Regarding your battery choices, it’s great that you decided to go with Mountain Electronics. However, I wonder if protected cells are going to get tripped if you run them DD in Turbo mode? I only have unprotected cells so hopefully someone else can advise you on that.
True… but I know you can make a very good and bargain price for a fellow flashlight forum member :+1: :innocent:
I didn’t know about that… :person_facepalming:
Whenever my flashlight addiction bleeds me dry and I need more $, I’ll let you know 
As for running protected cells, I’m sure someone will chime in soon. Don’t panic just yet 
My daughter bought a 70-200 f/4 and then ended up selling it for a fraction of what it cost. She, of course, did not tell me of her intentions until it was gone. I mean, she sold it for like $400.
Mine is the original 2.8L IS, love it! And yes, on the 1DsMkII especially, it’s a bear!
Direct drive drivers and protected cells are not good friends.
Edit: I was helping a friend find a decent point and shoot, used for the budget he had, and ran across a like new 20D for $135. Of course, I couldn’t let that go. So now I have a 20D, 7DMkII, 5DMkII and 1DsMkII to go with my G1X and SD700 and the Sony point and shoot, wherever it’s gotten off to. Even the little Pentax S4i still works, tiny thing, literally fits inside an Altoids tin!
How about one of those high power SK98 type zoomies modded with better tint? Wouldn’t that allow extremely accurate application of “light paint”?
Wow, that’s a great array of cameras! I specially like the 7D mkII in there! Mine is a 5D mkII also (that just had a failure on its shutter after 118k clicks :cry: ). But shutter replaced already.
Ok, since we are talking about photography I’ll show you how I got here:
A couple of weeks ago I was camping and photographing the nightsky with a friend. I was with my cheap and good $3 ebay headlamp (very good with low lumens and lighting the close path), and he had his headlamp and also a Fenix (I don’t know the model) beast-light. That was the first time I saw a true serious light. I didn’t even know that they existed in such a compact body. I was impressed and amazed on how far it reached and helped us a lot along our way. At a given moment while I was photographing, he walked away to try to reach the mountain and I was able to photograph his light path. I have made a gif composed of 7 pics that I shot at that moment and posted it below (14mm, f2.8, 25s each picture, ISO3200) :
By the way, I am located in Brazil, this is the southern Milky Way and the brightest star in the pictures is actually Mars! Edit: the idea was not light paint the mountain. He was lighting his way while he was walking. But it was a nice example to post here.
I guess his light was 1” diameter only, and that was already very nice to me. Look how he lightened the rocky mountain (but remember this a vey long exposure). That’s why I am trying to keep size down, that was already a heck of a light for me. Anything much bigger in diameter and it will bother me more than help (still thinking if X6 is small enough).
So now that I accepted an external charger, I was finally considering the Astrolux S2 version (with higher output). But now I see it does not have the lateral button like the X6R. Oh God, why? I may accept that but the lateral button would be nicer.
Well, that’s for path-finding throw. Now changing a little to light painting topic, here’s another example of a picture of mine. A lavander field I light painted with my cheap $3 ebay headlamp:
500px (for the photographers interested you can reach my gallery from there)
Now the Jaxman E2 enters the field. I don’t use light painting normally, but when this moment arrives it will be handy. The CR Index on the review I posted earlier was so nice that sold me this light. Even if the output is much lower, it will be enough for me illuminating the close foreground (the flood-type reflector might also help). In fact I saw a video on youtube of Jaxmen E2 and it seemed pretty strong in output, not close to the X6 but still decent. I could use it also for other kind of shots like macro or product-studio-alike
I have not seen any CRI review for the Astrolux S1 / Manker E14. It may be much more than I need with 4x Nichias, and I am afraid the glass used can add some kind of tint (no review I saw measured that).
If I could avoid modding I would save my time to photograph more, but if it justifies the work and I can handle it, why not? Would it be better than the Jaxman E2 CRI measurements?
Perhaps a Jaxman Z1 would allow you to control what got light and what didn’t, it’s a zoomie that can make a small image of the die, square like the die in most instances, and you could probably paint the mountain itself with almost no spill getting anywhere else, effectively making the mountain glow.
Nice series, really like how the Milky Way and Mars shine.
My Kronos X6 works fine but the ano chips off too easy, last time I hung it outside of my jeans pocket I felt something in my hand and it was a small piece of ano.
