Those go by lots of names…mostly cheaper versions that are perfectly serviceable but there are some expensive ones also. I learned it as a jeweler’s pin vise but of course searching that brings up normal pin vises, too. Jeweler’s handheld vise might get better results…and I think I saw them called ring vises as well, but there are other types of vises and simple pinch clamps for rings. “Budget” horology folks also sometimes use these to hold watch casings rather than spending the coin on watch vises. Shop around and you can probably save quite a few dollars on these depending on the vendor. The Rio Grande jeweler’s supply outfit (can’t recall their full name) sometimes has great pricing, and Esslinger is also worth a look…also Etsy believe it or not. Amazon has bunches but they don’t always have the best prices anymore. There are a few models with a flat base for table mounting but most have a handle sticking out the bottom (can remove it to make a base or just clamp it in a vise or whatever). The cheapie little black zinc-cast mini vises (usually with orange jaws) can work well this way too if you get the kind that will take posts screwed into the top edge of the jaws…nylon posts but those could be replaced (I covered mine in thick walled silicone tubing for better grip).
That’s an amazing mod, thefreeman…and the driver!!
What’s that unique optic in there?
Thanks, it’s a Gaggione LLC22N, most of the beam is good but the outer spill has some diamond shaped artefacts, according to the datasheet the optic should be 0.4mm above the LES, whereas I put it at 0mm, maybe that will improve the beam. I’ll try some Ledil Tina as well.
I hadn’t even heard of them before…thank you. Found their site and will snoop around later. Where can you find those for sale? (Noticed they’re based in France so I assume you have easy access.)
I bought samples directly from them.
An engraving ball vise has a similar head
Thanks to all. The term ‘peg clamp vise’ finds plenty of sellers. I’m ordering one and will try mounting it on one of my HD camera ball heads.
aka pin vise, engraving vise, jewelers vise
comes with a ball base:
https://i.imgur.com/8HlB2Vr.jpg
That one appears to have more robust clamp bars than some of that type of swivel.
I have a single ball pivot photo ball socket swivels gathering dust. (much like the image I am borrowing from amazon) I like the single pivot point better than most of the 2 pivot points used on a lot of stuff.
if you dont need the double ball base, this handheld is much cheaper:
https://pmcsupplies.com/handheld-universal-work-holder-engraving-vise.html
Very Nice!! Gorgeous
Well, after going to a lot of trouble (and stitches even!) to make a copper spacer for an SS/Cu X6 in an effort to utilize a shallow optic paired with a 90.2… it’s a bust! This optic doesn’t play nice with the 90.2 emitter.
So I regrouped. Re-flowed an SFT40 to a 20mm SinkPAD, soldered 20ga leads and a Beryllium spring to an LD4 Constant current driver and enlarged the reflector hole in the threaded stock reflector.
After set up of the driver to Direct Drive in high mode, I’m seeing 2220 lumens in high with a sub 2 lumen low.
The term “ball engraving vise” shows the many attachments for the clamping head.
You can also use
- zylindric diamond grinder for the dremel. The grit prevents slipping
- the little pegs from a wardrobe, for the shelfs
No photos, but, I modded my Foursevens Quark QK16L.
Removed the driver (2 layers) and the LED (XP-G something?) and added a 17mm DrJones H17Fx Driver w/ lucidrv2 - 7135 + FET, and a Nichia 219C 5700K 90 CRI on a led4power 3535 DTP MCPCB.
Since the driver is 17mm and the hole in the head structure is almost 19mm, I had to file the inner part of a 20mm to 17mm ,22mm to 17mm brass ring adpater for S21A M21A S11 and make it fit below the driver (towards the body).
After that, I added some silicone between the driver and the head, specially to help securing the driver and the retaining ring in place.
With this configuration I have one of my best lights, with configurable UI, high CRI, neutral white, and the possibility to use 16340 and 16650 batteries. It would be ideal if the light was slightly shorter in the 16340 version, but I won’t complain much about that.
While talking to my friend about C8 flashlights I was perusing my shelves and discovered I still have a Jaxman M8, a mini C8. But the old 14 chip driver I built some time back was flickering. Decided to rework it.
This light has a brass screw-in light engine, but no retaining ring or threads even to hold the driver… it was soldered in. So I desoldered and removed the driver, heated the pill and broke loose the 20mm copper star with XP-L Hi. (I had glued the star in with thermal epoxy, heated it and punched it out from inside)
Prepped a 6A LD4 from Neven with a nice spring and 20 ga leads, reflowed an SFT40 onto a 20mm SinkPAD while simultaneously soldering the pad to the brass pill. Soldered the L4 in all around.
In Constant Current setting with an old 25R 18650 this little light makes 1360 lumens with a nice fairly tight beam.
Gotta love it when a plan comes together!
Forgot to mention, this was an interesting challenge to build as I was limited to the use of three fingers on my left hand due to the mod last week putting stitches in my middle and index fingers.
Frustrating at times but in the end the M8 is revived and quite nice. 
Cool.
Spent a good deal of today making the copper heat sink that messed up my fingers work with the Ledil Amy and SBT-90.2. I didn’t realize there was supposed to be a connector base for the Amy optic holder to fit into, so ultimately I used a 3mm thick o-ring as the spacer to dial in a beam pattern.
3340 lumens on a MTN FET+1 driver with 22 ga wires. About 3/4” of copper under the 90.2, spreads the massive amount of heat out into the head very quickly.
My body hates me.
Thunderstorms tonight, not very conducive to beam shots.