What did you mod today?

Mark_M · 2018-08-26T01:39:40.000Z

You could do some continuity and resistance testing and see if all the resistors are intact. I know you said you did some testing, I am just not sure if you tested those.

DB_Custom · 2018-08-26T01:17:13.000Z

Modified my new Emisar D4S with Samsung LH351D 5000k 80CRI emitters and 18 ga leads. With a new LG HG6 20650 freshly charged it makes 5920.2 lumens.

Cereal_killer · 2018-08-26T02:21:49.000Z

Put an LH351D 5000K in an V11R but most of my hobby time today was spent making this thing.

@DavidEF knows what it’s for!

MRsDNF · 2018-08-26T05:09:28.000Z

Looks like a reflector in an optic.

eas · 2018-08-26T07:33:33.000Z

Looks like The Terminator.

g_damian · 2018-08-26T13:01:50.000Z

Today I put together:

Convoy M2 host,
M2 spacer from kiriba-ru,
Optisolis 4000K leds,
Babka firmware,
Nanjg 105c with 4*350 chips.

Very nice, floody beam pattern, without any visible tint shifts. On the highest mode after 5 minutes flashlight body is warm, but not too hot to hold.

The tricky part during the build - centering ring goes flat side towards the shelf, included oring (in the set from kiriba-ru) goes under the lens, stock oring goes above the lens, under the bezel.

Album with pictures

Left: stock D4, 219C 5000K, Carclo 10622 (~350 mA); right: M2, Optisolis 4000K, Carclo 10623 (~450 mA):

djozz · 2018-08-27T10:37:49.000Z

Modded my mini GT with a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B.

My mini GT was in pieces. It started with a severely unresponsive switch, and Neal asked me to find out where the problem was. So I opened the (unglued) bezel and because the centerpiece was so tight in the reflector opening, the unscrewing of the bezel twisted the led from its solder pad. So I had the mini GT in pieces with two problems now. I ordered a batch of new switches from aliexpress, which will be a separate project, but in the meantime I tried a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B in it, recovered from a Emisar D4 in which I swapped the leds for warm white ones for a friend. The XP-G2’s seems the good old stuff. I reflowed one on the miniGT board and made a complete mess of the hot dedome (I started it too hot) lots of silicone left on top of the phosfor. So I heated the board up again, took it from the hotplate and started rubbing off the silicon from the phosfor with a wooden toothpick, trying to stay clear of the bond wires (hail my quality stereo microscope). Got most of it off with rubbing and blowing, but have some doubts if remains will shorten the lifetime of the led. Anyway, the led lives and worked surprisingly well in the miniGT, a perfect beam and 229 kcd on a 30Q at 30 seconds. Just the switch is still broken, it did not fix itself by disassembling the driver .You can see in above picture that the centerpiece tries to shear off the led again, but perhaps my reflows are stronger than Lumintop’s.

The_Driver1 · 2018-08-27T10:33:46.000Z

Nice, though at First I was hoping that you put it into a full size GT.

djozz · 2018-08-27T10:37:02.000Z

The_Driver:

Nice, though at First I was hoping that you put it into a full size GT.

That would have been a centering hell :confounded:

(edited above post: forgot the calibration error of my luxmeter, corrected the throw to 229 kcd)

The_Driver1 · 2018-08-27T12:36:01.000Z

djozz:

The_Driver:

Nice, though at First I was hoping that you put it into a full size GT.

That would have been a centering hell :confounded:

(edited above post: forgot the calibration error of my luxmeter, corrected the throw to 229 kcd)

Definitely, at least few hours.

LichtAn · 2018-08-29T09:20:51.000Z

My USBasp arrived today, so I decided to take my Emisar D1 apart. Worked like a charm. Stupid thing is I’m still waiting for my SOIC8 clip. So I’ll probably order one from Amazon with evening express, cause I caaan’t waaiiiit now.

CRX · 2018-08-29T14:25:13.000Z

Some glow stuff

Swib · 2018-08-29T16:24:17.000Z

That Meteor looks awesome, ah who am I kidding, they all look awesome.

djozz · 2018-08-29T18:27:13.000Z

Today I wrapped 3 30Q’s from NKON with clear wrap (also from NKON), the first time I used the hot air thing for anything, it went easy

As you can see they are going to live in the ROT66, with the wraps it is a very snug fit, no rattling (was not a problem anyway).

DB_Custom · 2018-08-29T21:27:57.000Z

Always a good idea to number the cells and date them, so you can keep track of the characteristics and see if some rotation helps keep em balanced. I also like to write the IR on them from the first charge to be able to see if they are degrading over time and hard use.

contactcr · 2018-08-29T21:32:22.000Z

Do you guys typically wrap over the top of the existing wrap or remove and re-wrap?

djozz · 2018-08-29T21:33:51.000Z

DB Custom:

Always a good idea to number the cells and date them, so you can keep track of the characteristics and see if some rotation helps keep em balanced. I also like to write the IR on them from the first charge to be able to see if they are degrading over time and hard use.

Good idea, should have done that before the wrapping. Next time I will think of that

DB_Custom · 2018-08-29T22:12:25.000Z

I usually leave the factory wrap on. Almost always fits.

But then, I don’t exactly re-wrap… I cover the writing (mine) with a piece of 2” wide heavy duty packing tape and call it good. Usually works…

djozz · 2018-08-29T22:25:18.000Z

This evening a second Nichia Optisolis mod, same story as my first but now in a Convoy S9, a bit more difficult than the S2+ build but the light will be a present so it needs USB charging. A 16mm XM Noctigon was first sanded to 15mm, bottom made very flat and edges rounded, this was done because it will be glued in later with AA-adhesive and the board must not make electrical contact with the housing. Then a solder-pad to the core of the board was scratched at the side. Then the two original +and - solder pads were connected with a wire. Then four 5000k Optisolis leds were reflowed on the XM-pads, the larger minus pads all facing inwards soldered on the central thermal pad, the smaller plus pads of the leds to the plus and minus pads on the outside.

Lots of re-trying, I had one led reversed it appeared :person_facepalming: , made a dirty job of the board eventually but in the end it worked.

The reflector had to be reamed to 8.5mm diameter, and slightly sanded on the underside afterwards to remove the sharp edge. It fits tightly around the 4-led array and I will not use a centering piece. The board is thicker than the stock board, that will compensate for not using the centerpiece.

The board was glued in with a led-tester connected to leds+ and head shell, so that a short between board and head would light up the leds, so I would be able during hardening of the glue to wiggle the board to remove the short. But all went well without shorts luckily, not the greatest thermal connection from board to flashlight but the current will be under 2 amps so that should be ok. The temorary plus-wire was removed and led wires soldered to the board.

I hoped for about 400 lumen and that is what I got: 390 lumen OTF (on a Keeppower 1200mAh 18350 battery, I made a S9 shorty). So that must be about 500mA per led which is good for a build like this.

I knew the glass needed heavy frosting but I still checked the beam.

The beam is not really bad actually, but the frosting is needed. Some heavy sanding with 180 grit 3M sandpaper later.

Almost perfect!

Checking the big smooth center of the beam:

The messy work did not ruin the light quality.
Finished!

MRsDNF · 2018-08-29T23:59:43.000Z

Nice mod djozz. I have no idea where you get the patience from.