I measured with an integrating sphere so secondhand-exited light in un-intended directions will be measured alright.
I sure don’t understand all reflections but here’s two views into a smooth reflector, from the exact same angle, outside the cone containing spot and spill (pardon me the dust). Left with lens, right without lens.
Ah yes, then if you used a sphere it’s correct.
You can see that the lens causes scattering by reflecting the light that doesn’t pass through it.
It doesn’t behave like a perfect mirror, reflecting the light back to where it came from.
Driver swap - replaced stock driver with 17mm e-switch driver from Mountain Electronics with D4 V2 UI. Light now runs exclusively on IMR 14500.
Emitter swap - replaced stock emitter with XPL HI 5A2 on Copper Noctigon.
Internal switch swap - original switch was part of the stock driver so I needed to replace it. I used an old 2.5 mm momentary pushbutton from Radio Shack. The switch is glued to the new driver with lots of Arctic Alumina epoxy.
Added ring - Cut an aluminum ring and then glued it around the metal pushbutton. The ring turns the raised button into a flush button and greatly reduces the risk of accidental pocket activation, while still allowing the light to be activated easily without using lockout (though lockout is still available if needed).
Foybezeled off the crenelations on the bezel and tailcap, then smoothed the edges for a more pocket-friendly feel. Also results in a shorter light (total length: 87mm)
Filed the anodizing off the tops of the knurling and heatsink fins.
Used Greased Lightning to remove the anodizing from the top and bottom halves of the bezel and tailcap. To get the serrated appearance, I used some fringe-cutting sewing scissors to cut pieces of vinyl electroplating tape which I then used to mask the anodizing I did not wish to remove. I’ve had this roll of tape around for a few years. The original idea for using this tape comes from OldLumens. He used it to mask off parts of a maglight to make a flame pattern. The stuff works great.
Polished up the bare aluminum with Blue Magic metal polish. The slightly less polished area between the teeth at the head of the light is because I soaked the head in Greased Lightning in two stages. First stage did not have the serrated pattern. Second did. However, I think the second soak might not have been long enough. Not sure I’ll sure resoak the head though… I think it looks pretty-good as is.
Reflowed 4x virgin LH351D to my Q8 with the proper amount of solder this time. So far I only tested with one lightly used VTC6 (4326lm) and no damage so far and the light does work in moonlight mode again so i’m optimistic that when I put my 4 30Q’s in there and re-test all will be fine.
Wanted to post something as not to discourage people from using their Samsung emitters when it was probably me just not using enough solder during reflow.
Seems to have worked. I had to use the emitters I got from AEDe (4000K 90CRI) but I went ahead and ordered more of the 5000K 80CRI to play with. I think I will test them in a C8F instead.
Shoebox test with 4x 30Q’s, spring bypass, new screws, AR lens, slightly longer LED wires (only on LH351D):
Contactcr’s numbers are a bit high compared to mine. I have the same leds in my Q8 (and all the bypasses, just not a new AR lens) and the output stays below 5000 lm, even at startup.
But lumens are nowhere the same
In your original post you said phosphor bronze springs. What did you get with full bypass? Can you pair your best body tube with that head and test for me?
My numbers are likely high but i’d be surprised if it was not even 5k? That would make my XPL numbers far too low if i was 15% too high lets assume.
I robbed the tail from an old cheapy zoomy and add a (led4power’s) lighted tail switch to my astrolux E01. This light usually gets used most when we’re camping as a night-light. Being that it is now dual switch I can extinguish all light (head and tail) by using the side switch (off).