I wanted a nice looking light that worked as fine and found the Eagle Eye X6 host.
One would cost $12 but to be sure I ordered a complete light. To swap driver, tailpcb and LED with the Kronos X6 with
It arrived today and all looks crisp and clean and the ano has a quality feel.
Here you go Convoy C8 grey and the X6
Thanks! Z1 would be really great, but too large to fit in my bag...
Thanks! I can compare a little better with your pics.
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Warning: long post is coming. If you don't want to read everything just jump to the last part!
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Guys, I finally found the kind of information I have been looking for, something that was really needed in order to decide. After weeks reading comparisons and seeing "X vs Y" youtube videos, I had several separated pieces of a giant puzzle in my mind, impossible to put togheter. But now I have found this great german forum: someone actually tested tons and tons of flashlights, all in the same controlled enviroment, and took pictures exactly with the same parameters.
Now I am able to really see how much a flash light differs from another without having to rely on adjectives only. This is the most objective way to do this kind of choice. Of course there can be variations after these pictures, but it can give us a clearly idea of each product. I'll post here all the screenshots of the flashlights considered on this topic for those who may be looking for something similar, and then at the end my finalists choices. Take my words with a grain of salt, I am no specialist and I am basing myself only in the provided pictures. I invite every experienced user here to correct me and add anything.
First, the source link for the complete list of all flashlights tested, where I found these pictures and much others: http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/%C3%9Cber-800-beamshots-mit-lampenbildern.27575/
Firstly, I have broken my problem into parts: no need to combine "high CRI" + "USB internal recharging" + "great thrower in a compact size" in one product. I see it is impossible all the three on the same product. The Thrunite TC12 may have a little of each characteristic, but not great performance in all of them. So because I really want the best of each, I'll stick with:
1- Jaxman E2 high CRI for light painting;
2- External charger
3- Most compact flash with decent throw I can find (neutral white and internal charger would be a plus, but not the deciding factor anymore)
The pictures below will only be used to find item 3 above. Items items 1 and 2 are easy.
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Let's start looking at the 1" or comparable sized flashlights first only, to see how much less brighter they are than the bigger reflector ones at the end of the post. I am interested on how much the furthest object at the end of corridor is lit to judge the lights.
The Nitecore P12GT is claimed to have the best trhow on a 1" reflector, so let's start with him. Following I'll post similar sized flashlights that I have read good things about (neutral white when avaliable):
We can see in this first group of comparision that the Nitecores and Thrunites are all very similar. Some small differences yes, but seeing the big picture the differences of features are more important than the light output. One little guy stands from all of these group now, it was a surprise for me: the Lumintop SD Mini. Actually I am very tempted to get one due is tiny size and so good light output!
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Moving on we enter in the second group of comparison, flashlights with the reflectors a little bigger than 1" and still compact design:
I think EagTec G25C2 Limited takes the lead here.
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Now we move to a bit bigger-size category, flashlights not so compact, but still smaller than a C8:
At this category the Armytek and X6 takes the lead, but considering size is a must, my choice it is X6 all the way. I guess this X6 tested was with the normal drive. The FET+1 drive will provide even more output making him more powerful than any other on this category.
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And lastly, just for comparison sake since they are outruled due excessive size, some C8's to see how far a X6 is from them:
I can clearly see the X6 being better than some C8s 
. Not all of them of couse, but size-wise it is unbeatable.
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Now, I have put together on this animated gif below the winner of each category to compare the light output of them. Thre decent sized flashlights and with great output:
The EagTec seem a little more difficult to get on chinese websites and moreand too long compared with the other two. Lumintop MiniSD only comes in cool white, but it seems truly amazing for its size! And it even has an internal charger. Maybe I'll stick with Astrolux S2 / X6 special edition and also this MiniSD. I'll just go out with both, and pick my favourite after using them a little.
What do you think?
- Question: Is there a reason for the price difference between Astrolux S2 ($35) and BLF X6 Special Edition ($50)?
- Question: maybe this miniSD compares with the Imalent Dn11 / new Astrolux MH10?
Interesting….you’re impressed with the MiniSD but the Zebralight that’s actually smaller (and much lighter), has a higher output, and comes with the much better tint (80 CRI) is underwhelming? I guess the throw seems a bit further, but the tint just kills that light for me.
