Weapon Light

This means no driver in the flashlights head, just a MOSFET with a coin battery for the remote tail switch on my special board
you can swap out the remote switch with normal one at any time, just removing the retaining ring

The battery lasts for a couple hundred hours you press the button
Of course the battery holder needs to be reinforced with some glue, as the board is 1mm less wide that the C8 Tail ring you can use the glue on the rim of it, so it sticks super good
strain relief added with a wire tie

normal remote switches have a massive reduce on current in DD lights, so I made one with a 3mOhms FET

If you’re looking for a smaller reflector, a Convoy M1 might work. Not sure on the exact range of this and it comes standard with an orange peel reflector but I’m sure you could get a smooth reflector for it somewhere. Personally, I prefer the size and heatsink of the M1 to the C8 but the smaller reflector will reduce the throw of the light.

Thanks JJax… I am finally down to wanting whatever light I choose to have at least a 2” reflector and HXP-70 LED. The NEW Acebeam L-30 has the specs I want in it, BUT a pressure switch option is an unknown still. The L-30 CAN ALSO run on an 18650… but the newer 20700 makes it shine :wink: — and has the newer HXP-70.2 LED!

I am wondering IF I could mod the Brinyte B158 Zoomer with an HPX-70.2 using his mosfet/Li battery tail switch board Lexel makes. Oh, and it would be REALLY cool if I could fit a 20700 battery IN the Brinyte B158 too. :open_mouth:

Lexel… you suggested the Brinyte B158 as a good tactical mount/pressure switch option. Would your switch “fit” this light and could I use the HXP-70.2 (and maybe even a 20700 battery in there???

I’ve got the L30 and L16 from Acebeam. The L16 throws better with a great hot spot, the L30 throws well with massive flood. Neither can take a pressure switch due to the twin conduction tubes.

Twin conduction tubes???

It has a tube inside the body to allow a completed battery circuit even when the main switch is off. In this thread you can see it [Review] ACEBEAM L30 - XHP70.2 - 20700 On a British Amazon site it shows a remote cable but those only fit the L16 and the tail caps are not compatible.

Final config decided on…

First I want to thank everyone for their time and thoughts sent to me. I am now better educated on terms, limits and the market for these cool little lights because of all YOU BLF guys— THANKS! :+1: :+1: :+1:

I went back and forth on light size for my hunting gun (6.8SPC AR-15 for pig hunting) I realized I’d need to ultimately keep the weight down as I hunt on the go (“run ’n gun”) enough that a heavy rifle would be a problem (and everything adds up weight wise fast as you add scope, lights, etc). I though about possibly mounting a larger light closer to my mag and UNDER my rail (for more light/time at any given brightness)— and use the light itself as a handle. But added weight aside… this would not allow me to shoot off a bag or other natural rest (i.e. tree limb). The right light size/form factor (and mounts) for something like that also were not easy (cheap) to find too.

So as the C8 is the most modified (smaller) light I could find info on, I finally decided to start with the KDLITKER C8.2 Cree XHP50.2. In a review on the KD site, a fellow states this light got brighter than his DD modded XHP70 (using two 18650s). He also stated it’s efficient enough to run 40 minutes on a good 18650 too. I will learn to live with the driver and possibly modify it at a later date as the 5 modes (Vs. one) will have to be worked around. But that driver feeds the XHP50.2 the current needed to get to over 2k lumens— easily. As I don’t care about heat (barrel gets hot too) this higher power C8 got the nod in the end.

As I had reclaimed laptop/drill 18650’s already, the lights using this battery are just the smart route to go. I realize with a small light like the C8, that I’ll have to carry batteries as needed for an all-night hunt (which one 18650 fits perfectly into a Magpul handle BTW) :laughing: . There are lots of easy to find mounting options (and rifle scope mounts are as cheap as it gets) with all the rail accessories around for the AR platform. So the C8 with it’s size and “upgradability” is a nature choice, and the KD 2600 lumen version “as-is” will do what I need to get started.

As this hunting rig will not be the main light source for locating pigs at night, I realized I just needed enough run time for the final acquisition and shot (which is a few seconds) as the pigs don’t stay still long when the light hits them. So for me, this light works for what I need. And given the availability of info here at BLF, parts for future mods, AND LEXELS GREAT pressure switch mod (which allows for FULL current output on a remote pressure switch), I can use this light as is for now.

