Thanks for the insights @Correllux and @jon_slider I’ll try again next weekend and look into what you guys have suggested. Been trying to diagnose it the whole day and I’m already at wits end.
I agree, sometimes its best just to set things down and come at it fresh another day. Been there 
Nothing special…
After my handmade fabric pouches, i made simple lanyard from a flat fabric cord, so i have the original lanyards brand new in their boxes !
Very nice !
I spent way too many hours this past weekend modifying my Cyansky P10 that I won with their GAW. But had fun doing it!!!
Although the flashlight was very bright, I didn’t like the low CRI and greenish tint of the OSRAM P9 LED.
The P10 head is pressed fit and glued together. In order to replace the LED with a 2700K SST-20, I had to hammer the TIR lens thru the head which cracked the lens, tore off the LED, and bent the MCPCB and aluminum shelf.
I then made some customize parts in order to rebuild the head:
- Created a driver retaining ring from a lock washer. Lots of filing and sanding in order to screw it into the head threads.
- Modified a plastic reflector taken from a cheapo AA flashlight by sanding down the top of it.
- Dremeled a green S2+ AR lens to fit in the head.
- Filed the driver and shelf so they would move freely in the head. The shelf still presses against the head, but no longer needs to be hammered into place.
Put it all together (also replaced the wires with durable Teflon wires and added 3 layers of Kapton tape to insulate the driver) and the beam was not the best. It was ringy, but thankfully no donut hole. So I put some DC-Fix between the reflector and lens and the beam turned out great.
The high mode lumens is noticeably less than before, but the tint/CRI/CCT and beam is much better. I’m very happy with how well it turned out!
3 Thanks
Nice. That sounds like a lot of work. So you can Dremel glass?
Yes you can, but it takes some time since the glass gets hot. I used this bit and ground the lens using the perimeter of the stone:
Dremel® Rotary Tool 1" Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone
Good to know. Thanks
Sunwayman V11r LED swap to 3000K 519a
Great light, great LED… really happy with how it turned out.
1 Thank
I broke out all the Boruit D-10 headlamps/ Sofirn versions of the D25 and their version with the Red emitter in it and hit them with a minus green filter.
They are an easy light to open with4 screws , all of them had the Samsung 351 higher cri but all shared that green tint . Now they are 100 times better and each took about 10 minutes .
The D-10 took about 40 seconds to mod and again the tint got much much better.
All this got me feeling rather stupid for waiting so long to do a 3 minute , 30 cent micro mod.
So I decided to fix the tint on a Skillhunt H03
I used a regular minus green filter instead of the thicker cut a square/ trimmed off each corner to avoid screws and once again made a questionable tint into something you’d never consider doing an emitter swap on .
Once again … what the hell was I waiting on??
The results on all of them are amazing
@Boaz, I have some lights with the LH351D that could use some minus green filter. What filter did you use for yours?
I was using the zircon 1/8th minus green that I call # Z-2 on the Samsung emitters and on the Vg-10’s I used regular lee filter Minus 1/4 green .
I took a pic of the Thorfire VG-10’s one stock and one with the filter added side by side on low med and high … one creamy white with a hint of peachy yum … and the other like the Grinch was shot while stealing Christmas presents.
I set out to modify a SS/Cu X6 with a really low profile optic over a 90.2. Had to make a spacer to raise the emitter due to the low profile optic.
Modified my complacency instead…
With 7 stitches in my fingers I now have some time to analyze how I can achieve this in a safer manner. 
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Oh boy, Dats Tuff !
Been away from this kind of mod for too long, forgot how bad copper is about seizing. Tried to hold the copper disc on a wedge of wood to angle wire holes through on the drill press…. Seized and bit me!
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This is why they call it “red copper”…
Hope the throbbing isn’t too bad and it heals up quickly!
I learned pretty fast that copper is grabby. You can “dub” your bits to help, and I think the traditional 118° tip angle is supposed to be more forgiving here than the usually-on-the-store-shelf 135° these days. Lead is even worse, if you ever have the misfortune of needing to drill lead.
I learned to buy bar stock copper with Beryllium , even 1/2 of 1% Beryllium greatly enhances machineability.
This time I wasn’t using the lathe and the 1/4x 2x6” flat bar was unmarked in kit I bought from Old Lumens years ago.
And yeah, been too long and too much has happened. Just forgot. I remember now! Lol
Alcohol helps.
I mean drilling holes in copper, aluminium can be cooled with denatured alcohol or IPA. Or propper cooling fluid for copper.
Get well soon! 
And be carefull with beryllium copper dust. I think the marines aren’t allowed to grind their CuBe blades by themself.
I finished assembling my FW1AA with NiMH/li-ion boost+buck driver, a dedomed 519A and aux LED :
I tried using cyan+warmwhite+pink, I think I prefer the good old RGB though.
FWAA 219C sliced with boost driver vs FW1AA on li-ion :
1501cd vs 5675cd
670cd vs 3150cd on NiMH
I find the beam of the FW1AA much more usable.
3 Thanks