What did you mod today?

Thanks hodor! :wink:
Well, the led4power driver fitted in without issues, as the original driver also has 17mm diameter (with 2 small flaps that fit the “pill”, to avoid rotation).

There is no USB charging , because the new driver doesn’t have it. The charging port is implemented in the original driver, so when I took it out, it stopped working.

The rubber cover is still there, though (I may need to glue it to prevent eventual water infiltration).

Even without charging, this is a great host to make a DIY pocket thrower with an Osram led (Convoy 18350s tubes fit :stuck_out_tongue: ).
It may be kind of hard to center it correctly in case you don’t have appropriate gaskets. The beam is not 100% perfect due to that, but it throws a lot :wink:

You’re a bad influence on my wallet

Ahaha, thank you for the compliment :money_mouth_face: :smiling_imp: :innocent:

If you need any more info, let me know :+1:

In those pics the EagleEye light looks like it has the best focus of all of them. Not sure if that is due to the smaller die and camera settings or if you are just being modest but I cant see anything wrong with it.

Thanks contactr !! :+1:
I guess it has to do with small die led and the bigger reflector (if compared with the S2 and S2+ and the leds they are using). Camera was in auto, if I recall correctly
However, my point is that it is very hard to center the Osram W1 and make a “perfect” pencil beam .
Below you can see that the “flower” shape is not completely uniform, and believe me that this was the best I could do without proper centering gaskets.

I un/screwed the bezel/reflector dozens of times and tried at least 3 different gaskets to make it look well. I ended up “blackening” the white gasket to avoid more reflection and artifacts and it also improved a little :wink:

After reviewing the Wurkkos TS70, I knew that I really liked it for it’s heft, solid build, and brightness. However, I wasn’t really a fan of the UI. Hold-for-off really gets on my nerves.

So… brain transplant! I took out the PIC and put in a attiny412 with a tweaked version of RampingIOS / D4V2 UI:

  • When powered up, the light comes in on turbo instead of the usual double blink then off.
  • Swapped tactical and lockout modes so that lockout is 4 clicks instead of 6
  • Added momentary moon and secondary low from lockout (inspired by Anduril)

Oh, and while I had it apart, I gave the XHP70.2 a slice. Overall, I like it much better now!!

Moderately simple mod yesterday, did an emitter swap on an Olight S1R II, that nice limited purple colorway. 3000k, 90CRI XM-L2. Looks real pretty.

Gonna swap the other S1R II with the same emitter and fix the misaligned bezel on the first soon too, but pretty happy with this choice of emitter.

Just a simple emitter swap. I dropped a sliced/polished dogfart in a D80v2.

From reading other people’s experiences with slicing the LH351D, I expected the CCT to shift a little bit more than it did. I measured 5200K pre-slice and 5000K after. Perhaps I didn’t remove enough of the dome.

The tint is very nice with a slightly pinkish hotspot and a little bit of a yellow shift in the corona. I can see some slight artifacts around the hotspot on a white wall but outside it’s not noticeable at all.

A couple test shots. The beam is very nice.

Nice work! I have a Olight S1 Titanium that could use a better emitter. I found one video that starts disassembly (removal of bezel) but haven’t seen anything after that. Did you follow a site or other video for removal of the pill to access the emitter?

Finally got around to doing an emitter swap on my beloved ReyLight Ti LAN. I’ve gotta say, it’s an interesting MCPCB but one that I hope to never see again.

Before: Nichia 219C 4000K

After: sliced Samsung LH351D 5000K 90CRI


You had a flux party and didn’t invite us?!

Hahaha… thanks for the laugh. Yeah, it was 1 AM and I was rushing a bit. I cleaned up as much as I could and then moved on with my life.

Tbh that mcpcb can be a tricky sob and needs all the flux it can get!

The process is essentially the same as this video that person you linked also posted, and is pretty much what I followed. I used an old frying pan to remove the old emitter and reflow the new one on however

When I sliced my triple Samsung LH351D 5000K CRI90 LEDs I also was expecting the CCT to be noticeably warmer, but it appeared to remain at around 5000K. I also thought that maybe I could’ve sliced a little more, but any more seemed to be dangerous. I do like the tint overall and the extra throw the slicing gave.

I finished off the modifications of my Q8. It’s now very much one of a kind. I had previously:

- Stripped the anodisation

- Flashed it with Anduril

- Bypassed the springs

- Swapped the glass for AR

- Fitted brass screws

  • Changed the switch LEDs from green to warm white

And today, for the pièce de résistance, my Q8 MCPCB with 4 x 3V XHP50.2s arrived from Sofirn (a custom order which they were happy to oblige).

It’s an absolute weapon now. In my Maukka-calibrated lumen sphere it went from 6,400 lumens with the old XP-L HDs to 16,600 lumens with the XHP50.2s. That’s just over a 10,000 lumen increase! Not bad for $20 :smiley:

Now to wait for it to get dark so I can take it for a proper test drive.

Wow :open_mouth:


It looks battle ready. Nice job!

@chatika Vas Paus
what method do you use to polish your lens on your L2 Mod? very nice work, how does it throw? Thank you

Sandpaper 600>1000>5000
This is my first thrower, so I have no comparison, but I’m (still) impressed. Shines much better than C8 with xpl hi, due to easier led centering.
See the Lexel thread on this scalping method.