Was the xhp a 2-step tint bin? What was the duv after slicing?
I’m confused. Aside from cct differences, all else equal, would a sliced 70.3 hd have comparable duv to a 70.3 hi? Say same tint bin, same starting cct. What I’m getting at is there any reason to get a 70.3 hd over a hi if you’re going to slice it anyway?
It was just a standard ANSI bin, XHP70D-00-0000-0D0UM20E4. I haven’t sliced it yet, I may not even slice it as I’m pretty happy with the Duv. I’m also using it with a 25° TIR so I’m not even sure it would make much of a difference to the throw.
From what I’ve read a sliced XHP70.3 HD should have a lower Duv than an equivalent HI version, but slicing also lowers the CCT. Cree tints are such a crapshoot though, emitters from the same reel can vary a lot.
I would probably have just gotten a HI but Digikey didn’t have any in stock, and I didn’t feel like waiting 2-3 weeks to order one from China. Also, neither Simon or KD have 4500K.
Thanks for the info. I see digikey has new listings for the HIs but they’re not in stock yet. I just got a 50.3 3500k 2-step from them. I can’t measure it but the tint looks pretty good. I’ll probably slice it though.
I’m a big tint snob. I don’t like the idea of spending $14 or so on a 70.3 and risking getting bad tint.
I saw something in a video by Marc Gossling that blew my mind And had to try it.
The tail cap of the SP35T works perfectly with the Wurkkos TS22! I couldn’t believe myself I had never tried… even the momentary function works flawlessly.
I swapped a warm XHP70.3 HI in the Ts22 and now is my daily carry.
And the funny thing is that that video was a review about the Trustfire T40R 
I even ordered a new tailcap from sofirn.
I’ll link the video so you guys can see.
XHP50.3 HD 3000K 90CRI 6V in an S2+, w/convoys new 17mm 6v driver, OP reflector, bypassed tailcap spring.
I’ve had to grind out the middle of the retaining ring a bit to get it to fit around all of these 6v drivers, but I am using kaidomain hosts not convoy hosts, they are a little different.
Also S2-not-plus with “P35 Hi/SFS80” 4000k and convoy 5a driver.
Haven’t even bypassed springs on this one yet and it’s super bright. Surprised more people aren’t using this in throwers
I put a triple 1mm sliced 2700K SST-20s into my old bike light. This is the 2nd time I’ve modded it (first mod here). Previously I made the custom shelf and spacer. This time I stacked some washers to fill the gap. Not a lot of amps (around 300 lumens) so no issue with the LEDs burning out.
Great looking beam. Did you need to modify the height of the optic to get good focus after slicing? I’ve got some XPPs (stock domeless) in a triple and the focus doesn’t seem right.
Nice job on the reflector gasket!
No, I just used the KD optic as is.
I’m not a fan of the KD MCPCBs since the Carclo optics do not fit well and will ruin the LEDs (from past experience).
But the KD optic worked well with the sliced SST-20s.
Thanks! Gaskets and just centering in general are the two things I’m struggling the most with right now. Going into this I assumed they kinda just clicked perfectly into place every time lol
That’s a very busy MCPCB!! How do you reflow that without fear of de soldering other components??
I was very worried about that so I took photos of the parts, in case they fell off.
I then folded a strip of Kapton Tape over the top and bottom of the PCB, with a hole punched in the tape for the LED. So the parts on the underside would not be lost, and the parts on the upper side would have a little heat shielding.
I then put some tacky flux on the side of the led, and applied hot air at 200C, watching for the flux to melt… When the flux started smoking, the LED lifted off using tweezers. It was not obvious that it was ready to be removed, reading the flux was key. The LED was held in position pretty securely by the surface tension of the liquified solder.
None of the other parts got bumped, or they would have moved too… but they did not drop off the bottom of the board. Installing the new LED was easier to tell when the solder paste melted, the LED snapped into alignment. Everything worked on the first try… I got lucky 
after that I decided to make a Red light for a friend who mentioned he likes to use a red light before bedtime. I put a 660nm Red XP-E into a Sofirn SC21 Pro w a 30 degree Pebbled Tir lens… It works nicely:
Two problem free mods in one day, Im on a roll! 
Nice reflows Jon! I like those 660nm XP-E’s, that’s what I used in my red S2+.
Very nice indeed! Congratulations. I’d surely screw something up lol.
I’m still yet to buy a deep red emitter for me. Kinda curious as to what it looks like when compared to a regular red led.
I think regular is 620nm… it is brighter and looks more orange. 660nm looks more like a true ruby red.
image courtesy of Andy Zhu:
Anduril copes really well with the differences between white and red LEDs… the output differences dont matter, thanks to the ability to ramp.
in normal 3 mode lights, red LEDs dont work properly, the modes not only get lower, the spacing gets compressed and almost all look the same.
imho, the SC21 Pro is a great host for a Red LED swap. So is the SP10 Pro, except it lacks the illuminated button of the SC21 Pro
I find the illuminated button of the SC21 Pro really valuable. For locating the light in the dark, such as on a nightstand, also for locating the switch button when using the light.
The switch button on the SP10 Pro is almost impossible to find in the dark. The light also lacks the built in charging of the SC21 Pro.
thanks for the kind words, glad you also enjoy 660nm Red XP-E, I get mine from kaidomain
Does the stock S2+ driver retain useful outputs and mode spacing, or did you use the special driver for Red that Convoy sells?
Kaidomain also has an XP-G3 670nm Red It is a very nice LED, slightly larger dome and maybe also a bit more efficient than the older XP-E design.
670nm also happens to match the frequency of the Red lights that were used to test effects on Retina health… though imo a lot of different red frequencies are beneficial to us.
What is tacky flux? Is that the same as solder paste, like this stuff: MECHANIC Original Solder Tin Paste?
I could not resist dedoming…
its is a slightly thick flux, sort of a gel, not a liquid, nor can of paste… it is convenient because it comes with a syringe that lets me put it on a solder blob and it does not liquefy, until I apply heat to it.
Haha, like a scab you can’t help but pick.
youre right
Im making plans to remove the dedomed 519a… the dedome produced a poor beam with artifacts in the center… Im not a fan of domed 519a tint. might try a 219b tomorrow… debating 3000K or sw45k, which would you pick?
