It’s because the aux board is powered directly from battery and not the MCU. So LVP and resistors/pots, etc all present on the board to function independently of driver.
Is it possible to change the LED that lights the switch on the copper EDC18?
It may be possible, but:
1/ I couldn’t manage to pop the ring out without risking to break the rubber boot of the switch
2/ the wires between main board and switch are extremely thin and they may break when trying to remove the board
3/ desoldering and resoldering switch LEDs and wires seems quite difficult on that very small aux board
4/ part of the process needs to be done “in place” as the aux board comes from the outer of the flashlight and wires go through the body to reach main board
Conclusion: I gave up and kept stock green switch LEDs
Can you explain more about please?
So these were designed by Lexel ( [SALE] FW3A lighted TIR board multicolored with LVP, stabilized or High/low ) originally to work as a modded part that’s why it has so many components on the board.
Some of the other more recent aux board styles use power/control/everything directly from the newer MCU’s so it can basically just be a dumb board with LED and a few resistors where as these from the E07 have low voltage protection, power regulation, etc all built into the board. Because the board is self sufficient it really only has on/off as far as the driver is concerned.
swap out refector for 20mm, 30 degree Pebbled Tir for xml
That looks nice Jon! Did you have any fitment issues going from reflector to TIR?
Jon you mentioned a few times you can’t set the white balance on your photos.
You can get manual white balance on the iPhone with other apps, search for:
White Balance Camera Apps iOS
I have ProCam 8 and I like it. I got it because the ipad can’t record VGA videos directly and it shows red stripes if it’s overexposed. I bougt only the basic version, no extra modules.
Auto white balance: tap into the viewfinder
Manual: tab the yellow AWB and use the slider
App Sliced to track prices and alarms:
Most of other “free” Apps are with adds or subscriptions and ProCam has photo and video functions.
(Yes a bit pricy, but less than the Opple)
So if I understand, my old e07 is more good than a new e07 with direct power for the aux?
I’m not too sure how the new E07 works but I wouldn’t say it’s better or worse just different. One has extra flexibility with the potentiometers but you lose ability to do high and low or choose individual colors (in Emisar’s case for example).
Not really… I removed the centering ring and glass lens, this made the bezel tighten 1/2 turn tighter. No other adjustments
here is the album SC21 Pro w sw30 and pebbled Tir - Album on Imgur
I use ambient light to allow my iPhone to set its Auto White balance. This works very well for me, as it shows what the LED Color and Tint look like in daytime and night time ambient light.
Since I do not take photos in a dark room, I do not need manual white balance. imo taking photos in ambient light actually works very well to show color and tint. It also lets us see the flashlight.
My Opple lets me show both the Ambient and the Flashlight color temp and duv, to help explain why a warm white LED changes its apparent color during the day, vs at night.
Hey @jon_slider, it looks like the “[/quote]” needs to be on its own line with nothing else after it otherwise it breaks the quoting and you see the underlying code. Just one of the many quirks/bugs of the Discourse forum software.
[quote=“jon_slider, post:11570, topic:37376, username:jon_slider”]
I removed the centering ring…
[/quote] la la la
good info, thanks
Should and e-switch light draw current when the LED PCB is removed? I have a D25LR and did a LED swap but after putting things together something seems to be shorting since the light gets warm while off after a while. Not sure if it was like this before the LED swap but I only noticed it now.
Tested different batteries and shows the same issue. There is an 87ma draw in the D25LR whereas my D25S only has a 0.00032ma draw when off(using an aneng AN8008 if it matters).
I have not checked the driver yet as the cover is being stubborn so just asking for info before I mutilate this light further.
Yes, the e-switch drivers will consume a little current even without a load (or a potential load) because they need to stay awake and wait for a signal (or things like voltage monitoring, etc). It should be very little, though, like >50uA and probably a lot less since it’s a simpler driver with no aux lighting. 87mA says something is wrong. Check for shorts…solder spatter, wire insulation where they pass through the mcpcb or touch host metal, etc. Metal reflectors can also do this if they touch the wire points but that’s not an issue for this light. Make sure the wrap on the battery is intact on the + end. Those are the obvious things but if there’s a chance you may have damaged a component on the driver, look there, too. Since this is doing this without the mcpcb attached, it sounds unlikely that the led wires are at fault (or something like an emitter that was mounted backwards/polarity).
I agree there is a short
here are 3 possible ways
if the solder blob on the positive wire is too tall, it can touch the reflector… or
if a small solder ball falls between the side of the mcpcb and the body… or
if the insulation on the positive wire gets split, so the wire touches the side core of the mcpcb…
I agree, sometimes its best just to set things down and come at it fresh another day. Been there
After my handmade fabric pouches, i made simple lanyard from a flat fabric cord, so i have the original lanyards brand new in their boxes !