people name the SMD values often wrong, seen that in other topics recently
in this case they are not R100 or 100 Ohm resistors
that is 10*10^0 → 10 Ohms
for example a 102 Resistor is not 102 Ohm its 1kOhm
R100 instead is a 0.1Ohm resistor usually from current sense shunts
a resistor from Zener mods is usually real 200 Ohms so 201 marking, those are too big for an MCU low pass filter, usually 4.7-10 Ohm are used
I don’t know why I called it R100, I know better.
I do use the 200 Ohm resistors, doubled up for 100 ohm. They work fine. ( or seem to )
So, I’d be better off using a lesser value, 1/10th or less what I’ve been using? I may have some 4.7 Ohm, will look into it and may well just order some 10Ohm strictly for use in Bistro driver builds. I meant to get the right ones some time ago but life happened…
So, these would work?
4.7Ohm is the original value that was implemented in the low pass
old Bistro has a voltage divider which monitors battery voltage, no problem there to use bigger values, the low pass is more effective
Bistro HD OTSM or Anduril/NarsilM use the MCU supply voltage to monitor battery, so if the MCU draws about 1.5mA current you get a voltage drop of 0.15V
Thanks for clarifying Lexel, I have 99 of those 4.7 Ohm so I should be good for a minute, or two. 
Would it be worth going back in and changing the 100 Ohm to a 4.7? Seems like the reversing isn’t reliable and that’s one of my favorite features of Bistro (and the A6 driver for that matter)
Tired and upset. My job is squeezing all the juice out of me.
what job do you do pal
Turner at the factory.
My wife is a nurse and there are so many people with the Flu and a stomach virus that she’s getting worn down to a frazzle. Some of the nurses are getting sick, making them short handed at work so of course my little 5’ 0” fireball has to do it all. LOL
Health care is a job that zaps people, for sure.
Got bored and decided to do an emitter swap in my Fenix HP25 headlamp. This light sits in my car with lithium primaries as an emergency light. Put an SST-20 3000K in the flood side, and an LH351D 4000K in the reflector side.
3000K flood (WB set to 4500K for consistency with some other recent beamshots):
4000K “throw”:
Both on together:
You better change LEDs in places, 351D are more floody
Yeah, but I like the bigger hot spot from it on the reflector side. That’s the side I would use the most anyway, and don’t really care for a small hotspot beaming off my head; it’s kind of useless. Plus I wanted a warmer option for the “flood” (it’s almost more of a mule), and all I have in 3000K is an SST-20.
Not today but earlier this week I modded my yootoo SD1 (with 3500K 90CRI LH351D) with a piece of motorcycle inner tyre.
A few days ago my third chinese handlebar flashlight holder broke off. Flashlight holders for your bicycle handlebar either come very cheap but from too brittle rubber, or better quality with adjustment options that make them too bulky. I want simple AND reliable, so I skipped buying a fourth one but instead simply attached a piece of tyre over the lanyard ring of my SD1. A good solution, the light points forward, can be adjusted up and down, and stays firmly in place under all conditions. A motorcycle tyre has the right diameter for this solution.
I can only envisage what you teach like in school Djozz. 
I’m in charge of all the experimenting stuff at school, and since we have to be frugal (schools are never rich), whenever possible we use everyday cheap materials to show principles of physics, chemistry and biology. So yes, finding cheap and clever solutions is part of the job
That’s my kind of solution Djozz……KISS
Way to think outside the box. 
Wondering how you like the 3500k LH351D? Is it a SPHWHTL3DA0GF4UPP6?
I would have to look the code up, I bought a whole bunch of these from contactcr a few months ago. I like them a lot although they are not holy grail leds: the hotspot is still slightly above the BBL when used in a reflector light. On a white wall they do not look rosy but in actual use both indoors and outdoors the tint is very attractive and the colours it brings up look great.
I purchased this cheap zoomie to leave in my work car for emergency use. And after removing a real XHP70 from my Buffalo mod, it was time to put it to some good use. I had practiced my first dedome on it. The tint was a big improvement and the light performed much better. If anyone has a suggestion how to mod the driver for a little more amp, but not too much, I’m all ears.
XANES® 1282 XHP70 LED 3 Modes USB Rechargeable Telescopic Zoom LED Flashlight 18650/26650
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The led was loose, so the thermal compound did not spread across the board, it was a copper mcpcb.
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The fake XHP70
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Got a picture of the driver? May be pretty easy to bump power, may need a driver swap…
Usually there will be a sense resistor, labeled R080 or R056 or something like that… reducing that will give you more output but reducing it too much can fry some divers… totally depends on what the driver is. There is a good online resistance calculator I like to use from SengpielAudio, a lot of times it’s easiest to stack a resistor to get the desired result. I’ve used salvaged R140’s for this for years, removed from drivers I replaced. (The D80 had two of these, I had a LOT of D80 drivers I’d swapped out!)
( in that link, scroll past the first box down to the larger calculator, )