I was thinking 6x7135 in xm-l2 on noctigon, should be similar to my output with less heat, how reliable are protection circuits, i’ve only used single cell lights so i’ve never looked into them
I assume loctite is cheap
Is a nitecore i2/i4 a dependable enough charger or can you recommend a better one? Very good point on the incorrect installation, i can guarantee that will happen, anyone know if the nitecores can handle that?
I’m hoping that starry light pouts out 980 lumens, that sony charger is available again at a local store, and target may have more duraloops
The nitecores have reverse protection WRT protection circuits, if soley depended on, in general, they overcharge the cell a little and cut off pretty close to the minimum recommended voltage (2.5V) for LiIons. They ARE however a far better option than allowing the ‘human battery protection circuit’ of your friend to determine when to stop using a light. lol. In rock climbing, safety systems are always doubled up so if one fails, there’s another to keep you alive. In the oil industry, safety systems are sometimes trippled because millions could be at stake if shit happens. Qlite + protection is the way to go for mr careless. J)
You have no idea how many times i have wanted to say this :bigsmile:
You will get no argument from me, i’m not convinced these two put together will be enough, and mr pyro has shown its almost impossible to destroy eneloops, he wired double digit amps into it without incident
the I2 is a perfectly good charger, termination on mine is at 4.15v and termination current is so small that you could leave the battery on the charger for a couple hours after all three bars go solid.
the HXY is not a good charger. HKJ reported it had no termination and on mine the voltage where the indicators change color is inconsistent.
Bort, this charming fellow you’re buying a light for, does he have a significant other or children? Because I’d just give him a 4/5/6 x 7135 M1, two protected cells of your choice, and a I2. And if he does something incredibly stupid and burns the house down while he’s sleeping…well, maybe he’ll win the 2014 Darwin Award. I have little sympathy or damns to give for willfully or obstinately stupid people. Give him what he wants and let nature take its course.
You can put in a driver that handles up to 6v and have it run on two CR123s. That way there’s no danger involved, and no charger. He can buy new CR123s anywhere. Case closed.
I’m doing this same thing for a friend that just needs a good light to peer in through studs and joists to see what’s behind them. It will mostly be in his toolbox, and the cells should last a while. The lithium CR123s can also be left in his truck and will not be affected by freezing.
He could also try to get his fireplace going by pouring gasoline on it.
There’s a point where you just have to let Mother Nature weed out the gene pool.
I went back and looked for that. All I could find was his review of the 4.35V model. I did find another review by Overclocker that seemed to indicate Version 2 of that charger was acceptible. There was some concern from one member who noticed his was charging to 4.25V. On the one that I have been using for about 8 months, it is still terminating at 1.19V-1.2V exactly, even if the cell is left in it for a number of additional hours. Looks like I may have gotten lucky, or perhaps V2 of the charger is improved.
Leaving the battery for a couple hours after termination is not good enough, i assume it will stay on the charger for days, as a failsafe i have to assume even months it may get forgotten on the charger
No significant other or children, but i can’t give a loaded gun to a child (figuratively) and wash my hands of it, which is why i like the NiMH option if it has the output needed.
4 AA ..well made ..beautiful beam with lots of throw ,no funky pwm,spectacularneutral white 4b tint and much better color renditioning . 4 well thought out modes , forward clicky and a seperate button for changing modes ,a strobe that is just horrid it is the most siezure inducing strobe I've ever seen .
Given that your mate is likely to break/blow up/hurt themselves why not get a dedicated work light AA powered but cheaper than Li-Ion + charger by a long way but most of all safer.
It doesn’t have enough lumens, about 700 or more to fill the task of worklight, but the starry light does look a lot like that fenix, perhaps thats what its a clone of 8)
@8steve88 Its been my experience those 5mm led lights are well under 50 lumens
LiFePO4’s are supposed to be a lot safer, although they terminate at about 3.7V, and generally have less capacity. Would not be as bright as a regular Lion, but will your friend notice the difference? I have a few and give them to my wife to use in flashlights I lend to her.
the price went up, its not quite bright enough and brightness falls as soon as you hit the on switch, if it were i would sell him my cyclone C88 which seems to be the predecessor to that light, 3AA, XM-L U2, same driver, if it were 4AA i would definitely go for it
I’m personally thinking that a flashlight is not a good idea for this task anyways (not just for this fellow), an hour of runtime is not enough, and i’ve been doing some basement work with my convoy s2 on medium, and when the battery dies 1.5hr later the one on the charger is still not ready (1000mA ML-102 charger)
Edit: @Metalophile i was thinking i would go with a lower drive current because he won’t notice and reduced heat production for a small head flashlight is a bonus for a non flashaholic. In this case the biggest things are cost and safety, i have given a few lights as gifts so far but they have been 1AA lights, if people could not handle alkaline then they would be injured long before i came along, and the batteries are easy to get, and they can upgrade to eneloop at their convenience if ever. In this case 100-150 lumens are insufficient, otherwise a klarus p1a as a flashlight for general use is hard to beat.
WRT protection circuits, if soley depended on, in general, they overcharge the cell a little and cut off pretty close to the minimum recommended voltage (2.5V) for LiIons. They ARE however a far better option than allowing the ‘human battery protection circuit’ of your friend to determine when to stop using a light. lol. In rock climbing, safety systems are always doubled up so if one fails, there’s another to keep you alive. In the oil industry, safety systems are sometimes trippled because millions could be at stake if shit happens. Qlite + protection is the way to go for mr careless. J)
:bigsmile: 