Thrunite T2. I’ve had the light for a few years but hated the Cree rainbow of the cool white 70.2. I previously tried a GTFC40, then an SST20 4000k / 519a 3000k quad.
Today I tried the slice on the 70.2. That made a slight improvement. I then tried the “dice” but didn’t take it too far because I don’t have a good magnifying glass. Some improvement but still green around the hot spot.
Next… and I knew this wasn’t going to work, I painted the white gasket and around the die with black acrylic paint. Well, it did eliminate the green, but the paint started to smoke on turbo.
So I scraped off the paint and used black marker on the gasket. And it worked! Green just about gone. I didn’t do the most scientific of testing each step but I think just blacking-out the gasket should have a pretty good effect.
I put 519A 3000k and XPP 3000k 90 CRI in a D4V2 dual channel. After playing around with it a bit one of the 519A either died or de-soldered itself (guessing a bad reflow). Oh well, it turned out there was too much current for those XPP anyway.
BTW, I think the XPP would be awesome in a single channel, boost driver, D4V2 (2 amp max, right?). Great tint and CRI with a pretty punchy beam.
If it’s anything like how I do it, test each one, carefully arrange them by polarity, then drop a few as in putting them on the board, test again… second-guess myself on the ones I already placed and test those again. 50/50 chance I get it right the first time and that’s if I’m only making a triple
I know LED are very small and not easy to handle but…
put under LED a transparent piece of plastic or an optic or a lens and you have to use only the test leads.
I think I don’t understand my problem lmao. I think I know what you were saying now.
So I reflowed an sfq65 today, the one thats like an xhp50 hi knockoff, 5050 with the 4 die emitter.
Looked good except 2 or the dies arent quite as bright as the other two. It’s two on the same side, that are above the same solder pad. That’s not enough solder paste on that one pad, right?