So, I am planning to use the Samsung 30Q with Astrolux S2, looks like the high drain battery with higher capacity. They are unprotected, does that mean that if I discharge them below a certain voltage limit, my battery will die? How can I handle the problem if the light accidentally turns on inside my bag and I don’t notice it for days? Is there a way to use low voltage protection? Not very likely to happen but already happened once to me.
Zebralight seem throw not so well as MiniSD according to the pictures, but again some kind of mistake on these tests is not impossible. I’ll consider your info and search for Zebralight MiniSD comparisons, thanks!
The S2 has a lit blue LED tailcap when not in use, that will drain battery very slowly. If there is any concern of over discharge, I’d get protected cells.
Ok, I don’t want to kill any cells. The light will be something to help me solve a problem, not creating others. It should work as simple as possible.
I’ll be going with protected cells. The thing now is finding a High Drain protected cells. I have seen reviews stating that 69.5mm protected cells fit on X6 just fine.
Someone on another forum recommended this one as a high drain and protected:
Any other inputs?
Loosen the tail cap to lock out the light, no contact, no drain.
The light has built in low voltage protection, it’ll turn off around 2.8V to protect the cell.
Unprotected high discharge cells are best for the FET+1 driver. Not much point in all the work so many people put into that driver and light if you’re going to choke it down with protected cells.
There’s as little danger of any issues with unprotected cells in the S2/X6 as there is with any protected cell, just not anything to fret over. With protections built into the light, and with new chemistries in the high discharge cells, the protected cell really has nothing to offer and plenty to lose.
Great! All excellent, I guess there’ll will no big problems going with an unprotected cell then. On the other hand, since I am a noobie in the field I am so afraid of exploding it making something stupid that I am not aware of…
For the protected cell that I linked above, Mountain claims that the protection circuit may trip at 7+ amps, and a user already tested it at 5A with no problems. I guess the S2 will not drain more than 5 or 7A on turbo?
If I do both spring bypasses, how many amps should it consume on turbo? Will I fry my light doing this with direct drive? Then maybe it would need more than 7A?
EDIT: I guess the main problem going unprotected was solved with this auto turn-off feature on the light. Do I need a very good charger if I go unprotected not to overcharge it? I am thinking about Xtar SV2 that can charge at 2A rate.
If the 7A protected cell is ok for the S2, then I may go on the safe side… or maybe buy both and compare the outputs…
Virtually every Li-ion charger out there has the correct algorythm to properly charge a cell without over-charging. Certainly any XTAR charger does. So that is not an issue.
With spring bypasses on the S2/X6 an XP-L can pull around 6A, probably a bit less. The difference between a protected cell that can barely manage it and a 30Q will be one of lumens. The Samsung 30Q has among the highest capable output levels of any 18650 in this type of light. You’re going to have to look long and hard to find a cell that will let this light make more lumens, I’ve tested 17 cells on this kind of driver, the 30Q and Efest dark purple 3000mAh cell are the highest.
Thanks!
have you tested this one specifically?
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=289
If you tested and performed poor, then I will not even bother. But if it was not tested yet maybe I can give it a try?
Product description says:
This is Sanyo and Panasonic's and newest high discharge capable 18650 cell, rated for up to 10A continuous discharge. It is a good compromise between IMR and regular LiCo cells, offering lower internal resistance and higher discharge rate capabilities and higher capacity than IMR. This is a popular cell for high drain XM-L & XM-L2 lights because it's lower internal resistance allows these high forward voltage LEDs to remain brighter longer.
The protection circuit features a high-quality Seiko IC (made in Japan) with AO MOSFETs.
Maximum Continuous Discharge Current (protection circuit limited): 8A (cell is rated for 10A, but protection circuit may trip at 8A+)
I haven’t. I don’t buy protected cells. Too many of my lights pull more than it/they can handle.
Years ago I got one of the very first Solarforce S2200’s to ship, put AW 18650 2600mAh protected cells in it, I think that’s the last time I bought protected cells. (My light is serial number A0009) For some crazy reason, Solarforce announced the S2200 then closed for vacation within a few hours. I got my order in and they shipped it in those few hours. Everyone else was waiting for them to get back. lol This was May of ’13 I think. I got it the day my wife went in for a Hysterectomy and had it up at the hospital with us. 