Yes, that is correct most UV adhesives needs nm365 to cure, as the chart also shows, but the output, w/cm2 is also important inorder to cure - for instance adhesives like Cyberbond, Loctite etc.
You can build a better 365nm light cheaper than you can buy them from that list. About $15 for the host and the driver under $5. The LED is the pricey part of it. I have the LED Engin LZ1-10UV00-0000 (20mm star) in my Convoy M2 driven at 1 amp.
http://www.digikey.com/product-highlights/en/lz1-uv-365-nm-gen2-emitter/53072
Ok, but I dont think I have the skills to build a flashlight myself! I have been told that Nichia LED is perfect for LED curing!?
Put arctic silver under the star, screw in two screws to hold it down. Solder the two wires from the driver to the star, screw the driver retaining ring in place, drop the reflector, lens and o’ring in then screw the bezel in. Then you put a 18650 battery in there and away you go.
Ok, sounds esay, - do I buy it as a kit or what? Manual included? I have never build a LED light before or something similar!!?
Just do some reading around here and you’ll get an idea real quick on how it’s done. If you can’t solder, find a friend who can solder those two wires for you.
I host my M2 host and 1 amp driver from RMM who post here. His store is http://www.mtnelectronics.com/
Don’t forget the tweezers . They help with putting the LED in place and are perfect for screwing the driver retaining ring in place.
EDIT:
I used this driver . I used the M2 host because it was just easy to screw a star down with 2 screws. The M1 host should be just as easy.
I also bridged #2 star to ground ring to disable the “disco inferno” mode.
EDIT 2:
(-) 1, 2 and 3. Any one can be used.
(+) 4, 5 and 6. Any one can be used.
EDIT 3
MCPCB star sits in here, held down with screws. Wires come out of the other two holes.
Driver sits in here and is held in place with a brass ring.
I hope that is a good enough explanation.
Thx, I will give it a try!
Looks cool!
You know some who could build a custom made UV LED light for curing UV adhesive, with a lot of output power, w/cm2, and nm365 !??
i had been using a couple different low power UV flashlights lights to cure NOA and have found that it takes all night to get a partial cure. I made a light using the LZ1 emitter linked above and it cures in seconds. Much better.
this is a good thread if your going to make one: making a small UV-zoomie with the new Ledengin LZ1 360-370nm led
im just building a second one using these components:
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1277401-convoy-s2-diy-edc-led-flashlight-host
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001683/1122400
http://ca.mouser.com/new/ledengin/led-engin-lz1-365nm-emitters/
and thats all the components you need to build a UV flashlight for curing UV adhesives?
yup that’s all you need. Plus some wire and solder and a battery. you will also need a protected 18650 battery and a charger if you don’t already have one.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1420/10001980/1315402
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001637/1319800-nitecore-i2-lithium-li-ion-ni-mh-ni-cd-smart
then I will try to build one with same specs as below from UVATA with Nichia LED
Not contributing to the conversation, but this was really cool to read.
Can anyone else comment on the quality of the Convoy S2 UV for curing Norland etc? I was thinking of building something but that is cheaper and easier to just buy.
I have done some testing on a chinese 3535-size 365nm led (from intl-outdoor.com) and while it does not have the output of the Ledengin LZ1, it seems to get to about 40% of the LZ1 output, with a spectrum maximum of 370nm which is pretty ok. If the LZ1 cures stuff in seconds, this emitter will probably do fine as well. This is assuming that the Convoy uses a similar led...
On a side note, you are all luring Christian into flashlight modding, but I remember when I started doing that nothing came for granted, it was quite an extended learning curve. I think that if he has a practical and present need for this flashlight it is a way better idea to just buy a complete light.On the other hand, if you do have the time, it might be the start of a nice hobby :-)
The LED in that convoy is unknown though.
And I think we forgot to tell him one of the most important things. To get a pair of UV blocking glasses.
Sure we get some visible light with out LZ1s but it’s what you can’t see that will hurt you. I can aim my light at the palm of my hand and my skin starts feeling the heat when there is very little visible light. If we could see in the 365nm spectrum, I think the LZ1 would be almost as bright as a Cree XM-L2 on medium power.
Sounds like you are trying to cure with the adhesive sandwiched between 2 pieces of glass. I don't have the time to look it up right now, but doesn't typical glass filter/attenuate some of the UV spectrum?