Pet peeve of mine, especially for larger lights. Add on another button to allow cycling through modes low to high, or high to low in both directions.
Sharp edges. If my fingers are going to get scratched up by it, it's never going in my pocket.
Lights that do not work with flat top batteries.
And my #1 pet peeve - THE BATTERY CARRIERS ARE TOO SMALL! I have no choice but to use unprotected batteries in some of my lights due to size limitations. I wish manufacturers would take note of the fact that 18650 batteries have gotten quite a bit larger. If they are worried about batteries rattling around, provide some spacers instead.
1) tactical… i am SOOOOO sick of everything being “tactical”. The only thing i can see “tactical” ACTUALLY means anymore? is the switch is on the tailcap.
2) tailcap switches? are a fine thing… if the light is truly about “hand sized”… if its a 1x18650 light? it makes sense… it does NOT make sense on a 3-D light, lol… i have an otherwise “pretty cool” 2x18650 light that i really like? except, its a little awkward to swing it out the window to sweep house numbers, and manipulate the tailcap switch. ANy light once it hits a certain size? the side switch makes more sense.
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in general? i would LIKE to see something loosely resembling a standardization. I dont expect all manufacturers to lego? but… if i buy a “z9” light from company A… i should be able to count on buying a drop in pill “for a z9” from company B… and expect it all to work.
specifically? I am into Infrared Illuminators… i need them for night vision. WHY i cant have anything resembling a selection of emitters to choose from? i dont know. As it is right now? The oslon 8516s is about the only game in town… and? like magic, all vendors claim not to know anything about the bin numbers on the oslon IR 8516s…
(yeah right, lol…)
the WHOLE rest f the LED industry has BIN numbers? and no one seems to realize the oslon 8516s has BIN numbers for brightness too? tell me another one… its RIGHT in the data sheet… kinda hard to miss it, actually.
It holds true for flashlight bodies too. Shaving a mm here and there shouldn't be done at the expense of having to shop by trial and error for batteries to power the damn thing.
A perfect example is my Olight S10. Great light but rendered non waterproof by Keepower 16340s because the tailcap can't screw down far enough to meet the O-ring. I really couldn't give a rodent's furry little bottom if making it 5mm longer removed some kind of "I've got this really small light" bragging rights.
In addition to everything mentioned above, better heatsinking, better soldering, centered LED’s, forward clicky, artifact free/clean lenses and reflectors, better job anodizing, especially on the higher priced lights.
I've said the same thing in another thread. There should be at least three buttons. An on/off, and separate up and down buttons. Separate up and down buttons would also work for infinitely variable output. The next step would be pressure sensitive buttons so that ramping speed (or maybe acceleration) would vary depending on how hard you press the button.
Control rings can serve the same function, but are terrible in dirty environments.
Manufacturers not declaring brand of UV emitters or optic. For higher power and 365nm wavelength it’s a crucial selling point.
It’s IPX8 not IPX-8! There is no dash in ingress protection standard. But it’s usually marketing copypasta anyway and probably just splashproof. :zipper_mouth_face: