Oh. I haven’t been paying attention, didn’t realise they were making silver. I’m interested to know about this Mao batch since they reported it to be below their expectations.
here is a user report:
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/xcjm3x/pas_protect_your_ts10_mao_when_you_unscrew_the/
Love this thread!
Blocked from posting on it though because of my inorganisation with sorting out the relevant photos.
Any inclination to see what happens when you put the driver into direct drive mode?
Probably, the tail switch starts to get mushy…
Right, current draw direct can soar past 22A with a really good cell and thus, run time is atrocious! Constant current had it’s appeal here to, in a small way, control the run time.
I found the fix for my Shocker build, from Del to djozz some time back… an added resistor in a tombstone triad and problem solved! Now doing 5340 lumens and 595Kcd via three SFT40 emitters. (Molicel P42 18650’s are doing this, newer cells and maybe one of a few choices in better cells may show more)
Edit: I have a couple of X6’s with the 90.2 that pull 25A and make upwards of 6,000 lumens. The Samsung 25S is the only 18650 I’ve found that can do this.
FWAA with high power/efficiency AA/li-ion boost driver :
More detail on my thread : thefreeman’s HDR Anduril 2 high efficiency drivers - update : FWxA boost driver - #319 by thefreeman
Thrunite Ti3 Ti NW
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The light arrived in non working order, spring was squashed, pill was threaded too deep (head would touch body when screwed down), the Tint and CRI was disgusting, and the body looked rough.
mod to 519a:
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replaced O ring, added extra thick Nyogel 767a to reduce thread slop and eliminate gritty Ti thread feeling.
Replaced reflector with Tir to eliminate tint shift (greenish yellow corona around hotspot), and gain some pill depth reduction (head no longer bottoms out on body). Stretched the spring back out, and hand polished the host. It looks much nicer now, and operates much better.
Opple data w reflector
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Opple data w Tir
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album with more pics…
This is a mod that turned out really well. Im very happy with it.
The light is now a pleasure to use, looks good, and feels good in hand.
How did you get the TIR?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832436789535.html
25 degree pebbled Tir… how to remove from holder:
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Modded a Sofirn Q8 Pro this afternoon. I really disliked the beam profile of the XHP-50.2 emitters so, figuring it was similar power I pulled those ugly emitters and re-flowed SFT40’s in their place. Replaced the tail spring board with an original Q8 board with bypassed springs. On Molicell P28A 18650’s it now makes 9140 lumens in a tighter whiter beam. Much better!
Edit: Forgot to mention that while I was in there I swapped the leads for 16 ga Superworm. 
I modified Fireflylite PL09 quad for 6V boost driver. Driver I used is TheFreemans BST21 and I built it for 6V output.
Then I modified pcb for 2S2P
I also changed switch in a way that all leds are controlled by Attiny1616. In the picture it’s still wired in a way, that 2 of 4 leds are always on.
Original aux board needed to be lifted up because of jumper underneath it. Plastic washer did the trick. I also changed all 16 0402 10kR resistors to 300R ones. Stock orangle leds were invisible on low mode. Now they are barely visible. Main leds are 519A’s in 4000/5700 mix.
That’s all. Should be about 3000 high cri lumens with 5000mAh Samsung 50S battery. So long runtime because of big battery and high efficiency and still able to achieve big output. About 6V2A seems to be pretty sustainable.
Modded a KDIY K12 SST20 4000k CRI95 to accept a 20mm LED PCB with a LH351D 5700k CRI90. Not a planned mod, I stuffed up the LH351D order and it was the only flashlight I wasn’t satisfied with that I could fit the 20mm board in… Stock size is 16mm, I filed down the 16mm recess on the brass pill until the surface was flat and elongated the holes for the wiring from the driver. That allows the 20mm board to fit.
It’s looking really promising- a more neutral colour, brighter and more spread. I’ll try it outside tonight.
FYI the KDIY was easy to pull apart- nothing glued. Even the LED board had grease rather than adhesive. http://kaidomain.com/KDIY-K12-SST-20-1000-Lumens-LED-Flashlight
Update- it was well worth the effort. Same driver, but the LH351D has more spread and more throw than the SST20. That was probably my first and last SST20.
Stock pill 16mm SST20 400k CRI95
Pill recess for 16mm driver removed, holes for driver wires elongated to clear 20mm LED PCB
20mm LH351D 5700k CRI 90 LED fitted
Couldn’t resist the Sofirn SC31 Pro in a gorgeous purple! Advertised at 2000 lumens via an SST40 it made 1830 lumens with the supplied 3000 mAh 18650. On lower levels in Anduril the tint was a little sickly, so, since I have emitters to choose from… fixed it!
Of course, NOW they start with the glue!
As it’s a small tube light, the SST20 is on a 16mm MCPCB. Made my emitter preference harder but still doable
Driver is a nice assembly that slides into slots, well braced for the type C charging port.
Spent a little time burning my fingertips… had a 90.2 on a 20 mm board, my belt sander took care of that in pretty short order.
Tadaa! A nicely filled reflector! Had to pop the window and it’s frame off the big die so the reflector would work well with it. Carved the opening at a slight bevel to make sure it played nicely with all those exposed bond wires! Now it makes 2920 lumens with the Sofirn cell, a new 25S though, wow! 3650 lumens! I didn’t even put larger leads on the driver! Very satisfying!
Great photos. Congrats on the mod… :+1:
Goodness! Any beamshots, perchance?
Armytek Viking pro XHP50 Warm modded to XHP50.3 HI 4000k 90cri. Once I picked up a three-way watch case wrench the rest was cake.
The HI
Original emitter
Beam profile with the HI
congrats on your mod… which wrench did you find helpful?
Just the cheap Pittsburg watch case opener from HF. Maybe not 100% the best tool for the job but with some care, ores is ion and brute force it worked well.
thank you 
How did you removed the reflector?