Do you mean that we should use PB0(pin14), PB1(pin13) or PB4(pin10), PB5(pin9) for TCA0 ?
I was talking more about which ADC pins to use. The attiny1616 has two ADC peripherals: ADC0 and ADC1. The temperature sensor is built into ADC0 and FSM (Anduril’s base) is designed to use just the one ADC. So if you need an ADC pin for reading voltage, I’d pick one on ADC0.
If there’s to be such a thing as a “standard” attiny1616 layout for Anduril, I’ve proposed this, at least for easily replacing the t85 on existing drivers. Deviations are fine, but these should work well:
- eSwitch: PA5
- Aux LED: PB5
- PWM FET: PB0 (TCA0 WO0)
- PWM 1×7135: PB1 (TCA0 WO1)
- Voltage: VCC (or an ADC0 pin)
First mod today was to build my long awaited S2+ triple. I bought a copper pill many years ago from a fellow BLF member. The pill came from Russia. Have had this a long time and forgot all about it, but found it before Christmas. So I order up a triple 20mm noctigon from Hank at the Int’l Outdoor store, complete with some 4000k 95CRI SST-20’s. And the optic.
Also decided to go for the BLF A6/DD17 driver and a new grey S2+ host.
First snag, at some point Convoy must have changed the threads in the S2+ as the copper pill would not screw into the new S2, so I stripped down a very early red S2 and used that instead.
Quite pleased with the result.
I have a triple XP-G2 in my BLF Ti, although that is running a Qlite driver. The tint on the SST-20’s is nice, but when you compare to the XP-G2’s you can see how blue the 4000k is.
The DD17 driver works well with the SST-20’s and Samsung 30Q. Despite offering a bigger hotspot than the XP-G2’s, the higher output modes give the SST-20’s more throw and output.
Also modded a Convoy C8. This is an old host with the removable pill. It was running a Nichia219B direct drive. But replaced with an Osram W1 and 5 amp 4 mode driver. I only have an OP reflector, but the beam and throw still look pretty impressive. Need to test it a bit more though.
Thanks for your prompt reply. I have just received my ATtiny416-XNANO for testing. Your advice is very helpful for the beginner writing codes. You are subscribed.
For a very long time I’ve been looking to do a mod, inspired by this thread of g_damian, and this CRX thread, and this Firelight2 thread, and even some comfychair mods I once managed to see.
To all of you, thanks for the tips and and descriptions of the work done, as it was a tremendous help
What I wanted to do was a “shortened” Convoy S2+, triple, using a Jaxman 18500 battery, and using an 18650 battery!
This week I received the tube and yesterday I took some time yo make it happen
I had to “dismantle” the blue S2+ that I put together sometime ago here and I used an extra S2 pill I had for the job! Used a file, and my Parkside tool (dremmel like) with a cilinder of sandpaper and a drill for the middle hole.
The leds are Luxeon V2 3000K , under a Carclo 10511, and powered by a TA Bistro HD OTSM driver from Lexel . The retaining ring was made by kiriba-ru, the FC switch is from Convoy. The pocket clip is from Nitefox ES10K, and the blue tailcap from the LHT store at AliExpress. The GITD gasket is from CRX
I put some adhesive tape to mark the limit I wanted to file/sand, and also to protect the other threads, as sometimes it hard not to damage something.
Then I did the filing/sanding work until the top of the pill was flat and until I had taken enough material from the threads so that the pill could get it but still make “contact” with the walls of the head. Then I drilled the hole in the pill.
And the the rest was soldering and putting things in place.
The 18500 tube colour matches pretty well with the S2+ colours, and only the knurling is slightly different.
Convoy S6 > Convoy S2+ Desert Tan > Convoy S2+ black > Convoy S2+ blue > Convoy S2 18350 > Convoy S2+ DT 18350 > Convoy S2+ black 18350 > Convoy T2
Nice work! I like the proportions of it, always thought the std is too long, and 18350 too short.
Nice mod and pics, MascaratumB!
