Yes you can, but it takes some time since the glass gets hot. I used this bit and ground the lens using the perimeter of the stone:
Dremel® Rotary Tool 1" Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone
Good to know. Thanks
Sunwayman V11r LED swap to 3000K 519a
Great light, great LED… really happy with how it turned out.
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I broke out all the Boruit D-10 headlamps/ Sofirn versions of the D25 and their version with the Red emitter in it and hit them with a minus green filter.
They are an easy light to open with4 screws , all of them had the Samsung 351 higher cri but all shared that green tint . Now they are 100 times better and each took about 10 minutes .
The D-10 took about 40 seconds to mod and again the tint got much much better.
All this got me feeling rather stupid for waiting so long to do a 3 minute , 30 cent micro mod.
So I decided to fix the tint on a Skillhunt H03
I used a regular minus green filter instead of the thicker cut a square/ trimmed off each corner to avoid screws and once again made a questionable tint into something you’d never consider doing an emitter swap on .
Once again … what the hell was I waiting on??
The results on all of them are amazing
@Boaz, I have some lights with the LH351D that could use some minus green filter. What filter did you use for yours?
I was using the zircon 1/8th minus green that I call # Z-2 on the Samsung emitters and on the Vg-10’s I used regular lee filter Minus 1/4 green .
I took a pic of the Thorfire VG-10’s one stock and one with the filter added side by side on low med and high … one creamy white with a hint of peachy yum … and the other like the Grinch was shot while stealing Christmas presents.
I set out to modify a SS/Cu X6 with a really low profile optic over a 90.2. Had to make a spacer to raise the emitter due to the low profile optic.
Modified my complacency instead…
With 7 stitches in my fingers I now have some time to analyze how I can achieve this in a safer manner. 
3 Thanks
Oh boy, Dats Tuff !
Been away from this kind of mod for too long, forgot how bad copper is about seizing. Tried to hold the copper disc on a wedge of wood to angle wire holes through on the drill press…. Seized and bit me!
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This is why they call it “red copper”… 
Hope the throbbing isn’t too bad and it heals up quickly!
I learned pretty fast that copper is grabby. You can “dub” your bits to help, and I think the traditional 118° tip angle is supposed to be more forgiving here than the usually-on-the-store-shelf 135° these days. Lead is even worse, if you ever have the misfortune of needing to drill lead.
I learned to buy bar stock copper with Beryllium , even 1/2 of 1% Beryllium greatly enhances machineability.
This time I wasn’t using the lathe and the 1/4x 2x6” flat bar was unmarked in kit I bought from Old Lumens years ago.
And yeah, been too long and too much has happened. Just forgot. I remember now! Lol
Alcohol helps.
I mean drilling holes in copper, aluminium can be cooled with denatured alcohol or IPA. Or propper cooling fluid for copper.
Get well soon! 
And be carefull with beryllium copper dust. I think the marines aren’t allowed to grind their CuBe blades by themself.
I finished assembling my FW1AA with NiMH/li-ion boost+buck driver, a dedomed 519A and aux LED :
I tried using cyan+warmwhite+pink, I think I prefer the good old RGB though.
FWAA 219C sliced with boost driver vs FW1AA on li-ion :
1501cd vs 5675cd
670cd vs 3150cd on NiMH
I find the beam of the FW1AA much more usable.
3 Thanks
Nice one!
1 Thank
Looking at my Sofirn SP70 and calculating… have these new SFH-55 emitters and a diamond textured Illuminations Machines reflector, anyone think it’s worth the trouble? I’d have to build an FET driver for the high amp 3V emitter and either create a 2P 21700 carrier or go with a dummy cell + 1 arrangement.
No copper would be harmed in this potential venture. Lol (No promises on that though)
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Three successful LED swaps today:
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Put a dedomed 4500K 519a into my Jaxman M2. The relatively big, heavy OP reflector makes a beautiful beam. Solder joints shorting on the back of the reflector were an issue as I didn’t have kapton tape. One of those self adhesive paper led insulator discs sorted the problem though.
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Reflowed a 4000k 519a into my SP10. Left the dome intact on this one, I prefer the slightly warmer colour temperature, reds seem to pop more.
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Reflowed 4000K XP-L Hi into my Emisar D1S. Somewhere along the line I’d swapped in a 4000k(ish) SST-20, the XPL is cooler than I expected, and looks cooler compared to my stock 4000k D1 v1…
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That is some amazing miniature wiring and soldering thefreeman! 
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@thefreeman… That is a very interesting vice. Does it have a special name?
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Jeweller vice or something like that, it’s a cheap one.
edit : looks like this one
I removed the handle and put it in another small vice, I have another one that I mounted on a base
