Waiting for next batch [AMZ US Available Now] $49.99 Sofirn SP36 Anduril Version

Hey guys, **

[UPDATE 22th May]

SP36 Anduril Version AMZ US is available now! $49.99 for new released! Can be ended at any time.

【UPDATE 10th April】

Sofirn SP36 BLF Anduril is available to preorder on banggood. Link

Normal Price:$78.99
Coupon Price: $46.99
Coupon Code:BLFSP36

【UPDATE 1st April】tests outcome of two prototypes of SP36 Anduril Version with 4* LH351D leds

#1(HD Batteries): max 5650LM; tint:5270K; CRI:83.9 ; distance:352m

#2(Normal sanyo Batteries): max 5300LM; tint:5130K ; CRI:83.6 ; distance:337m

this beam was taken by huawei smart phone. It's hard to show the how it looks via naked eyes.

【UPDATE】It seems some like 90CRI. Boss of sofirn is trying to get 90CRI but that's more difficult than 80CRI. Will definitely get some but don't know when and how many.

Thanks to ToyKeeper's help, Sofirn is going to make SP36 Anduril Version. Sofirn would love to select 4* LH351D 5000K 80CRI, want to see how many of you guys are interested.

Please reply if you are interested. Or give some new ideas on SP36.

Thanks "Sofirn SP36 Impression of sample by Djozz":https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/53450

"A review of SP36 by liquidretro":https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/55229

sofirn is going to make another version SP36 Pro with 4* XHP50.2 10K lumens and sofirn designed driver.

Definitely interested. Love the tint.

Interested too.

I still haven’t gotten a light with the LH351D (but maybe they can offer both the 80 CRI 5000K and another LH351D with 90CRI warmer tint)…



Tripod socket or lanyard attachment please.

I like that and I’m interested. I would like to know the tint bin of the used leds.

Extra ideas:
*Stainless steel bezel
*Tripod mount (although I know it does not easily fit in the current design).
*orange or red switch leds instead of green
*and of course a removable driver, i.e. screwed down like the Q8

I would like to have a choice of 4000K-4500K too. And I hope someday you can make 4*XHP50.

Good idea Barry! :THUMBS-UP:

My suggestions:

  • Two options: LH351D 5000K 70CRI W6 Flux Bin for maximum output / LH351D 4.000K 90CRI for HighCRI enthusiasts
  • Lanyard attachment or - as Djozz suggested - tripod mount
  • Retaining ring or screws to hold driver in place

I would definitely (not) be interested in a 4* LH351D 5000K 80CRI SP36 Anduril Version. (if it has a yellow tint)

(Based on THIS POST by KawiBoy1428, I would be interested in a SP36 with 4 x LH351D W6 5700k.)

I am also interested in the things mentioned by djozz, quoted below.

Edited to change opinion. That change is based on THIS POST by KawiBoy1428 …… My “Edit’s” are in ( edits ).

(The way he describes the LH351D W6 5700k sounds as though it would be much more to my liking. :+1: )

Interested 5000K

I have tried the 5000k… the 5000k 80CRI I suspect would be more yellow than the 5000k with out doubt, considering all the other HICRI’s I tried were yellow to orange.

Now I’m running only with the LH351D W6 5700k in quads and triples :+1: it is spectacular IMHO and from my experience(s).

But I have to admit the combo 2x5000k by 2x5700k quad I built is totally acceptable maybe close to spectacular… :smiley:

I ask Sofirn as a challenge, to at least give the 5700k a try… if you (Sofirn) don’t like it…I’ll buy it, just PM me and I’ll send the cash :wink:

:smiley: :+1:

Interested, NO GLUE

Interested if the tint isn’t green like so many I’ve seen

While I love my SP36 and use it all the time around the house and property, I wouldn’t mind a warmer tint. 5000K sounds great and it’s what I have and enjoy on a bunch of my lights. Warmer wouldn’t be bad either but as you go to extremes, I’d imagine sales would suffer. I love Narsil ramping and basically only use it without going into any of the special modes or features. If Anduril can help a bit with the heat when using turbo, it might be worthwhile.

I can’t say that I will buy another since my own SP36 is so often used and I don’t know if I’d upgrade.

This sounds like a really nice upgrade to the SP36. The SP36 is a good light and the LH351D makes a really nice-looking beam.

As Lux-Perpetua mentioned, it may be interesting to use the 5000K version with the most lumens, and also make a 4000K version optimized for high CRI. In both cases though, try to get a tint bin on the pink side of the BBL instead of the green side.

It would also be nice for people around here if the driver was held in by screws or a retaining ring instead of glue. :slight_smile:

If Sofirn is interested, it may also be worthwhile to sell a diffuser cap which fits onto the SP36 to turn it into a candle or a lantern. That would allow it to serve more purposes, and it’s a nice thing to have when using Anduril’s candle mode.

Perhaps you would be more interested in the original version of the SP36? It already has a cool white emitter, fairly close to what you described. The main difference is that it uses XP-L2 instead of LH351D. However, the beam looks a lot nicer than I expected, and it’s already available today.

The main points of doing this new SP36 are:

  • Neutral white instead of cool white.
  • Improve beam consistency.
  • Anduril firmware.

The original version is still surprisngly nice though. It’s basically a Q8, only smaller and with built-in charging. I didn’t expect to like it because of the cool white emitters, but it actually works really well.

I’ve mostly found that the SP36 handles heat pretty well. From a cold start, I find it usually takes 2 to 3 minutes before it starts ramping down from turbo. Anduril does still regulate the brightness down eventually though, and here’s how that looks. The blue line in these graphs shows how it behaves.

There are no immediate step-downs. Brightness is gradually adjusted as smoothly as the hardware allows, which makes it difficult to actually notice during use. If the light later gets cold, it adjusts smoothly back up. This tends to happen when the battery voltage drops, because it gets more efficient and produces less heat as the battery voltage drops closer to the emitter voltage. The overall pattern is shown in the graphs below:

I’d recommend using a high-capacity cell like the 35E, if possible. It increases runtime at most levels, and also increases the length of time the light can spend on turbo before ramping down. The only downside is that turbo won’t be quite as bright. The difference isn’t very perceptible by eye, but it does make a noticeable difference in terms of how long it takes to get hot.


  • No Glue anywhere
  • Use a driver retaining ring

Interested in 2 if no glue, otherwise 1