Wanted: Quality and rugged lanyards for lights... found?

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

OK, I’ve been searching for lanyards worth having on my more expensive, larger, and heavier, lights. The tiny cords for the smaller lights are fine since I mostly don’t use them; I just use a pocket or hold the light with my mouth. What I’m looking for is either a slung lanyard or a wrist lanyard. I did find belt lanyards, but I don’t always wear a belt. Our old technology lights were diving lights and they had wrist lanyards that worked fine.

This (below) is what I’ve found. I invite comments esp’ if you have experience with any of the items. Some of the linked items work in conjunction with other items. I favor the first 2 items.

BTW, these are mostly tool lanyards used for working above other people, #2 is the exception.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H8BTDW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I question the tiny connector line going to the camera or light with these (below). But it does appear heavier than the free lanyards provided by most manufacturers. I like it’s simplicity and it’s less “industrial” look than some of the others.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Z9P4OC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1HO4G0LGTWRHV

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X9VK8EU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXKYJXG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017YZBZ98/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3AQOJE9KCAM7U

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007H6DR9G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

2

Oh yes those tiny parts to actually attach a lanyard with make me not use them.
Some SRKs come with a nice thick one with just some of those plastic thingies on it to adjust.
If I could tie nice knots and needed a good lanyard i d try paracord and a metal ring used on keys for sturdyness.

3

TM, have you ever dissected one that are supplied with the smaller lights? I had one basically fall apart, and it was what I would consider light monofilament wrapped with black thread to make it appear to be heavier than it was. Just junk.

I might go to a ocean fishing tackle shop and get some braided dacron line for tuna or shark and replace the measly stuff. It’s not difficult to get the parts apart. But in the meantime I’m searching.

4

Yeah the ends come together in a plastic thing and opened the inside of the rope can be seen, not bad.
Ah that is clever using wires designed for heavy load!

5

I just bought a spool of this.: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00144CAUY/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Who knows when I’ll get to the coast to buy something. My understanding is that the new braided flourocarbon line is pretty tough stuff. Much tougher than the old tech dacron line I mentioned. I figured 50# test is tougher than the plastic connector thingybob. Too, I want it to pass through even the small holes in the ends of the smaller lights.

I’ll keep this updated as I use it.

6

Just a few days ago I used the parts from the lanyard for my L5 on a piece of us made camo 550 paracord. It’s a bit stiffer since I didn’t remove any cores but it looks MUCH better than the grey that came with it. I may disassemble it again and replace the lobsterclaw clasp with some braided green spiderwire (spectra) braided fishing line and remove a few cores. 3 pairs of 40 lb braided should work just fine. :smiley:

7

I sometimes use a small stainless split ring to attach a heavier lanyard to my lights .

Edit : ( Made of paracord , of course )

8

Another option is to tie the lanyard directly to the light .

It can’t get much stronger than this .

9

I was thinking of doing the direct tie. Small SS split rings… Hmm, sounds like it’s worthy of Google.

Edit: Yup, plenty of options now. Thanks for the ideas and options gents! 150 SS split rings for $8. More than a lifetime supply. Heck, more than a lifetime supply of lanyards now after everything is figured out. If the light is snatched out of my grasp the line or split ring will break before the paracord will yank my arm off. Retention, but not too much retention. I think my arm will take 50# of pull before breaking. I like that.

I have enough ideas that I’ve put into place; I’m just waiting for things to ship and arrive. But if anyone else has ideas for lanyards please put them here for others. I’m always open to better ideas too; my mind is never closed to them.

10

A split ring is more likely to damage anodizing than paracord.

11

Yeah, I hear you. I intend to try the braided flourocarbon fishing line first. I have high hopes for it. I’m thinking if I have to build from scratch, and that’s entirely possible, the split rings will connect the finer line and the paracord. I think line rubbing on line wouldn’t be good. Or maybe I can find a knot that will work to connect dissimilar size lines.

I’m also going to find some small diameter tubing to make the cord more comfortable on the skin. Maybe some sliding keepers as well to be able to snug it up to the wrist.

12

This is what I found for paracord stoppers: Amazon.com

Under $2 for 10 of them with free shipping.

If I do decide to tie the flourocarbon line to the paracord I found that the Albright knot is probably the one to use. I would reinforce the knot with superglue.