I plan to mount the light off the right side of a longer scope (using either a longer 45 degree off-set short rail, OR maybe a scope ring system (where the top ring mount has a 45 degree rail cast into it- so the light would set up higher than the scope). If I can use the more standard 45 degree short rail— it will come off from between the main “extra-tall” (but standard) scope mounts (so it would attach to the AR receiver’s top rail between the main scope mounts- I’m not using a “unimount” AR styled scope system as this scope goes on and stays on). So, I am still conceptualizing the mount and I’m going to get the light in the hand, then do some night testing WITH the scope mounted and moving the light around— then decide a final light mount. I want a clean, clear view and so if I must— the C8 might end up on the VERY forward end of the hand rail- underneath like a bayonet keeping clear of my field of view. So I need to play with it before making that final decision.

On the pressure switch: I wonder IF Magpul HAS a main pistol handle WITH a pressure switch built in for the middle of the palm (unlike the picatinny rail job they sell). My Springfield pistol has such a switch built into it as a safety and by just gripping the pistol you take it off safety. I guess Magpul would have to sell it with the light though so I’ll have to play with the pressure switch location too. Hey! Maybe I’ll do a mod with my handle I have (it is hollow and can be accessed via it’s removable bottom keeper- so any switch I could drill into this handle that works like my pistol’s would do the job)?! I’ll have to look around the surplus electronics sites now :person_facepalming: .

Although I planned to buy something and modify it right away, I feel the KD light will get me started with some hand-on experience to get better acquainted with the technology. And I also feel more time on BLF will help me better understand the tricks and tweaks so when I decide to mod this light— I’ll have a better understanding of how and what needs to be done. I see a lot of superb mods with lots of time and well thought out ideas here and so I’ll be hanging around more to learn about these amazing little lights!

Cheers to you all!

Pictures when you are done .

Pictures WILL come for sure pennzy :wink:

Good stuff here. I am searching for the perfect budget weapon mountable light also.
Link to my recent post.

Anyone selling modded Convoy C8’s?

Or have suggestions for a long rang weapon mountable
( 25mm or 30mm tube)

I’m not into building lights yet, I don’t need another expensive hobby.

I am an avid outdoorsman and gun nut. I like budget lights that outperform the expensive name brand stuff.

I am looking for long throw lights for night hunting. I purchased an Odepro kl52, and an Orion M30c and they both work pretty well for my uses, but they are a little big.
I am looking for something with as good or better throw, with a smaller head.

Welcome Saltwater, when I get pics (soon) I’ll post them here with my “little” C8.2 mounted :wink:

And just to say, if you really need a LOT out past 200, you’ll probably need to use a wider reflector head for the longest throws- something I personally don’t have room (or patience) to put on my AR 6.8. That’s just the way these lights go and there are physical limits that we have to respect.

I decided to use the smaller C8 for me to get out there where things work- for me. But you may want MORE light; and although there are options for this— the reflector is going to get larger the further you need to go out. Only you know how much light is too much weight and size for YOUR gun :wink: However, DO check out Lexel’s tail FET board if you plan to use it with ANY switch in ANY light (he supports). He’s a great guy (like many here).

Pig hunting is my 90% night hunting recreation sport- and I don’t typically NEED a lot out there at 200 because it spooks the pigs when you turn on anyway. We set the traps, know our distances and when we hear pigs— we turn on and shoot as many as we can, as fast as we can. Scope selection is important as you know- I use a 40mm Grand Slam scope to gather as much light as possible. A cheaper or smaller objective scope would need more light to get the same range of course.

The WHOLE rig will determine you needs in the end and so…. I agree you should ask many about different C8 (or other) lights as you can here- MOST guys here are awesome and full of great knowledge! The KDLitker just happens to be the most powerful (and well made) C8 I could find (that wasn’t too big for me) when I started into my 6.8 “relighting”project over X-mas. I had to keep it small enough (one 16850 battery size) so I can get through some THICK stuff without snagging on everything, but still get reasonable shots across the valley. And my light really does get out there pretty good (despite some heavy opinions otherwise :wink:

Just remember ANY light loosing 20% (or so) output on a weapon is an electrical problem, and the FET board IS the ONLY solution to that problem I see out there— so I indeed suggest you get one (or two- they are dirt cheap) for whatever light you use!

Good Luck!

Zappaman - have you considered dedomeing the c8.2 led? That will give you more candela - not sure the numbers but it’s often 1.5 to 2 times stock - I believe it’s 32kcd stock.

I have ordered a c8.2 for mounting on a 22/shotgun - my maxtoch 2X is really just too heavy and wasted on the short range shots under 100m

When I hear the term “Weapon Light” to me it means it will be mounted on a firearm used for serious business, IE defence or attack.

IMO a $30 light isn’t something I’d choose for that.

Zappaman - have you considered dedomeing the c8.2 led? That will give you more candela - not sure the numbers but it’s often 1.5 to 2 times stock - I believe it’s 32kcd stock.

