Woah, that’s a biggun’
Still fairly compact for what it will do big chunk of alui for battery cap balances it. The driver is single mode, i did put another resistor from a cooked driver on it and i dont know the readings. 1hr45min run on 4500mah 26650 the led with 35mm mcpcb sits on a 10mm copper disc.
I have done readings with lux meter 32450lux @2.85m = 263575.125candela? for 1026m throw result.
It is probably the distance im measuring from. But they seem to way short of real world use the w30 as a control
Decided to rebuild my first big scratch built thrower using a CFT-90. Rebuilt the Bistro driver with an SIR404DP MOSFET and swapped the leads in favor of 16ga Turnigy. With a freshly charged 30T it pulls 25.8A and makes 4600 lumens start value. About to do a 5M lux test even though thats too close.
The big 95mm reflector is really putting it out there! 
A CFT-90 in a 95mm reflector? I wanna see that beamshot! 
Even a 5M test gives me 1.09Mcd! Figures out to 1.3 miles with a 4600 lumen output! Yup, schoolgirl giggles and an ear to ear grin!
Lol, yup!
Spent $123 getting here just to see what all the fuss was. Lot more lumens, tighter really than a 70 can do, but of course Luminus can’t make an efficient emitter so it takes major current to get the lumens. Still, single cell without a fancy boost driver…
Boredom pushes us strange places.
That must’ve been a big lump of aluminium. Nice job 
Another big chunk. Lovin’it 
The old way, little white barn at 610 yds with my Canon G1X at ISO 1600, 1/2 sec manual exposure f/5.6. 2 second timer. I, uh, was sorta using a fence post top to snap the shot and might’ve, well, moved slightly on the zoomed in shot. 
Oh, and this is using the 32650 instead of the 30T. So it’s at a start value of 4200 lumens instead of 4600. Not sure about the lux change, obviously it still works well with the 6000mAh cell.
Edit: PP? Notice the reflector is a sprung part of the light, at 95mm opening I couldn’t really machine a head for it so I just threaded the reflector and used an adapter to fit it to the one piece pill/tube section. Then threaded the top for a bezel. I managed ok with this one, the 124mm reflector was a bear when I made that light! This one has a very heavy copper pill threaded into the top of the aluminum body. Should absorb and disperse the heat effectively.
Edit II: For those that may not remember I built this light originally in Oct of 2017, a few months after neck surgery. It was the first thing I did on the lathe after being released by my Dr.
Edit III: It could be that I may like copper a little too much. This was the copper pill after removing it from the light and de-soldering the 32mm MaxToch MCPCB that was in it… looking at what I needed to do to fit the CFT-90. This thick copper construction doesn’t have negative isolated, so I used Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive under it to separate the CFT-90 from the lights ground.
Is it possible for a flashaholic to like copper too much? 
Maybe. DBC-05 started out with a 3.17 pound copper round bar for a pill.
Actually SST-20 is not merely efficient for a 2mm² emitter - it’s very efficient.
I find the 20’s to produce too much heat for the lumens they offer and I don’t care for their tint. I have quite a few 20’s, some 46…. all removed from lights and sitting around on my bench.
The 20s definitely produce some heat —- I find the tint is especially current/reflector type (or optic) dependant —- I thought my batch of 4ks were way different so I used the same emitter in a few applications—tint change dramatic in some cases and slightly in others
Inspired by CRX’s DIY glow gaskets for triples, I tried brewing up a batch using his formula.
They turned out better than expected. Now I’m psyched to try some other colors.
I built a “simple” Convoy S2+ triple with a lighted tailcap. The 4000K 95CRI FD2 SST-20s came from the BlueSwordM group buy: BLF Interest List: 3rd Gen Extreme High Current Beryllium Copper Silver-Copper Plated springs+SST-20s FD2 95CRI. I used an electric skillet to reflow the LEDs, my second time ever. I sanded down the cup of the pill since the aluminum spacer didn’t sit flat against it. I chose an aluminum spacer vs copper to keep the weight down. The white lighted tailcap draws only 0.15mAmps, so the Samsung INR18650-35E 3500mAh will last years. I used a Carclo frosted optic and kept the non-AR lens. The tint is very good, even better than the Nichia I’ve gotten from RMM over the years, which I didn’t think could happen. This is now my new favorite EDC.
reflow and your LED wire soldering look top notch
Is the spacer also from MTN? Did you have to solder a bleeder or do you have next mode memory issue now?
What driver/program did you use —Does it get — I just built one with Bistro and in no time at all it’s Blazing hot
Nice work NeutralFan, careful, it’s VERY addictive! 