailswitch works, and the modes are way too close together. The L6 mode spacing is way better IMO.

Well, high and turbo are close together. That might be okay because you could use high instead of turbo and get less heat and longer battery life while it’s almost as bright. Not bad. The other modes are a little closer because there are 5 total instead of 4.

When I heard the new model had a stand by mode, I thought it was an option of some kind, but it seems it’s an integral part of the firmware and is mandatory.

I guess it’s like an old style maglite now, you hold it behind the head and press the side switch for on/off. I like that. The one difference is that you have to arm the device with the rear switch first.

And it was only $37 for a 4000 lumen XHP70 light with a proven build quality :+1:
Can”t wait for mine to turn up which at the moment is somewhere in my country so can”t be long to go now :slight_smile:

“2017-03-10 09:13:00 【8】Arrival at Processing Center (Country code: GB)”

I updated the mode spacing numbers on the S70s to now include the moonlight mode.

Is 200 and 1000 lumens “tight” spacing?

Didn’t you cancel your S70s order?

Where/how did you get the video?
Where/how did you get the lux numbers for S70s?

High to turbo seems quite close in my opinion.

I canceled my order and got a full refund.

Did you watch the video? It was made by a member of this forum named zeremefico.
Here is his thread.

I hope that answers all your questions.

Mention of Low and Mid turns to mention of spacing of High and Turbo!

The spec of Turbo is 3960 lumens and 1800 lumens for High. What should be the lumens for High for it not quite close to Turbo in your august opinion?

My light has yet to ship, ordered 2-25.

Just checked the tracking number on mine and it was delivered to someone in Seattle today. That’s kind of a problem since I live in Kansas. :person_facepalming:

I can’t believe I have to explain this in more detail, but I will try. Okay here goes.

When I was watching zeremefico’s video of him cycling through the levels of the S70s on his homemade lumens meter (before I even saw him cycle through the L6) I saw the 255 then 330 and by brain went “Wow, that is close”. Then I saw his numbers for the L6 and that reinforced my initial thought/opinion.

Now look at the numbers of both lights side by side. The S70s and L6 have about the same brightness on its lowest and highest levels, but the S70s has 5 levels compared to the L6’s 4 levels.

So for a 3rd time I think the levels on the S70s are tighter, because in theory, they should be.

S70s – 1, 28, 90, 255, 330
L6 – 2, 15, 124, 325? (hard to see)

Look closely and everyone should see what I mean.
28 to 90 is closer/tighter
90 to 255 is closer/tighter
255 to 330 is closer/tighter

Now between 1 and 28 is a wider gap. To be fair, zeremefico said moonlight was kind of between 1 and 2 on his meter so maybe I should say 1.5.

Now I assume most people here would agree with me the the S70s mode spacing is tighter than the L6.

This is my opinion.

I can further clarify my original statement by saying “The mode spacing seems tighter ”in general” compared to the L6.

Now if you think the mode spacing “in general” is NOT tighter between these 2 lights, then that’s fine. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion.

Are you confused about how I answered your question “Is 200 and 1000 lumens “tight” spacing?“?

I will answer your question in more detail:

(I don’t know. Maybe? Maybe not? I was not really referring to the lower levels. I was mainly referring to the higher levels.)

Anyway, I hope that we are not boring anyone here. Sorry folks.

I don’t think I can be any clearer in my answers, but if you still want or need more explanations you can send me a PM. I will try to help.

The answer to this is very easy. For it to be not quite close it should be the same or similar spacing to the L6, whatever that might be.

Personally (in my opinion), I think the closer high and turbo spacing on the S70s is a good thing. The difference to the eye will be rather small, but runtime will be much longer due to less heat plus less battery drain. This is good for when you need it on long times. Then you can use the turbo for when you need to use it in shorter blasts of 5 to 20 seconds. That’s mainly how I use my L6.

Whew! All that and still no number!

From S70s spec: Turbo - 3960, High - 1800
From L6 user: …. Turbo - 3473, High - 1631

From the above, don’t you think L6, not S70s, that is closer?

I can’t give you an exact number.

Are you sure your numbers are correct? I think you need to check them again.

S70s 255 to 330
L6 124 to 325

Does not correspond to your lumen numbers. The S70S high should be double the L6 high lumen numbers.

I’ll do some rough lumens calculations of high and turbo from zeremefico’s video. He says his light box is accurate at 1000 lumen and below, but as you go up you need to use a 1.1 then 1.2 multiplier.

