Weapon Light

LED Flashlights – General Info
1

New to flashlights, but I’m learning. I have searched the forum for answers, but didn’t find anything that answered my question fully. I’m looking for a budget (obviously), single-mode weapon light with as much throw as possible. It is for an AR-15. I’d like to keep the budget under $30, but am willing to go higher if it is worth it.

During my search, I saw someone recommend the KDLIGHT C8 XP-L HI V3 6500K for a weapon light. Then I saw the C8.2. Would one of these be better than the other? What would be the difference between the HI and the HD?

What other recommendations do you have? I am not a modder, but I am willing to try some simple mods if need be. Not so simple mods if it’s worth it.

Other questions: Battery recommendations? Also, the light will stay attached to the weapon and I don’t want to take time to put a battery in the light in the event I have to get it out, so what is the best way to store the light?

Thanks in advance.

2

What light mounts are you using…?

Hi is high intensity, a factory dedomed led, better for longer throw
HD is high density, slightly more lumen but less throw.

What purpose is your ar15 for…?

3

Hey Copperhead,
Welcome to flashlights. Your choice of a C8 is right on for a weapon light. You can find a package on eBay for cheap, and prolly Chinese junk. Or you can let me set you up with a nice Convoy C8 with a XM L U2 led is 6500k - 7000k color, and around 1100 - 1200 lumens. With pressure switch, weapon mount for picatinny rail, batteries, good batteries not some Ultrafire trash and a smart charger for $35.00 shipped. You might decide later down the road when you become more,familiar with led,s and flashlights you want to upgrade the C8 to a bad boy XHP35 with lotsa lumen and bigtime,throw. Toss it around and let me know if you are interested. I guarantee all my stuff for a year.

4

Dang, haven’t seen anywhere that could beat that deal…

Go for it Copperhead…

5

That is a pretty good deal. It’s actually cost. I figured give him a deal. He’s new to flashlights and maybe we can make a flashaholic out of him. Haha! I got a buncha hosts from Richard at Mountain so I can throw a led in there, share some of my Samsung 30 Q and a 2 slot smart charger I got in a review for product trade on Amazon. I usually would buy more than one item with the codes sent to me to buy the item for cheap and do a review on it. I’ve got over 4000 items, Bluetooth speakers and headphones, action cameras, ip security cameras, spy hidden cameras, rifle scopes, red dot sights, hunting arrows, broad heads, camping and tactical gear. Backpacks, smart watches, digital watches, you name it I got a little of everything.

6

Wow! Ok…

What light mounts are you using? I have an S&W M&P15 Sport. It doesn’t have rails on the handguard (yet!). I was planning on getting an Elzetta flashlight holder.

What purpose is your ar15 for? Varmints. Animal and human.

SubSailorVet, much appreciated. I am sure that I won’t be able to find a better deal. I will message you later, if that works for you.

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Sounds good man. When ever you’re ready, in the meantime I’ll pm you some pictures of your new rig. Gimme a little time to finish some things and I’ll post them up later.

8

Just a suggestion (that you’re welcome to take for what it costs you), but for almost the same price as the elzetta, you could get a magpul carbine-length mlok handguard, and the mlok mount for a light. I think that would give you a lot more flexibility, and a nicer handguard. I love my magpul furniture.

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If you have a standard front sight , this rail will put your tail switch perfectly positioned for thumb press without the need for pressure switch .

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Thanks. That looks very good.

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Thank you. That looks interesting. I bought my AR a few years ago and am just now starting to do anything with it.

12

Greetings and Happy New Year Everyone! Delighted to find this post as I am now about five hours into what I’m sure will be my next “habit” :heart_eyes:

The comments here instantly caught my attention as I was digging around this site looking for info on long throw lighting for my new “pig rig” (6.8 caliber AR 15 build). I hunt Texas pigs for several good friends with pig problems down there (and what great meat it is!). Anyway, this rifle is the first (and last) AR type gun I’ll be owning as it is needed for super fast follow-up shots I haven’t been able to make with my bold guns (pig hunting is all about taking them all out- and they haul butt after the first shot! So an auto-loader is now built and I’m scoping and lighting it now for the hunts this spring).

