A Convoy S2+ driven at 3A or more???
Even with 8*7135 (2.8A) it must get burning hot after 5 minutes!?
By the way, can you please give me a link to a thread to flash the software? (just curious) 
That actually could be useful. Throw a flashlight into a mug of water to boil it. :party:
I think I’ll go with 3, 4 or 6.
I always go with 8. There’s lower modes for when it gets too hot or you just want a lower brightness.
In what situation do you use the full 2.8A mode?
Yes, it gets hot quite soon. I'm using 2 minute turbo timer and drop down to PWM level 100 (in scale 0-255)
Here's one thread about a pretty good "turbo timer"-firmware.
Just got two orders from convoy-flashlight - s2+ and s8. I really like S8, S2+ is awesome too but for some reason I don’t like tail switch. Sometimes it’s hard to switch it on/off with a thumb. I guess I will have to take it apart and take a look on it. I hope it can be fixed. Otherwise price and quality (other than switch) is great.
Thank you.
The convoy S8 has also the switch on the tail cap. I don’t understand. :S
About that turbo mode. Instead of using a timer, wouldn’t it be better to use a temperature sensor? That way you can use turbo as long as the temp is below a threshold. I’m sure that some micro controllers have built in temp sensors. Or not?
Temperature sensor would be cool, but then again, timer works well enough. And if you want to use it as a hand warmer, you can always click it back to turbo with a single click. :)
I know. It feels like there is something wrong with my unit but that should be easy enough to fix.
Yea, temperature sensor would be awesome. I don’t like a timer because I often use my lights on bike and then heat is not an issue but that IS a problem when someone else take my light.
In almost every situation I use max output. The only time I back any light down is too much heat or if I’m working in really close quarters.
Mine is the same way. Really weak clicky like they used too long of a spacer or the wrong boot or something simple like that. It shouldn’t be difficult to fix. Apart from that though it is perfect; I love this little thing, easy to see how so many use it as an EDC.
After playing with mine more, the clicky is a bit hard to press on mine as well. I opened it up and found a metal washer (one that looked really beat up and had rust on it... not sure what that's about). I replaced the washer with a new one and tried putting in a forward clicky from IOS, but it was physically too long and prevented the retaining ring from screwing back on. I've gone back to the original switch for the time being.
I found a thinner washer to replace the thick, beat up, rusty washer that came in it. I kept the same reverse clicky. With the thinner washer, the clicky is much easier to operate.
Thanks for the tip. I didn't have a thinner washer on hand but figured it would help. It feels like there's a gap between the top of the clicky switch and the rubber boot. The forward clicky that I tried is longer, but too long. I'll check the hardware store sometime.
Definitely a gap between the boot and switch on mine. I’ve got a few different boots that have larger solid rubber contact points that should do the trick. They over tightened the crap out of the retaining ring on mine though. :\
The retaining ring is reverse threaded, so you have to turn it clockwise.
[quote=locusto03]
Thank you, I was going to look that up just now. By now I’ve probably over tightened it, lol.
Replaced the thick washer with a much thinner one. Nice and firm switch now.
No problem! I turned it the wrong way myself before recalling reading something about a reverse-threaded retaining ring. Luckily, I didn't put too much force into it initially. I wasn't able to find a washer thin enough at the store, so I ended up cutting a couple pieces of plastic from a clamshell package and putting it between the rubber boot and switch. It's much better now.
how on earth is anyone supposed to ever know about reverse threading on an item? Crazy stupid.
Got both mine great light, great edc. Thanks Simon