S70s - 2700 to 4000
L6 —- 1300 to 3800

What numbers do you get with your L6?

Got mine today !
.

So, i already expected the light to be somewhat ugly, since i have seen the pictures of the S70S.
Somehow in my memory the ‘old’ S70 looked better than the Convoy L6.
But the recent pics of a matte black L6 do make it look good.
Anyway, this was a bargain and probably better than the C70, so it arrived today.
Out of the box it’s not a very pretty looking light i.m.o.

I have nothing similar to compare it with, this is my first light of this caliber, although i do have a C8 with MT-G2.
But that has a small (normal size) reflector and an even bigger LED die.

————————

REPORTING:

So it’s 4 modes, press long for OFF, etcetera…
Lens is AR coated but also seems to have loss of output, it looks slightly darker (warm grey-ish tint) than the spare lens, which is not coated.

Ugly side switch boot and ring.

‘cigar grip ring’ or what ever you call it is uncomfortable, too sharp, too thin, too protruding, i’m not using it.

Carrying strap. Seems okay.

Cheap looking tailswitch boot. Although it’s a fine boot for the job, because it’s small and also black, it looks a little cheap together.
Included green and orange spare boots won’t help.

Driver looks good, with large coil and big ‘sense resistors’, you know the pictures, beefier than L6 driver ‘FX-30’ (which i bought a while ago but haven’t used it yet) and with fewer parts.

Mode spacing is indeed close together.
Low is quite bright.
Have to click 3 times to go from medium back to low, no reverse.

I think i would have preferred the L6 3 mode spacing…

Tint looks like 2B or something.

Bright light! (of course) :slight_smile:
.

BUT,
The 32 x 1.6 mm copper MCPCB has NO direct thermal path. :frowning:
At least, mine hasn’t…
I will mod the MCPCB to DTP, put a solid piece op copper as thermal slug, heat path to reflector also an option…
.

Either way, i took the whole thing apart basically…
.

Springs bypassed with AWG18 (maybe AWG20).
Hole at 45° through switch PCB for spring bypass wire to switch pad.

I changed the switch boots, i’ll post some pictures later.
But still fiddling with the optics for the lighted side switch.

Translucent white boots (Astrolux) side and tail, makes the light look a lot better i.m.o, matches the white brand name print.
Skipped the side switch retainer ring.

Put a reverse clicky in the tail, matches with Astrolux boot to fit in tailcap.


The green light stays on when the light is in any of the modes, i was hoping it would turn off when in use.

27mm Liitokala fits easy in tube.

Nice finish and build altogether :+1: But there are still some sharp edges left here and there.

No donut beam, looks smooth and nice hotspot, not unlike OP reflector in a C8 with XM-L(2), but a LOT brighter of course. :slight_smile:

I haven’t even tested it outside yet… :smiley: :person_facepalming:
I have to do that MCPCB before i switch it on again.

I can’t get the threads of the head going, tried unscrewing it form the pill section, but no go.
But i can work around it.

When these immediate modifications are done maybe do a resistor mod on the driver, maybe not.
Also looking forward to XHP70.2 for this light. :slight_smile:
Some pics later…

I’m not very experienced taking lumen measurements, but I recently got a LX1330B lux meter. I did some ceiling bounce measurements with it and got:

Low 1.9
Med 14.2
High 113
Turbo 311

After adding an R082 I got 344 on turbo. This is a NW emitter.

It should be 5 modes. The moonlight is kinda hidden. I thought you long press the side switch to activate moonlight? It’s a bit confusing.

I like the Nanjg 105 3 mode spacing.
I think it’s: 10% - 30% - 100%.
with 8x AMC7135 roughly: 1 Watt - 3 Watt - 10 Watt
(hopefully) around: 100 lumen - 300 lumen - 1000 lumen (from LED).

With this XHP70 light we would then look for: 400 lumen - 1200 lumen - 4000 lumen, roughly: 4 watt - 12 Watt - 40 Watt.
But then an extra low 130 lumen / 1.3 Watt mode would be welcome too: 3% - 10% - 30% - 100% in 4 modes.
…plus a hidden moon mode of 1% at around 0.4 watt…?

Hmmm… diving light, magnetic fader, stepless dimming, but without PWM…

……3x 26650 step down, slider operated stepless current regulation…