Swapped a 219B sw30 into a Lumintop Frog
I really wish it had Anduril on it but getting flywires soldered to those tiny QFN pins was not happening that day 
Great job on the A6, Firelight2! I’ve been working on something similar but yours is better in every way. Mine is also a 18500 triple now but it currently lacks a clip. I really like that light for modding.
Thanks. Love this Nyogel 767a. It makes these magnetic rings feel deluxe.
Love the TCR-01 too. It’s my favorite magnetic ring light.
The Wowtac A6 is definitely one of my favorite mod lights.
- Inexpensive
- Super fast shipping from Amazon
- Great knurling
- Good UI (similar to an Olight). It’s not as good as Anduril2, but good enough.
- Good output
- Very compact for an 18650 light.
- Makes an excellent mod host
I feel the same on both counts. 767a is a fantastic damping grease for my TCR-1, also my favorite Rotary Light.
on the new 2020 RRT-01 the 767a really helps improve the feel of the ring. otoh, I managed to put too much 767a on a V11r, so that the rotary dial resistance was actually too high. I solved that by spraying a bit of isopropyl onto the outside of the dial (no disassembly), and working the dial back and forth and wiping away the alcohol with diluted nyogel residue.
Congrats on your mods… 
I also had to adjust the Nyogel 767a in some of these lights. The V11R was easy. Just unscrew using grip tape, lift off the ring and wipe the Nyogel off the ring but not the body to reduce the amount in there. Or add more using a toothpick.
I got the TCR-1 right on the first try, but had too much in the RRT-01. I had to disassemble the RRT-01 twice which required full disassembly. That was a pain.
agree,
the 2012 RRT-01, and the TCR-1 both require complete removal of the mcpcb and the driver, to access the control ring grease area. V11r and 2019 RRT-01 just need the control ring opened, no need to remove mcpcb, nor driver.
On the 2020 RRT-01, there is a lubrication hole in the control ring, so grease can be added without any disassembly. Thats a good thing, cause I was unable to unscrew the control ring assembly… it was heavily glued shut… but the lubrication hole worked perfectly.
I modded my dad’s cheapo 2 AA wood flashlight. Nothing fancy, but made a big improvement.
First the bluish LED was replaced with a Samsung 4000K 90+ CRI LH351D. Since the entire aluminum head (under the wood) was 1 piece, I had to hammer the driver through the head towards the plastic lens in order to get to the LED. The MTN 16mm MCPCB pressed perfectly into the hollow pill. I also replaced the dental floss sized driver wires with 24 AWGs, but probably didn’t matter since the 1 mode flashlight only draws 0.6 amps.
Second was improving the switch. It was difficult to press. So I replaced the silicone tailcap with one that had a longer interior bump. Now it’s very responsive. I also soldered the spring to the switch tab. Seemed strange that the tab was just inserted into the spring, but perhaps a part was missing holding the spring in place.
I noticed that my dad scraped at the driver board. There must’ve been some type of connection issue (maybe it was the spring). That was the usual solution for the older incandescent flashlights.
The flashlight is a good size (6 1/8 inches / 15.5 cm) and wood body feels good in my hands. I can see why my dad used it a lot. He also probably got it for a couple dollars, or probably free, so replacing the LED likely cost more than the flashlight. But the LED was a leftover from a previous mod, so I’m glad I was able to put it to good use.
Looks like a well loved light Neutralfan 
I like the used wood look 
I got to work on lights for the first time in a while. I pulled the lep module i had installed in this 1405 and went back to led. Since i bored out the pill to suit the lep I had to lathe up some parts to re-fit the led star and driver. I used a yingding 5050 and an ld-4a driver. I think i did something to the driver though because it seems to be a single mode now, drawing a bit over 4 amps. The led can be driven a little harder but as it is, it’s comparable to my astrolux wp4. All pics 1405 left and wp4 right
Whoa! Nice tight beams!
Especially that last shot, looks like the USS Star Track firing its phasors at those bushes! 
The led certainly looks to have the better tint over the lep. But the WP4 is sooo much more compact than the 1405!!
My latest mod (S8 with high cri sfn55.2, posted above) has a bit the same thing going on: it has become a nice light, but on all aspects a bit worse than a stock light that I have (D4 with high cri sst20’s). (except that it is cheaper, about 25 dollar in parts, compared to 55 dollar for the d4).
Compare this to 8 years ago when the leds developed faster than the flashlight companies would dare to adapt their flashlights for them, every mod was vastly superior to any stock light!
I’ve been trying to find 20mm 12V mcpcb for XHP50.3’s.
Today I quickly made one myself. Problem solved.
That is definitely one way to do it.
I’m going to order from Mtnelectronics
Did you do that with some rotary tool? I tried doing stuff like that with a knife years ago and had serious trouble shorting the traces with the core of the board (copper bits traversing the dielectric layer). Had it working eventually but it was a serious pain finding and fixing all the shorts.
I thought I checked their page. 
Well, it’s still going to cost a lot to order just 1 mcpcb over Atlantic.
With sharp knife. It was surprisingly easy.
Different make of boards maybe, mine was a Sinkpad back then.
I first made sharp cuts and then scratched them wider using the same blade. When shiny copper turned to dull white, I knew there was no more connection.
I went through the white layer into the copper core, then trouble started, I guess I was not as careful. 