Background: 7th gen. ranch kid with tech background and soldering station: A born cheapskate (all ranchers are if they actually “ranched” Vs. selling oil :wink: and I have built 100s of miles of fence, fixed about everything on a ranch (with rubber tube strips and baling wire)- and I’m used to making due with what I have. I’ve also built many electronic kits (Opamps for studio pre-amps, whole tube-amp kits, microphone kits, etc) as a former sound studio owner. So, I may have to grab my tech bag and clear a spot on the bench for a light build after I get a few things figured out.

Basically… I have always come back to the old adage that, “when you want something done right, you got to do it yourself.” I am learning that is the case with these LED lights. SubSailorVet was mentioning some fast info on tweaks to this C8 light and I have now studied most of the options on Mountain Electronic’s site. I’m feeling like a custom build is probable at this point but I want to ask you guys about the cost benefit of DYI Vs. just buying a higher end light.

So first question: IS it worth it when you get past a certain price point to just buy Vs build? I ask because I’m thinking what I want is going to cost about $50 - $70 in the market (or more) but IF I could build a smaller frame light than the C8 (must have pressure switch) that will truly light up the field out to 225 or so yards (for a fast shot thought a scope), that is what I am contemplating right now. But before I spend any more time researching I thought I’d ask you guys your opinion on this build I am thinking about.

Everything gets more costly as size reduces and I am thinking the L6 Host is 4 times the C8 build because of this. But I really want to keep the size of the reflector down so this light can sit tighter to the frame (just right of the scope itself) off a 45 degree short rail which will go UNDER the scope (mounting between the tall scope mounts). So, the plan is to have that light almost touching the scope’s bell; so it needs to be thin (like this L6 kit looks to be) so it doesn’t interfere with the view through the scope.

I also have a great collection of re-purposed (and tested) 18650s from laptops, drills and other sources: Samsung, LG, Sony- no junk. I have used these for interesting projects using neat stuff from China (fans, motion detected solar lighting, etc.) where you take the junk battery out, toss it, and solder in a good cell. So I’d like to stick with those batteries as they are in good supply already.

In my mind… the light I THINK I want is smaller at the bell end, holds TWO 18650s, turns ON (at FULL power only, not SOS, no dim, just “on” when the pressure switch is “pressed”). I’m guessing this light is probably going to get very hot at the bell end- so heat sinks, reliable wiring, and a rugged’ized design is a must. Of course, its has to run for a good 45 minutes or so too (I would pack spare batteries as needed for all night hunts but from what I read this is doable).

What I am still wondering about is voltage (6v or 12v?), extension tubes (needed or not?), reflector type (guessing milled metal for heat dissipation), and the little “tricks” you guys know about (through hard knocks!). Any advice on a L6 kit (or another option out there) would be greatly appreciated! I’m not needing to go L6 here BTW, and if the C8 can work with another reflector (maybe smaller???), or if there is another frame I could look at- I am all ears (and would love to save money over that L6 frame too)!

Thanks in advance for any ideas you have for me. I have about 6 weeks to get this built so no super rush, but I’d like to source parts sooner than later and “savor them” before putting them together :beer:

And if SubSailorVet is building free lights still…? :sunglasses:

Cheers Ears!

13

Copperhead and Zappaman I am new to this group also, my brother told me years ago there was a flashlight web sight, run by nerds that put way to much thought into flashlights, he was impressed by this website and I am loving it.
Here is my picks for a weapon light so far, I chose this for the lack of modes and brightness.
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025181.KDLIGHT-C8-XPLHI-Cree-XP-L-HI-V3-6500K-White-1100-Lumens-1-Mode

And something similar to this, just to check out the brightness.
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S027413.KDLITKER-C8_2-Cree-XHP35-HD-White-6500K-2200-Lumens-5-Mode
There are different led options, but why not buy one of each.

My thoughts are use an aluminum side mount that puts the flashlight at 10 o’clock of the hand guard. I have not checked for fit.
So far I have bought a basic conway C8 and L6 from gear best, if you don’t have a L6 you need to get one it is awesome.

I have gifted 5 of the C8’s for Christmas.

