What did you mod today?

[contactcr]

@DB Custom

Oh, you mean you can damage the dome with hot air? Wish someone would have told me that a couple of years ago… my hot air station only goes to 480C though, maybe that’s why I’ve gotten away with it…

Hot air and silicone, yum.

[jon_slider]

@chops728

I’m worried I’ll mess the dome up on the emitter—I’m thinking about putting a small disc (10mm) of aluminum on my hot plate and that way it just heats under the LED

thats a great idea… you could accomplish the same with hot air blown under the LED. Suggest you try air temp down around 250C

Im pretty sure the dome will come off if you heat the LED from above w hot air… that is my experience anyway, using 400C hot air (bad idea)

@Geuzzz

glow behind the optic, trit in the pocket clip and an epoxide magnet tail.

nice mods!
my EDC atm is a 3500k E21a… in V11r

Im really liking the 3500k E21a LOT!

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I’ll grab a gallon of milk on the way over C…

[Rm404]

! !

Convoy s6 with Nichia Optisolis 4000k quad from ViRenCe and LD-A4 3amp driver. Thanks Clemence!

[riffraff]

@BobbyMK

Is it safe to say that ive created the worst looking flashlight? We all know how big of a flop the Haikelite HT08 was, so i decided to put it to a good use and made adapter for 68mm aspheric lens.

We’re still waiting for the beamshots! :heart_eyes: :heart_eyes:

[Geuzzz]

@jon_slider

@chops728

I’m worried I’ll mess the dome up on the emitter—I’m thinking about putting a small disc (10mm) of aluminum on my hot plate and that way it just heats under the LED

thats a great idea… you could accomplish the same with hot air blown under the LED. Suggest you try air temp down around 250C

Im pretty sure the dome will come off if you heat the LED from above w hot air… that is my experience anyway, using 400C hot air (bad idea)

@Geuzzz

glow behind the optic, trit in the pocket clip and an epoxide magnet tail.

nice mods!
my EDC atm is a 3500k E21a… in V11r

Im really liking the 3500k E21a LOT!

Thanks! I have a v11r laying around somewhere, might have to try that E21a.

[BobbyMK]

@riffraff

We’re still waiting for the beamshots! :heart_eyes: :heart_eyes:

I only have few bad ones taken with my phone. Basically its a laser pointer, not really useful but fun.

[riffraff]

That is pretty neat, I must say! :+1:

[Ryzbor]

@Rm404

! !

Convoy s6 with Nichia Optisolis 4000k quad from ViRenCe and LD-A4 3amp driver. Thanks Clemence!

Interesting, which particular optic did you chose?

[Rm404]

@Ryzbor

@Rm404

! !

Convoy s6 with Nichia Optisolis 4000k quad from ViRenCe and LD-A4 3amp driver. Thanks Clemence!

Interesting, which particular optic did you chose?

I forget exactly which but I think it’s a medium frosted carclo 10623. Really smooth, great tint and plenty bright. Surprisingly pleasing light quality, actually.

[contactcr]

The BOSS of all lights succumb to a tiny crepe pan. This is now my 2nd “mod” that did not require a soldering iron. Granted this was much more delicate than the first but i’m counting it.

Before:

No soldering wires here. Can’t argue with what works I guess? Liberal application of thermal paste, good! Maybe too much but I wont take points away.

Sanded components, come on. AL board for a $110 driver? She’s thicc at least…

The tiny LED tower is actually super cool. The board is drilled and it’s pressed in a tiny hole. The tower has traces running up each side. It really makes this tiny LED appear to be something with much more output.

After:

Crepe ingredients: 1x 2700K, 1x 3500K, 1x 5000K LH351D 90CRI. Better refer to your pics of bond wires to figure out polarity cause I couldn’t make out markings…

One of the two tiny resistors just below the bottom pad tried to fly with his XP-L buddy. Thankfully I noticed and was able to push him back to his home before things got out of hand. Toothpick and just a touch of paste after cleaning her up.

Hey it worked, i’m a little surprised.

