While standing at the belt sander, I kept thinking, āI wish I was friends with a machinist.ā
gchart, I removed most of the metal using a belt sander with a 40-grit belt, and itās slow going. I moved the bezel side-to-side across the belt, and regularly rotated it to prevent uneven wear.
I love this quote by āold4570ā I found in this thread while reading about grinding/filing/sanding stainless bezels:
I surprised myself by managing to keep all three Q8 bezels very flat and even. I left them installed while working so the light could act as a handle and heatsink.
What lights are you thinking of altering? Perhaps you could start with an easily-replaceable (and available) bezel in case it doesnāt work out.
Iāve done this sort of thing too many times with a belt sander and a file. I still do some things that way, believe it or not.
I personally would rather add crenelations than remove them, as I head stand all my lights and like being able to see if Iāve left one on in moon mode or something.
I havenāt really posted a mod in this thread in a while. Simple mod, but I swapped the LED in my ThorFire TK05. The stock āneutral whiteā XP-G3 was as blue as could be. I bought some Samsung LH351D 5000K from DigiKey and reflowed one onto a filed-down copper dtp board. Took some pics while I was in there, then put it back together.
Nice, truly neutral light now. And a lot more lumens. By my estimate, 50% more while in turbo and 33% more medium. Just as long of a runtime, too. More pics and details in this thread, but Iāll share a few here.
click for larger images
Beamshots [before], left to right: ThorFire TK05 (XP-G3), Klarus Mi7 (XP-L HI), Convoy M1 (XP-L 5000K)
Beamshots [after], left to right: ThorFire TK05 (LH351D 5000K), Klarus Mi7 (XP-L HI), Convoy M1 (XP-L 5000K). I apologize for the white balance difference between this and the last shot. But in comparing the three LEDs, you get the idea.
Runtimes. Disclaimer: the TK05 was tested with a Wuben-wrapped 600mah 14500. The Mi7 was using an Sanyo 800mah 14500. I need to retest with like cells.
Swapped the driver in my s41s to the x5/x6 driver, and swapped in a lighted switch. Both from BG.
Would like a better lighted switch than a single LED, but it works.
Loving this driver
Gotcha. I donāt like the beam pattern of the s42 optics with xp-l hi and maybe this is the solution. I think using the stock mcpcb as a spacer might work. Have to sand it down to expose the copper obviously.
After several hours my first real Mini C8 mod is finished. :)
The JAXMAN M8 (formerly known as Mini C8) is one of my absolute favourite light still today.
A long time ago I got some of these cheap LED bulbs at the german Aldi SĆ¼d (12 V GU5.3 with 38 Ā° beam angle).
This mod features this large coin spacer with 62 grams weight. :)
Some days ago I noticed that the lens of it fits perfectly in the M8 head and I got the idea of a Nichia triple for floody high CRI light.
It looks small even in comparison with a Thrunite TiS / Ti3:
The beam pattern is beautiful, with flood everywhere.
The saturation is incredibly high, even higher than of the Lumileds Luxeon MZ 5700 K 90CRI I tested recently. In direct comparison the tint of the used Nichia 219BT-V1 R9050 sw57 is a bit rosy and more on the blue side, but not too much. The XP-G3 shown here is definitly warmer than the stated 5700 K (and a lot greener!) despite it was ordered at Mouser:
The M8 is powered by a good old 105c, with custom firmware (3 modes + 1 moonlight), with 2,800 mAmps current. I didn't want a dragster, but a useful and durable light for everyday use and I have the option for increase the current sometime. But I'm satisfied with that, and on highest mode (no stepdown) the battery lasts for more than one hour.