What did you mod today?

Thrunite T2. I’ve had the light for a few years but hated the Cree rainbow of the cool white 70.2. I previously tried a GTFC40, then an SST20 4000k / 519a 3000k quad.

Today I tried the slice on the 70.2. That made a slight improvement. I then tried the “dice” but didn’t take it too far because I don’t have a good magnifying glass. Some improvement but still green around the hot spot.

Next… and I knew this wasn’t going to work, I painted the white gasket and around the die with black acrylic paint. Well, it did eliminate the green, but the paint started to smoke on turbo.

So I scraped off the paint and used black marker on the gasket. And it worked! Green just about gone. I didn’t do the most scientific of testing each step but I think just blacking-out the gasket should have a pretty good effect.

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EC06 from XHP 6500k to SFQ65 3000k



I put 519A 3000k and XPP 3000k 90 CRI in a D4V2 dual channel. After playing around with it a bit one of the 519A either died or de-soldered itself (guessing a bad reflow). Oh well, it turned out there was too much current for those XPP anyway.

BTW, I think the XPP would be awesome in a single channel, boost driver, D4V2 (2 amp max, right?). Great tint and CRI with a pretty punchy beam.

How do you tell cathode from anode on those things?

Tester in diode mode
Red is +
Black is -
If the led goes on is the right direction
On mcpcb there are plus and minus for LEDs and you follow

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RRT01 tail inserts with 5 trits, made from Ti laminate, flame anodized.

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Darn, they’re totally symmetrical top and bottom? Just have to test every single one?
That’s annoying.

Thanks

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If it’s anything like how I do it, test each one, carefully arrange them by polarity, then drop a few as in putting them on the board, test again… second-guess myself on the ones I already placed and test those again. 50/50 chance I get it right the first time and that’s if I’m only making a triple

How did you machine the slots so square in the corners?

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yes, every single one :smiley: and yes that’s annoying but they are only 6… 2 minutes and it’s done

2 minutes for you maybe. I know I’m going to do exactly like @James_C was saying and I’ll end up testing each one at least 3 times lol

I know LED are very small and not easy to handle but…
put under LED a transparent piece of plastic or an optic or a lens and you have to use only the test leads.

I’m not sure what you mean by this

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Installed a Mule Optic in one of my FW3A — Nice, no artifacts

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I received a brass TS10 a while ago, but the shiny brass felt cheap kind of cheap.
It looked almost casted instead of turned.

So I brushed outside of the light, gives it more of a satin shine like on a Sinner or Okluma.

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That came out real nice.

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Maybe I don’t understand your problem😌

Just a color change of the host, and only for the reason that I can distinguish the light with dedomed 519A LEDs from the original version :smiley:

In the moment my favourite light. Simple use and really good light quality (Ra around 95, R9 80)

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Nice

I think I don’t understand my problem lmao. I think I know what you were saying now.

So I reflowed an sfq65 today, the one thats like an xhp50 hi knockoff, 5050 with the 4 die emitter.
Looked good except 2 or the dies arent quite as bright as the other two. It’s two on the same side, that are above the same solder pad. That’s not enough solder paste on that one pad, right?