Adding some spectrum goodies here for future reference. I believe Oveready uses UCL lenses but this one is from 2016 Q4 so who knows. It’s a thick piece of glass so it probably is. Low (2W), Medium (6.5W), High (17W)

CCT = 3644K (Duv 0.0004)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 96.6 [ R9 = 84.4 ]

CCT = 3680K (Duv 0.0001)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 96.1 [ R9 = 82.8 ]

CCT = 3705K (Duv –0.0010)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 95.5 [ R9 = 80.2 ]

[DarkShot]

Flashed an updated version of Anduril and swapped in some LH351D dogfarts into my newly arrived blue FW3A

4000k SST-20 vs 5000k LH351D, orange spill on the SST-20 from a glow gasket

[Figgy]

@BobbyMK Make a 2nd one and sell me it oh but instead of white. why not black

https://i.imgur.com/R4IKWY0.jpg

[CRX]

CRX Brass & SS 532nm 20mW Green Laser - 10280 - Momentary, Forward Clicky Tail Sw - 250mA.

CRX Brass 10180,10250,10280 Charger - 70mA - 200mA.

[CRX]

CRX CuTi Laser Osram PLTB45B 450nm 1600mW - OFBD 1.6A - 10280 - Mo Button & Twisty Tail Sw - 1600mW.

[contactcr]

Nice mods. Just bought my first DQG hobi plus after all these years I still couldn’t find a better keychain twist.

[CRX]

Yeah I love these little lights, got a Ti Hobi plus with the lighter section, Seoul Viosys 365nm UV.

[Geuzzz]

@contactcr

The BOSS of all lights succumb to a tiny crepe pan. This is now my 2nd “mod” that did not require a soldering iron. Granted this was much more delicate than the first but i’m counting it.

Before:

No soldering wires here. Can’t argue with what works I guess? Liberal application of thermal paste, good! Maybe too much but I wont take points away.

Sanded components, come on. AL board for a $110 driver? She’s thicc at least…

The tiny LED tower is actually super cool. The board is drilled and it’s pressed in a tiny hole. The tower has traces running up each side. It really makes this tiny LED appear to be something with much more output.

After:

Crepe ingredients: 1x 2700K, 1x 3500K, 1x 5000K LH351D 90CRI. Better refer to your pics of bond wires to figure out polarity cause I couldn’t make out markings…

One of the two tiny resistors just below the bottom pad tried to fly with his XP-L buddy. Thankfully I noticed and was able to push him back to his home before things got out of hand. Toothpick and just a touch of paste after cleaning her up.

Hey it worked, i’m a little surprised.

Adding some spectrum goodies here for future reference. I believe Oveready uses UCL lenses but this one is from 2016 Q4 so who knows. It’s a thick piece of glass so it probably is. Low (2W), Medium (6.5W), High (17W)

CCT = 3644K (Duv 0.0004)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 96.6 [ R9 = 84.4 ]

CCT = 3680K (Duv 0.0001)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 96.1 [ R9 = 82.8 ]

CCT = 3705K (Duv –0.0010)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 95.5 [ R9 = 80.2 ]

Nice Job! Great light.

[Rm404]

! !

I filed down the rim of the s2+ pill and polished the whole shelf to fit a 21mm ViRenCe mcpcb. 4500k E21A, 45° optic, LD-a4 driver.
I did the same for this old HDS but copper disk. 3500k E21A, 60° optic, LD-a4 driver and clicky switch.

[Sirius9]

Hi guys, need your help.
I got into possession of one like brand new JETBeam RRT-3 (review link) but LED (SST-50) craped out, I want to replace the led (not with SST-50 but something in 3V range like SST-40 or something more exciting) but first I need to disasemble it and here lies the problem, there is no obvious way how to do that, I need instructions of someone that already opened one. I don’t want to use brutal force and risk damaging the light.
I have experience with JETBeam RRT-2 and its not just matter of unscrewing the thing, that one was assembled with bolts (driver, magnetic ring and parts of the head that hold all this together) but I can’t find the bolts on RRT-3!
With this (magnetic ring) lights it’s hard to speculate if you don’t own the light.