Really like that one CRX, neat little light and nice work bringing it up to date. Pretty sweet little bit o brass right there!
Yeah it’s nice to breathe new life into the older lights :+1:
Nice work CRX. :+1:
Some led-swaps today. I wanted to use the blue and red Sofirn SP10B lights, but after finishing the blue one with a Samsung LH351D (4000K 90+CRI), I decided to not use the red SP10B for the second led, a Nichia E21A 4000K R9080 on a djozz-119board, but a Utorch UT10 because everything about it seems a tiny bit better to me, a tiny bit smaller, a tiny bit better UI, a tiny bit better output, and (more than a tiny bit) better mode spacing.
It took a while to center the E21A led to an acceptable level (slightly off-center but the beam is perfect) because there is no center piece for this led.
At this point, having used the LH351D in a variety of hosts, I’m not too enthousiastic using them in small TIR optics or small reflectors, the beam gets too floody to my liking. It was fine in the larger SP33 reflector (31 mm smooth) but in a E2L (Carclo triple TIR) and the SP10B (18mm OP reflector) the hotspot is too wide. In contrast, the E21A is perfect for these small hosts with its small emitting area (even smaller than a dedomed XP-G2).
Beams. Left blue SP10B, right UT01
The blue SP10B build is really nice but for me, the UT01 build with E21A wins today, comparable in output with the SP10B+LH351D (213lm for the Utorch, 270 for the Sofirn), but even nicer beam and tint.
Olight H2R with Nichia E21A LED 6500K R9080
Link below
[Mod] Olight H2R with Nichia E21A LED 6500K R9080
Just made a led swap in a Nitecore SRT9 from cool white XHP50 to 5000K XHP50.2
3D printed a tool for the bezel:
And opened it up:
Replacing done:
And everytinhg back together:
Gained 227 lumens. Now it is making 2379 lumens.
And it has perfect hot spot and much nicer tint.
Almost finished.
Making a 3D printed tool for the bezel. That is a skill/service a lot of members are waiting for.
I myself prefer to use the TEVA-method. It’s the smell of my feet, I think.
This week I grinded down a 32mm Maxtoch XHP70 MCPCB to fit the Astrolux MF02 shelf which has 28mm diameter.
Reflowed an XHP70.2 5000K on it.
Drilled the stock centering ring to make the big guy fit.
Well centered and focused. Sorry for this bad pic:
Zozz, when you cut down an MCPCB like that it’s always a good idea to slightly bevel the edge. This pulls the power carrying traces away from the outer edge and gives some clearance that can help avoid a short circuit. 
Dale is correct, the flare could be a hidden problem later. I find its easier to use 90° single flute countersink end mill on a rotary table or simply a flat sharp diamond file.
- Clemence
Thanks! Done it. And checked with multimeter and with microscope too. The image is just not the final version. I also scraped off some solder mask to make wire soldering points bigger.
I also unmodded my car yesterday. Pulled out one alarm system and one immobilizer. Piece of wiring nightmare. I don’t know why so popular these aftermarket things here. They only make contact and electrical problems and making troubleshooting worse.
What was that can of Kobanyai? The motion-sensor? 
That wasn’t in the car. That is a hungarian beer what was needed to keep me calm and cool under this project not to burn the whole car.
I’ll provide some moonshine if you’ll get the blasted alarm system out of my ’98 Dodge Grand Caravan….
The only problem is the distance…
Travel to America is on my bucket list.
Stinking WWW, robbing me of my chance… 
I want The James Brown Car Alarm.
A friend found some neat little magnifiers for himself and his mom, with the exception that the 5mm LED was cool white. He found some high CRI Nichia 5mm LEDs and sent me a package… the neat magnifiers are so much nicer with the Nichia emitters! Fairly complicated disassembly but quite easy to change the LED.
He also sent me a nightmare in progress… an old Surefire T1A Titan with a rotary switch acting up. What a bear!