Edit: The Albright knot: Albright Knot | Fishing Knots | Animated Knots by Grog

To tie a knot in the middle of a cord that will handle a load from either side, as in tying in a ring: Alpine Butterfly Knot - How to tie an Alpine Butterfly Knot | All Knots Animated

As I already wrote, I’ll keep this updated as things come in and I have time to work on it.

13

OK, so my split rings came in today along with my Seaguar 50# test leader material. It’s significantly heavier than the line used in the “free” lanyards supplied with many lights. If one wanted to go heavier it would be possible, but 50# test is pretty good.

I’ll try to post pics tomorrow (by editing this post) after the superglue dries and my cord stoppers come in so that I can finish the lanyards.

So far the 2 I like best are also the easiest to make and have reduced hardware.

The first one I made used existing hardware. It’s overly complex with too many parts that can fail. But it is quickly detachable from the light. That can be done in other ways and with fewer parts. The knot that is invisible was coated with glue and allowed to cure before reassembly. The leader material goes through the plastic connector and the knot keeps it from pulling through. The hole in the plastic part is the weak link in this lanyard IMO, and I don’t trust it.

The second one used a split ring and simple loops made with overhand knots in both the leader material and the cord. I used a polyester shoelace for the cord. Simple and effective. I cannibalized the stopper from another lanyard from a different flashlight. I like this lanyard. All knots got the glue treatment after being pulled tight with long nose pliers.

The 3rd uses the Albright Special knot and no hardware at all. It’s leader material, cord, glue, and nothing else. If you’re on a budget and want a super simple lanyard, well, I like this one a lot. Again, the knots were moved into place and them pulled tight with pliers. Put the pliers on the ends that will be cut off so as not to compromise the material.

There is another that I haven’t tried yet, and it uses the hardware that comes with the free lanyards. It consists of a piece of paracord and leader material. Basically take apart one of the supplied lanyards and notice how simple it is. It’s a piece of heat cut cord and the light line goes through it and the plastic “connector” hides what’s going on inside. It would be as simple as making the same loop of leader material made with an overhand knot, put the running ends through the hole in the “connector first. At this point you’ll have a loop of leader material going through the plastic connector. Put some paracord through the loop formed on the big open end of the connector . Put a stopper in place and run the running ends of cord through it. Tie the running ends with an overhand knot to form the wrist loop. Glue all of the knots and after curing slide the plastic connector (actually just a cosmetic piece, but it does serve a function) Over the knot in the leader material and pull it over the junction of the cord and leader. What function does it serve? OK, cosmetic, but it also prevents the leader and cord from chaffing each other. It should work, but so far I haven’t tried it.

After I get my stoppers, and they should be in tomorrow, I’ll post pix. Pix make the text more understandable.

Could any or all of them have quick disconnects? Absolutely. I just wanted to keep parts to a minimum since more parts mean more places to have problems. Can you add 6” of tubing to make the lanyard more comfortable on the wrist? Absolutely. I see no need for it though.

Pix soon.

14

sounds great!

15

One thought — consider having a weak link.
Worth reviewing: What makes a good 'break away' neck lanyard? | Candle Power Flashlight Forum

It’s an important distinction:
“break-away-neck-lanyard” versus “break-neck-lanyard”

16

Hank, good point, but that quote… the person who wrote the quote has led a very sheltered military experience if any at all. But the ’net is loaded with armchair commandos and for some reason they need to give the world the benefit of their limited experience (or fantasy experience) . Folks in the military trust their lives to paracord every day, and there is far more paracord in use than beaded chain. The only place I ever saw beaded chain was on my dogtags. Everything else was far more durable. But we’d add quick disconnects to everything. They are extremely easy to tie in. One pull and whatever the quick disconnect is connected to is gone as was the “hang up hazard” . So you don’t need to convince me. BTW, I drive my wife nuts with my quick disconnects on hazardous gear where they can designed in. She just doesn’t “get it”. :slight_smile: They should have a”pull here to jettison” label on the cord end; maybe then she would.

I took the “arm fuse” into account with my wrist lanyard with the leader material. It’s test can be adjusted for children and slightly built folks as needed. What I posted is just an idea for folks to run with… or not, as they wish. It’s not carved in stone and I force no one to do anything; it’s just what I did. Folks should feel free to adjust it to suit themselves or walk away entirely. You raised a good and valid point. I hope no one mimics what I did just because I did it. I also hope that no one uses a wrist or neck lanyard where it shouldn’t used.