Yup, the size of it is quite nice this way. To be even better, it could be slimmer to take 16650 cells (which have a reasonable capacity, even if not
so good for high-drain). THAT would be cool
Thanks g_damian Your work inspired me much in this mod, so thanks for your details too
This will be a “user” for sure, as it has a great tint, a UI that I like an can configure, and also takes a good capacity/high-drain cell
Great mod. I especially like the pocket clip; one major obstacle for me to carrying my S2+/Jaxman E2l these days is the horrid clips I’ve got for them.
They also lose out on size to much better lights, but that’s another story.
I modded a MT35 Plus with SBT90.2 a few weeks ago. Here is the thread if you want to look. MT35 Plus with SBT90.2 mod ( GT90 kit from Texas Ace )
22 amps on turbo
2700 meter throw
I like your mod MascaratumB. Nice job!
Yup, that pocket clip is quite nice, smaller and thougher than the “screw in” clips that Simon and other stores sell. AliExpress sells some nice clip, you may wanna take a look there. They are bigger than this one, though.
I forgot to mentuon that the clip was previously used in th Jaxman E3, and by that time I “flamed” it with a lighter, hence that blueish colour.
Thank you Neutral Fan
Turned out quite nice, I guess, doesn’t it ?
Not a very difficult mod, but with a nice result!!
I reflowed Nichia E17As onto a VR16SP4m board! Mic drop…
Never again will I attempt to do this. The board is a little beat up due to breaking the original E17As that were perfect from Virence, trying to reflow other E17As that went horribly bad, and then super gluing an LED spacer as an experiment.
I put very, very little soldering paste onto each of the 4 LED pads, but it was still too much. So I removed the extra solder with a toothpick while positioning each LED into place, but then 2 little solder blobs got between the LEDs. Argh! Once the board cooled down, luckily I was able to split a toothpick and pluck them away.
About super-gluing led spacers. I use a different approach.
- first I superglue a 2-3mm long part of a plastic tube around the led.
On the search for a suitable tube the outer diameter is paramount.
The outer diameter shoud fit (not tight but snug) in the hole of the reflector.
Any attempt to bring the diameter down is (in my case) a risk of it not staying circular…
The inner diameter of the tube is less critical for me as I have plenty objects to enlarge it.
I try to make the inner diameter as large as the diagonal of the die.
That should be enough to CENTER the led properly.
Then I will look for a piece of plastic to make a “shim” that I can place on the leadboard.
With the above mentioned tube poking trough. The reflector rests on the shim.
Find the correct thickness for the shim and you are able to FOCUS the led.
As a bonus, such a shim prevents the leads to short with the base of the reflector.
Unless you find the ideal centering ring it is always a bit of a wiggle to CENTER and FOCUS.
My method divides that time consuming chore into 2 separate (quite easy) actions.
Been wanting to build something like this for ages, although made a slight mistake as the driver I wanted to use were 20-22mm. So I had to find an alternative 17mm to use. Lower amps, but hoping it’ll still be quite nice. Unless anyone knows of a similar sized host that uses larger drivers?
Convoy M1. I have an original when Simon first launched these, the current version is nicer. Shorter overall, more matt anodising and different machining.
Matched with a 17mm driver and a 5000k Cree MT-G2. A big LED in a relatively little torch
Wires soldered up:
Tidied up and driver seated and retained:
The reflector gets quite close, so to avoid any shorts some insulation of the contacts:
The reflector needed no mods, the hole was big enough for the MT-G2. Centring was a little challenging as I’m not using any kind of gasket or ring. A few tweaks to the star and screw down tight and probably a fair does of luck and it doesn’t look too bad
The LED dome fits well in the OP reflector.
Final touch a deep carry pocket clip:
And we’re done!
Will have to wait until it gets dark to try it out and I’ll see if I can get come cd/lumen readings. I’m not expecting it to be a lumen monster due to the driver choice. But the beam is looking quite nice so far. I wanted something with a nice bright even beam, but with more throw than a flood TIR or aspheric lens.
Cool, will be looking for those beamshots
I’d be interested in seeing some pics if you have them.
I found super gluing the regular LED spacers, with the ends cut off, works very well.
I envy your soldering skills NeutralFan! Looking good
The Boruit BC07 is an interesting flashlight. The quality of workmanship surprised me. Although I do not like zoom flashlights, I will probably leave this one for myself.