What exactly did you do? That looks great. I don’t really like the way the brass version looks either. I’m waiting for mine to patina naturally but it’s awesome there are so many ways to treat brass.
That looks great dude!
1 Thank
I placed a scotch brite sanding pad on my workbech and slided the light over it in long straight strokes. Slightly rotating the light with each stroke.
2 Thanks
Can you do a picture?
Yes, less amount of solder paste can reduce the LED function
I tried to add some more solder and now it doesn’t light at all. Multimeter shows ~1.5v when I try. It was showing 2.35v when it was half lit. Not sure what that means. Looks fine to me. Just gonna try another one
Btw, these things totally have a cathode mark!
You jerks lmao. Making me test stuff.
I don’t see any mark in my led by maybe I look bad
Too solder is not good
At very low current some dies may look a little dimmer than others. If there’s a noticeable difference at medium or high current, the Emitter is probably defective.
The SFQ65 only has 1 Anode and 1 Cathode pad so it wouldn’t be a solder issue.
When checking continuity on a DTP(Direct Thermal Path) MCPCB, be sure to check between Anode & DTP and Cathode & DTP, there shouldn’t be any continuity.
2 Thanks
I modified a very decent hip replacement recovery by being stupid and loading a 3 wheeled battery powered scooter in my Mom’s car! Pulled or tore something, set me back after I’d been doing SO well!
Like our other mods, it Always pays to think things through and have patience! 
Ya I’m getting no continuity on either. Hm.
1 Thank
If proper plus and minus placement is observed, a continuity check across the emitter normally lights it up slightly, probably not with a 6V emitter though.
1 Thank
Jeff? Are you sure that corner cut identifies Cathode? Do you have a way to give it power independently, like an outside the flashlight source? Check it with wires reversed. I have an old Sanyo 18650FJ with a switch inline on a negative lead and the positive lead directly soldered to the battery, helps me test lights. The switch lets me kill the throughput on the neg lead to avoid shorts when it’s laying around.
Yes, I did check, thanks for looking out tho.
And I reflowed that new one and it works fine. And I took the dead one and put it on a new mcpcb and it’s still dead. Then I flowed another one onto the dead one’s old board, and it works too.
So idk maybe I cooked it. If I didn’t before I probably have by now lol. Reflowed like 5 times. How legit is that ‘do not reflow more than twice’ warning on the datasheet? Like a hard and fast rule or more like a suggestion?
1 Thank
You lose a little bit of output with each reflow.
Even with reflowing only once if you use to much heat you can loose as much 10% output.
That being said, 1 believe it’s more of a suggestion kinda like the current rating.
I wonder if that is from heat damage to the phosphor or the diode. The LEDs should survive it anyways, unless they’re especially delicate.
Don’t like the way my consumer lithium ion battery charger charges 14500s. So built my own DIY charger a few weeks ago, but didn’t have cause to practically test it until today.
Used all COTS components sourced from Amazon. The charging board is based on the TP4506, but converted to a hybrid trickle / smart charger. Included a two digit voltage display for piece of mind.
It worked quite nicely powered by one of my little power banks.
I notice these datasheets say to reflow in a nitrogen filled oven. Anybody try that? Idk what you’d actually gain, less oxidation I guess, but it’d be super easy to do. Its the cheapest safest compressed gas you can buy. The cylinder is expensive, that’ll set you back. But minus the cylinder, enough nitrogen to last you like 10 years would be maybe $20. You can even make your own with an oxygen concentrator.
Cuz air is basically just nitrogen and oxygen right. All the other stuff combined is like 1%. So oxygen concentrators are really just nitrogen removers. And it’s mostly nitrogen. Itd very cheap and easy to collect mostly pure nitrogen. All you do is remove oxygen from air. Somebody try this out
1 Thank
I think nitrogen for LEDs is a next step for djozz 
I solder LED in the old style with a torch lighter or a mini pan for eggs…I am so dirty 
3 Thanks
Nice, so I am totally blind 
There you go lol. I’m just curious if it does anything
The nitrogen itself is cheap. Cheap enough you could just aim a constant stream at your hotplate for pennies. But the cylinder and the regulator are not cheap. But maybe you have some scuba or welding stuff lying around lol. You can rent them. But that’s a few bucks a day.
Costco does free nitrogen refills if you buy your tires from them. Hook up some tires lmao. Go back to Costco everyday for a top up
1 Thank