DQG Hobi Titanium 532nm green laser upgraded with a magnetic forward clicky tail switch and 10250 cell, X3 got me thinking about this one ;)
DQG Hobi Ti Seoul Viosys 365nm UV incorporating a Forward clicky tail switch keyring attachment and heat anodised.
Didn't turn out quite how I hoped but still something a little different. Could be to do with the titanium used maybe?, the clip took the colour much more easily.
Well, both transmission results look too high. Glass should be about 92%ā¦.
But anyway, this result means that I still canāt explain why your LED performs lower than expected.
Beware CRX, lasers are addictive too
Really nice work, as usual !
I found some 10250 on Ali, gotta order them along with some 9mm FW switches to make a Tool AAA 520nm green laser :-p
Notice the part at the bottom where it says āthickness only slightly affects the transmissionā
It doesnāt double when you go from 1 to 2mm.
Also if it is AR coated then it could be far less than 15% loss.
The majority of light loss comes from the interface between air and the material, which happens twice, once on each side.
I do not know how glass transmissions are generally measured, but I can imagine that some average incoming angle is taken for it. In a flashlight with reflector however the majority of the light (the part coming from the reflector) hits the lens almost perpendicular to the glass, at which angle the reflection is at its minimum. In any case, just under 95% is what I have measured before, and so have others (on phone, no link ready atm).
Cool
K&S brass tubing can be really useful when mucking about with these small builds, comes in all different sizes, 0.45mm walls usually and they fit well inside each other.
Iāve seen lens companies quote standard borosilicate lens as having 10% losses. UCL from flashlightlens.com has a 99% transmission while their UCLp has up to 97% transmission, they say, but Iāve seen a large UCLp lens lately with 6% loss in lumens as compared to a standard Lexan lens with 11% loss.
Olight is known for having glass lenses that add a green tint to the light, MaxToch has used glass that blocks quite a bit of light, usually it shows what kind of lens it is to lay it on a piece of white paper and see the tint in the glass, high transmission lenses will almost disappear on the paper.
I got my new black finish Emisar D1s and pulled the driver, removed the FET and MCU so I could replace the FET with a Vishay SIR404DP, replaced the MCU with one I flashed Anduril into. Put it back together with 18 gauge leads for some 1600 lumens out the front on the stock Neutral White emitter. Very happy with it now as it matches my other Emisarās. Itās fun to have 4 or 5 lights with Candlelight mode going in the same room.
āIf the typical reflection off an uncoated lens is 8-10% (depending on the wavelength) then coating just a single surface would only bring that down to about 4.5-6% reflection. Once both sides are coated, the total reflection drops to about 1-2%. ā
This is for regular glass, so of course it is a bit worse for sapphire.
As I said earlier, most of the loss happens between the two mediums.
Increasing from 1 to 2mm will barely make a difference.
The only thing that would double the loss (as djozz mentioned here What did you mod today? - #5217 by djozz) would be having two lenses with air in between.
PS- most of the light from a flashlight passes through the lens at 0 degrees because the reflector is parabolic.
I vote for Agroās explanation :party: , of course most reflected light back into the reflector wil simply have another go exiting through the lens, and again, until it is either absorpted or left the flashlight.
It wouldnāt be collimated after refracting and reflecting multiple times.
If you measured with an integration sphere then yes you would get low absorption but if you measured with a luxmeter then no, only a very small amount of recycled light would hit it.