Is this a 15mm x ~9mm TIR? Where did you find it? The Stainless “Enogear” uses the same one I think but with small LED opening
Edit; I was wrong, I clicked into your post and it’s a bigger one. Still, if anyone knows where to find a 15mm TIR let me know
No, this is a bigger TIR :exclamation:
This is the original one, as shown here:
The one I used in the mod has similar size, but the opening for the led is different, seems more suited for 5050 leds instead of 3030, hence the difference in the beam too!
The optic on the Enogear light is surely smaller, but I didn’t open it yet to know if other TIRs I have will fit ! :+1:
Cu Tool aaa head, mod to shaved LH351d 5000k
the LH351d is 14% brighter than than the sw45k
Piece of copper and silicone cube for a bit more high mode:
I put in 3 SST-20’s 4000k from from the Sofirn store and a MTN Fet DD 20mm in a C8F. More of a parts assembly than a crazy mod, but it suits my needs so far. I like rear-clicky’s but maybe I’ll put in a sofirn driver with e-switch eventually. Removed the internal switch for now and re-installed the silicone boot too keep water/debris out. Used 18ga wire but left it long enough to not blow the sst-20’s and be able to swap drivers later if I decide to. LG MJ1’s get the light warm pretty fast but don’t seem to change the color or threaten blowing the LED’s. I probably won’t try a 25R, but will look for a high capacity 21700 with less extreme discharge in the future. Still haven’t gotten on the 21700 train yet.
I forgot what a pain teflon coated wire can be to work with, but the skinny slots under the reflector and solder pads made it a good choice and I made it work somehow without destroying any thing 
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I had to leave the leads long enough from the MCPCB to solder to the driver after the head and reflector was assembled. Kind of a pain for a novice modder like me, but it worked out.
Sorry, I forgot pics of how I coiled the teflon wired inside the body, but it’s not hard to imagine and worked pretty well. I’m pleased with the beam profile and want to build another one. Wish I had the confidence to slice an sst-20.
<img src=“https://imgur.com/Mer1XUz” alt=”
sst-20 with reflector assembled and light thermal paste, pre-fingerprint removal and lens/bezel install. Very easy light for a novice modder.
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<img src=“https://imgur.com/6icBKqP” alt=”
After finger print removal and bezel install
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<img src=“https://imgur.com/LblYnNu” alt=
Tail switch polished parts and De-oxit applied to all contacts. Is there an easy way to make a lighted tailswitch with the Mtn fet driver? Do I need a bleeder resistor if I put led’s on the 21mm board? Stock switch is very beefy already and has spots for leds it looks like.” />
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<img src=“https://imgur.com/Ug7KLHm” alt=
Mtn fet DD 20mm fit nicely in 21mm slot. De-oxit applied to contacts, already came bypass (older version of driver, still works though) Guppydrive rev 2” />
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<img src=“https://imgur.com/hAl9s0f” alt=“Beam shot on protected 6a battery just to make sure I didn’t blow anything. Nice beam, even on protected battery it’s bright enough to hurt your eyes on turbo reflecting off a wall about 8m away.
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And I suck at computers. Fixed the images by using “simple post editor” instead of advanced, because I’m simple. Sorry for the sloppy post. 
Good work! 
I sliced an SST-20 C8F once and it wasn’t as nice as I hoped. I felt it lost too much output. The focus might not have been ideal with stock insulation rings but its been too long. Ymmv
Why the beefy Teflon just to coil it up? Just use 20G silicone don’t punish yourself 
If you decide to enable e-switch consider doing Anduril with last mode memorized setting enabled and your fwd switch will come on in the last brightness you used.
Now order stainless bezel!
Nice C8F mod. I rather liked how mine was setup, with a screw holding the MCPCB to the reflector, and then the screw from inside the driver cavity holding the reflector to the shelf. Makes a nice tight sandwich.
I’m actually going with a Mtn 20-DDm, and I’m hoping to flash Anduril to it since it comes with ATTiny85. We’ll see how that goes. I actually have a spare “21mm” of some variety of MTN FET+1 driver, also with an 85, as backup - though currently it would need filing to fit the C8F. The spare is from when I thought I fried my D4 driver - I hadn’t, but I don’t remember what the issue was.
I noticed yours has a double spring at the tail - mine came with a bypassed spring stock. Weird!
I retained the stock leads with I swapped emitters. I may swap them when I do the driver, I haven’t decided yet. My ideal Anduril setup for this light would be no flash indicating it’s on, and having the switch LEDs tell me when the light is powered. And no memorized level with the rear switch, just a power cut. I have the stainless bezel and can recommend it.
Also, had to troubleshoot something. The light was remaining powered with the rear switch “off”. I found that the rubber button cover I’d swapped in had a bit too much bump in it, and was leaving the forward-clicky ever so slightly engaged. Cut the rest of the nubbin part out of the switch boot and it’s working great now.
My Nitecore Extreme Infinity E3 xr-e q5
mod to 219c 3500k and 7135x3 12group
Nice build Mountainair26, I like it. 4000k SST-20’s are my favorite LEDs. LG MJ1’s are the highest capacity cells I have ever bought new, but all 10 of mine self-discharge since the day liionWholesale shipped them to me. I would be curious how fast yours lose voltage in a 24 hour time span. Mine lose about 7mAh per day.
Wow! Color contrast is much better with the Samsung.
I’m about shaving mine in my Klarus Mi1C for reduced greenish tint. Would you say this can be worthwile in this sense? And would it reduce the hotspot size significantly, what do you think?
disagree
the wood looks the wrong color w the LH351d, there is still a green cast, even though that LED has been shaved…
it is very difficult to get a good photo because of the hotspot in the beam. even with the sw45k, the wood looks extra pink, the beam has a pink cast
no LED actually renders colors like sunlight… :
I have no slicing experience, the data I have seen from contactcr is that slicing reduces CCT by about 500, lowers duv, by about 0.0020, and makes the beam have more throw…
Im trying to figure out why some people like the LH351d. afaict it is mostly due to more lumens, but the R9 is only 50, on the sw45k the R9 is about 95.
so imo, reds are richer w sw45k
and I still prefer pink tint over green tint, more lumens is not my priority, I dont use maximum on my lights
these next photos are from lights with diffused beams (optics), not reflector hotspots
I think you can tell the sw45k is showing redder reds
Thanks for the sunlight picture. Looks superior.
Coming up next in light technology: Hydrogen fusion.
Yes. And still your wife’s pendant shows slightly deeper reds in the Samsung picture and the wood shows green colors that are missing from the Nichia picture. That’s what I mean with color contrast. It’s not necessarily the nicer picture. But richer somehow. Or this is just me, don’t know.
I don’t prefer any of my LEDs. I love to have many different tints 
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Where did you source your LH351D from?
they came from contactcr
I suspect all 3500K are from DigiKey, see below:
2700,4000,5000 are available multiple places.
No, I can’t, still like the Samsung illuminated scenes better. They bring out more colors and more variety of reds. All just subjective.
ok, Di Gustibus Non Disputandum
however, the R9 difference, and duv difference is more than just subjective… it is substantive
in any case, photos are difficult to get consistent results, differences in white balance, and other variables
the best way to really know how you feel about any LED, is to try it in person.
Si quis est in vinum, et in sapientia.
But I’m (slightly) colorblind.
It’s a solid high power, high CRI LED, especially when sliced. Sometimes you get lucky and have a nice tint “out the box”. R9 is low and colours don’t pop as much, but I would much rather that than have an overly rosy (in the minority here I know!) or green tint.