Today attempted my first reflash.
It worked on the very first try.
Flashed from cmd, on a win10 x64 using warhawk instructions and RMM bat file.
Used gchart ramping_ui on an old 105D.
Pretty neat. A bit choppy on the lows but its really cool.
Either I got the Grey wire connected properly or you guys are great instructors.
Feels pretty good to find out you can actually get it to work doesn’t it? Nice job and welcome to the “flashers club”. LOL
Woo-Hoo “flashers club”.
It does.
thanks.
Next is to order boards and parts, assemble a driver.
http://www.supplymylab.com/Supplies/Sample-Vials/_/4-oz-High-Profile-Flip-Top-Polypropylene-Vials?=
Ok ..I used these two items a big thick rubber band and some thicker /hard diffuser film to make a BLF-Q8 diffuser .
I only had the baby bottle with a blue nipple and didn't have that interesting snap on /off cover .
I made a triple with my S30RIII 
MCPCB from KD, XP-G2 R4-71 3000K (nice warm tint), triple optic from KD and a coworker made the spacer (sorry, no pic) at work with a lathe.
Nice beam, quite throwy thanks to the XP-G2 and without artifacts.
I love it !
CRX Brass Triple Nichia 18350 EX1
XP-L2 5000k from KD and put it into the Astrolux S1. Measured 8.4 amps from the tail.
These new XP-L2’s can really pull some amps and put out the light! Nice job!
woua
beautiful CRX !
the only drawback from brass and SS is the weight compared to alu
Ohhh!! I like these shiny things!!!
Sinner makes brass 18350 EDC’s, just sayin…
I prefer a brass light to have the brass on the outside.
Hey, if I messed up a black aluminum bezel on a Manker S41 while getting it off, what would look better replacing it…. bronze, brass, copper, SS or Titanium? Or polished Al?
I scratched one too, ended up stripping the whole light. Sanded the bezel scratch out best I could and polished it all. It like the S41S without the weight and knarly knurling. Actually my fav of all my (9) S41/S41S.
Trying to picture the different metal colors but if the tube and switch remain black its hard to decide. Even with SS or Ti for durability I would still strip the rest of black. Another thought, turn the tube/sw in the lathe to remove the high surface black, keeping the black in low areas, CRX style? SS or Ti bezel too.
Not as pretty as pic anymore but holds up well.
It’s a shorty, black aluminum, not only did it slip in the chuck a bit (even with sheet aluminum between the light and chuck, marred it) but it is also out of round. Clear hard glue, like superglue or something, stuck like Chuck. 
The bezel goes on, still holds the lens and optic, but still……
Looks nice polished out, for sure. Nice job there. 
Thanks,
they used evil hard glue, All but one of mine have been apart. Even if you get it to move slightly you still need to work it back a forth to break apart the hard lines still stuck in all the threads, whole way off.
You are fortunate to be able to make a replacement and not have broken the lens.
Replacement heads are still available on BG S41S SS bezel, $24-26.
I upgraded my Jaxman Z1 today to a XHP70 N4 for kicks. Defiantly brighter over the XHP 50 that was in it.
Found this cheap little olympia ad180 on amazon that looked like a suitable host. Took a few homemade parts but was able to convert it to a KD triple XP-G2 S2 1A and swapped the driver for the one removed from my lumintop prince.
Today I combined a few things in a simple mod.
Two weeks ago I finished testing on a SST-10 365nm led, and I had some 15mm ZWB2 filters around for a year, at the time without a proper host for them. In the meantime I purchased a Jetbeam E10R AA/14500 powered flashlight that works with a 15mm lens (16 actually but 15 works as well). This morning I decided to put the led and lens inside the E10R. On an Eneloop I measured 250mW output OTF, on a 14500 650mW. (the calibration is very rough).