From reading on here I have decided against two lith-ion batteries. In case the recoil causes a battery to become unstable.
I am very new to all this, and still not sure if unprotected batteries are okay in the L6.
Also I have only used the 6500 light and not played with the other tones.

These are my thoughts, I am a Led flashlight beginner these other guys are a wealth of knowledge for sure.

Corey

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I would not put a boost driver like the C8 50.2 on a weapon if you don’t plan to pot the driver to get it recoil proof

XPL HI Convoy C8 has a fairly simple driver with 8 AMC7135 in parallel, so if one breaks you wont be left in the dark like on a boost driver

I also recommend the Biscotti firmware you can program to just one mode with an external pressure switch
I made recently a version you do not loose output by the remote switch, as it uses a FET

If you want keep it very simple you can get out the driver for XPL HI and just use the tail switch assembly for one mode

15

Thanks Lexel,
Now for more reading, BLF is awesome.

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Are these KDLIGHTs potted ? Quality wise , are they as good as a Convoy ?

17

Thanks OKCorey… I feel at home right away when someone mentions “nerd” or “radio shack” :+1:

I’ve made a few assumptions (questions) so far:

— If I “hot rod” me a light, I’m going to go through batteries fast, thus the idea of using two batteries. CAN I treat the batteries: (tape them together) or use some kind of conductive assisting method (a thin walled tube housing— or something like that)?

Lexel… I’ve potted transformers- total mess! But at this scale I’d just use a small amount of epoxy, right? But if potted a C8 50.2 as you suggest, could I use something that was removable (in the event I had to replace it later?) Or, would I just buy a few parts otherwise and keep them handy as I need them perhaps? Any other options in between a loose fit and potting (like putty or aluminum tape)?

OKCorey… On the bezel finish… If going for throw, shouldn’t I be going for a smooth (Vs. textured) finish? I looked at both lights you listed (thanks!)… they both showed a textured bezel, so confused a bit there. Also, 2200 lumens sounds GOOD (on light #2)… so how would this second light compare to the L6? Would the L6 have something this modified C 8.2 doesn’t?

I have a smaller picatinny rail (smooth forward handle has no rail points) and my only option is to use a double sided rail that goes between the two main scope mounts— leaving a 45 degree mount point (about 1.5” long) off either side— under the scope. SO I NEED TO USE a light that I can set into standard 1” or 30mm scope ring mount— so I can work with different lengths to “tune” the light’s distance away from the barrel and scope (at 10 O’ clock as you suggest). OR… if you know of something better with my limitation (no forward rails), I’m interested.

-Russ

18

I started a thread a while back talking about people who have weapon mounted lights. I posted a few pictures of my setup as well. Check it out: What light do you have mounted to your rifle?

The mount is made by Elzetta, and it works perfectly :+1:

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Thanks Yourrld!!! Simple is better… and you have me thinking a totally different route now!

After seeing your rig, I am seriously thinking about mounting this light under my handle and WAY forward (out of the way of everything else including a red dot RMR I WILL be mounting at a 45 angle on the left side at 10 O’ clock between the scope and receiver). The forward free floating handle is perfectly round on my firearm; and it is smooth and goes out 12 1/2” from the receiver. I think I’ll drill and mount a small rail under it where the light could mount— staying behind the barrel’s (18”) muzzle a good bit too.

With this config change… this would ALSO allow me to use a larger light (I was trying to stay SMALL to keep it tight under the scope). I’m guessing the larger the reflector- the longer the range in any case, correct?

So now the C 8.2 is back in for consideration and I’m now wondering how best to “fortify” and “tweak” an 8.2 (or TBD model) best for this hunting rig. This said…if I can spend a bit more for a smaller light to start with (L6), I’d still like to maybe go this route. So the L6 is still on radar as I’m still not sure if I want as large a reflector head out front under the gun. But a clear, even view- at least 40-50 feet wide at 225 yards without donuts… is the goal here.

Thanks all for your ideas so far guys, I REALLY appreciate them! I’m ready to build a real rugged light and want to see out at 225 yards C8.2 or L6 or ??? Ready to solder, pot or do whatever it takes :+1:

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for a weapon I would suggest a thrower like C8 with XPL Hi or aspheric Brinythe B158