Once again my first attempt at flaming a light resulted in blemishes 
Kinda disappointed because i like the clean edges on the ā¦. knurlingā¦??? not really knurling is it, but anyway i need to sand it back and do it again which means everything will get that rounded smoothy feel to it that iām not a fan of.
Woooaaah, another PP special, looks fantastic!
I bought 40x Omten1288 switches for cheap from cnqualitygoods when they still existed but now I have only a few left of those. Although I got pretty good in soldering them in (yes, spring first), of every two switches I destroyed one while working with them.
Lol, your comment made my evening djozz 
That looks amazing. Blemishes? Youāre being a bit rough on yourself.
I do like that texture (the ānot-knurlingā) on the tube. Seems grippy and different.
Agreed, looks amazing pinkpanda3310!
I thought i had hit the jackpot for colours this time round but since handling the light some the gold colour has dimmed to brown 
Still happy with it overall though 
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Absolutely Beautiful :heart_eyes:
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Is it possible to polish the Gold color back bright again and then apply a coat of floor wax to preserve it ?
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I never heard of anyone buffing the anodising beforeā¦ Depending on usage Iām guessing the wax would wear off pretty easily?? Kinda defeats the purpose of using titanium 
A few years ago, I started down the journey of learning to mod flashlights not just as a flashlight hobby, but also to develop my soldering and small electronics skills.
Not a flashlight, but all of those skills have recently helped me complete a very fun mod. The recent Game and Watch only comes with 3 embedded games, one of which simulates a simple LCD juggling game. Very limited from the factory, it only comes with a 1MB storage flash and no external connectivity, the USB-C port isnāt even connected to data.
For the mod below, you have to solder debugging pin headers, use an external flash board similar to what we use for flashlight MCUās, and finally, de-solder the existing 1MB flash storage and replace it with something larger, in my case I used a 16MB chip. After itās all complete, I now have over 50 NES and GameBoy games in addition to the factory firmware.
Good work on that! I donāt really get into gaming too muchā¦ I didnāt even know these existed. Iām guessing Nintendo is just continuing to ride their trend of releasing limited retro stuff like the mini NES and SNES. Reminds me of a portable version of my RetroPie setup.
Absolutely, theyāre incredibly good at milking every penny out of their successful franchises, but here I am buying into it. LOL! Grossly overpriced compared to the small army of portable emulation handhelds out of China these days, but there was something about a N branded device i couldnāt resist. Add to it that almost immediately there was a challenge factor of a fairly difficult mod and I was hooked.
Put 3 x XPL-Hi 4000k from kaidoman in my brass fw3a. Theyre a little greener then the 5d xpl-hi, but they are rosier then JA3 sst20 4000k. Defintely very happy with them since it had 6500k xpl-hi bc it was all i could get at NG, because i wanted the brass.
Okay, so I didnāt mod it today, but a long time ago - however I finally own a luxmeter. Itās a LX1330B so it shouldnāt bee too inaccurate.
I measured 157(*100) at 5m, which according to my math comes out to 392,500 cd? From searching for my post on the mod, I saw someone mention Z1s with W1s get 375-400kcd so that seems about right. Iām quite pleased with myself!
Anyway itās a good start. But, I will have to go outdoors if my next build goes as planned, because the meter maxes out at below 2.5mcdā¦
I live in a small city appartment but there is one line (from the windowsill in the living room through the hall onto the front door) that allows a measurement at 13.35 meter, so up to 36 Mcd Iām good
Hmm I can get 8.28m in my house, so just over 6.8Mcd. Still have to go outside for the next buildā¦ My meter will only read to 999*100, I thinkā¦
Okay I got it out and I was incorrect. It will read to 200,000. So at 5m I can measure 5Mcd and at 8.28m, 13Mcd. Hopefully my next build (well, build series, I have a few sizes of fresnel lens) will still send me outside but we will see!
I couldnāt resist and made another triple Optisolis S2+, this time in 4000K. My other 2 are 6500K and 5000K.
Same set-up as the others, host from Kaidomain, driver from Convoy, LED board from Adventure Sport Flashlights, spacer from Mountain Electronics, and Nichias from Virence.
Reflowing the Optisolis LEDs onto the board was very easy and they centered right up. I used a little more than usual soldering paste due to the big pads.
The driver needed a 470 ohm bleeder resister due to the lighted tailcap. I made a light purple tailcap by combining pink and warm white 0805 SMD LEDs. The driver retaining ring needed to be grinded down in the middle to make room for the 7135 chips.
And again I used a Carclo 10511 frosted narrow spot optic and frosted 1 side of the lens.
There are plenty of lumens, it has some throw, the beam is excellent, the tint is very good, and of course the CRI is amazing.
I also got a little creative with my Optisolis flashlights and matched the lighted tailcaps to the color of the hosts. And in case you are wondering, here are the measurements for the switches at 4.1 volts: blue = 0.15 milliamps (2.7 years), light orange = 0.33 milliamps (1.2 years), and light purple = 0.15 milliamps.
Note to self: copy this man. I would like, but donāt have, both an Optisolis light and a purple tail capā¦ The more purple, the better.
Nice mod NuetralFan 
Beautiful lights, NeutralLights!