What did you mod today?

Alu weighs less than copper and if thermals are good enough it’s a perfectly fine choice. That said - I’m surprised as well.

Tool ti with 3000k sst-20. We will see if this one has less pocket activation than the copper tool with clicky.

Is it twisty or clicky with a flush button?

Flush e-clicky

I think you might be confusing the model names, there’s no D25D that i’m aware of?

My pre-2015 D25A has a removable bezel, just unscrews to give access to the reflector and then the MCPCB. Bit tight in there for a soldering iron though so make sure you have patience and a thin soldering tip when you come to do it. (Learnt that the hard way :D)
That’s for the Alu version though, i believe the Ti is a one piece head. Jon_slider, maybe this is what you’re thinking of?

Edit: Oh, and it’s a 14mm MCPCB.

I never thought to use a flip-flop, even hand held it’s so much easier than the piece of rubber i’ve been using, top tip!

Loads of good tips and info in this thread btw, and i’m in awe of so many people’s skills and creativity, and patience! I generally refrain from commenting though else i’ll sound like an over-excited fanboy.

D25C is probably what was meant, rather than D25D.

I was told the D25A had a press-fit pill by someone, so I never bothered to pick one up. Can’t recall who said it, though I think they were talking about cracking some part of a D25A Ti
Edit: Read from here

Oh yes, the D25C would make sense!
As far as the A goes, even though Djozz is talking about the Ti version i suspect the Alu version also has the press-fit pill, the difference is that the Alu version has a removable bezel which gives some access to the LED whereas the Ti version doesn’t. (From what i’ve read, never had the Ti version to check).

Edit: Just realised Djozz mentions his D25A Ti on the previous page, didn’t see that until after i replied.

So, almost not worthy of mention… I have a Shadow JM20 that I dearly love, years ago I dropped in the XM-L2 4C but it always seemed underdriven. The factory springs are what I blamed, finally swapped in a set of BLF Gen. 3 springs, got just over 1 amp more out of the driver!!!

I also swapped the horribly cold emitter in my Sofirn SC31B, I installed an SST-20 4000k FD2 and it is wonderful now. This is really a very good light, the switch is stiff enough and recessed enough to carry in your pocket and at basically 4 amps it will not set your pocket on fire on high! The reflector in this light is about as perfect for the SST-20 and one could hope for, the beam is super clean!

Where did you order the 22mm 14x7135 board? I need to get ahold of one of those and Mountain is out.

thanks, youre right D25C and D3C have bezels
D25A and D3A I think have pressed pills, and no bezel

Old rotor , new knife .


Looks orsm Rdubya18. Have you made any others?

Thanks , first from a rotor.

I never would have thought of making a knife from a rotor! Nice!

I ordered it from Here

That’s where i ordered it as well. It even got cheaper, i paid almost a dollar more :money_mouth_face:

it’s a good little driver for the money . personally prefer the P4000 it gives almost the same current on 1 cell but you have the option of adding a second cell, just in case ‘SHTF / teotwawki’

you’ll need a 20mm to 22mm adapter for the P4000 but its no biggie here’s the links to both



Either choice is a good choice I’ve abused both and they’re both still going strong

14x 7135 22mm

I like that, have you tried a bearing race?