I KNOW their are limits to any light, but there are also different skill levels of hunting. I once hunted coyotes in winter during a moon-lit night with NO light— as it’s illegal in Kansas to use a light (why I hunt pigs in Texas). So there was snow on the ground and it help a lot- I could see the brown on the dogs that night! So just to say, one guy’s light that works for him might not be another’s.

With that, the C8.2 works fine for me BECAUSE it’s small, but powerful enough for anything I’d kill with my AR 6.8 SPC. And so I’m pretty sure you will LOVE it on your rig. But, the C8.2 “de-dome” would be a great idea I think- so good advice there! If I planned it, I’d get a whiter light though, as after de-doming (I have read) the light will get warmer.

To be fair, I’ve only tested this light on about 10 shots so there may be a future mod with some glue gun goo (or epoxy) if things get loose after time. That said, I took the light apart and it is WELL put together- with a great fit and finish.

But… after further research (and my wife deciding she wants the C8.2) I have already decided to de-dome 3 XP-L2s on a C8F (on the way) for use on my gun since I’ll get a bit more light but keep the smaller form-factor (and I want to build a light just to do it too). My AR hits 9.5 lbs loaded with a scope, red-dot, and C8 and gets through the muck pretty good, anything larger is just too big for me.

Decent day (finally) so managed to take a few shots of my C8.2 on my AR.

Now I only have to figure out how to post them :person_facepalming:

- any sticky post on how do post images (the easiest free way please)? Thanks!

With MUCH thanks to MRsDNF!!!

Here is the AR-15 “Pig Rig” in a 6.8 SPC with the great C8.2 light attached to it’s scope via a small rail.

For those who hunt pigs at night, this is a popular caliber & set-up as of late. The bullet is a smaller weight version of the famous 270 Winchester, used in a smaller case (thus, with lower velocities). But out to 200 yards- it kills pigs (very tough critters) better that a standard AR 15 .223 bullet. With the C8.2 light attached, a full sized scope (for longer shots), a red dot (for close, fast shots- which OFTEN occur on a pig hunt!), and 10 round magazine… it comes in JUST under 10 lbs.

I use night vision to SEE the pigs first, then set-up for the shot— then… “hit the light!” Enjoy…

This LAST pic is me holding the C 8.2 light out a few inches (detached from it’s rail)

Late Edit: I still need to finish the Lexel LED pressure switch mod for this gun AND would have IF I didn’t decide to change lights to a C8F Sofirn (I’m waiting on parts for). As my wife loves the C8.2 (I remounted for this pic today), “that’s the way she goes, eh?” SO… more pics WHEN I get that light on (and wired). But wanted SaltWater to see how I used these neat little (scope mounting) rails… as he asked so nicely :wink:

So you guys hunt with AR rifles… That is cool. You live in a good part of the world. :slight_smile:
In Europe most if not all Europe countries forbids owning/usage of any kind of AR rifle.
That is considered as military weapon and you can only legally use it if you are soldier/police officer and only while on duty.

Imgur should work. Click “insert image” next to “insert video” tab and copy paste your link and that is it :wink:

Edit: You see. You figured that out :wink:

I figured out I had to use a “special” URL (for forum use), so all good and thanks for the tip!

I ONLY own ONE AR and I’m NOT a fan of the assault mentality at all. But I HAVE hunted pigs for a LONG time and they are a varmint- not a deer or “game” and so land owners (and for me, family with land) who allow me to hunt on their land— do so because they want ALL the pigs you can kill, killed!

So, when one runs into a BUNCH of pigs (which you usually do), a semi-auto is a LOT faster than cycling a bolt rifle and so more pigs die. I prefer ONE good shot (usually to the neck) from a bold rifle for any other animal I eat— but for pigs, I built this gun. And NOW I have a decent C8.2 on it AND with my scope being better glass— it’s functional as I need for pig hunting at any distance in this caliber.

And another thing about this C8.2 light (and some who say it’s not a hunting light)… No, it’s not a LONG thrower, but it gets out there real good WITH a good scope. AND it gives excellent side-to-side light… so IF you get into a CLOSE group of pigs (often enough), you can see WIDE enough to acquire Piggies #2 and #3 at closer to 50 - 100 yards.

SO JUST like a scope… the right light for the job DEPENDS on WHAT you need. And as I’ve also said several times (in several posts)… I am not going to mount a 2 lb light on an 8 lb gun I HUNT with (meaning walk MANY miles, carrying it hours at a time at night) and this C8.2 is just right in size… and what it does (for me). Love it!

Nice rig . What light is that C8.2 ? I missed that .