L2 love here, too. Put the SFT40 in there with a Led4Power driver and Simon’s new plastic lighted switches, 26800 single. I wonder what I will ever do with the old LD29 driver…those seem to have disappeared for good now.
Nice! What are you driving the blues at? I have some XT-E royals (453nm I think) from Digikey waiting for a blue T3 host to arrive. I’ve done a lot of exploring with UV lights and mods, curious to see what the royal blue picks up outdoors.
Thanks! They all use the 17mm Fet +7135 driver from Mountain Electronics. The emitters are using a Noctigon 3xp mcpcb. I don’t run them at Turbo, and they run just fine at the lower settings. However the only light that really doesn’t like to be driven hard is the Far Red one. It is good at the lower settings, but will start stepping down quickly if driven hard. When Simon releases his driver for Red emitters with multiple modes, I might try it. The Royal Blue and the Green will go turbo and light up the room with vivid color lol.
I’m looking forward to that blue-room. I don’t know if I’ve ever experienced that deep royal blue color up close (maybe at a concert?). I got extras to play with but I’ll probably run the stock T3 driver. I could only find the current Cree datasheet and it appears to have bins that are higher than what was probably on a previous version…could only find those previous lower bins for sale, too. So I’m not sure if the thermal resistance or max current is the same (sheet says 1.5A, graphs look good though). If one goes pop then I’ll regroup. I may do up a C8F triple with them, too.
I love all the colored lights lately, and matching hosts to boot. The C8 family that tactical grizzly did was pretty awesome to look at.
I did a refresh on an smooth bodied Emisar D4 today. Brought it up to date with Anduril 2 and reflowed in some lovely warm Nichia 219B SW 3500K.
No native Aux’s though, so that mod ’ll be for another day.
Timing!
I have been wondering just this week whether to do this, any idea what the throw is like compared to the XP-L HI?
I held off installing a dedomed SST-40 a couple of years ago because there were different ideas floating around as to whether these did or didn’t work with the reflector.
This week i decided to install either an SFT-40 or a CULNM1 to find out what happens, but haven’t decided which yet.
On mine the deep reflector and domed LH351D is a perfect beam. I would suspect a dedomed LED on what was originally a big XML led would not be as nice but i’m no expert on this light.
agree, that is why I do not dedome 519a in V11r
V11r reflector on left, showing the supersized base hole, on right is a V10r reflector (from a light that came originally with XP-G. these reflectors work perfectly w 219b)
beam comparison:
it Might be possible to use a dedome, IF the mcpcb is raised about 0.5mm. It may also be necessary to remove the stock centering ring (which means centering the LED by eye), and replace with kapton tape, or one of these nifty stickers
Lifting the LED has worked for me when using E21a and also 219b in V11r. I kept the stock centering ring on those mods. I have used 5x layered thermal tape, between the mcpcb and shelf. The tape also helped me to hold the mcpcb where I wanted it to be, to center the LED by eye.
Another way I gain height of the LED is the mcpb I use is 1.5mm, while stock is 1mm… but the centering ring creates its own spacing between the mcpcb and reflector base, hence lifting the LED does not necessarily move it closer to the reflector… it migh just raise the height of the stack (mcpcb + centering ring + reflector + lens), which is revealed by a slightly larger gap at the bezel.
the V11r assembly also uses a shim below the reflector, this could be removed to lower the reflector. (shown here on a V10r Ti+, that uses the same XML as the V11r)
disclaim, I have not tried removing that shim… proceed with caution…
here is a full modding sequence album for that V10r Ti+