What did you mod today?

That’s very interesting, the beam shape is alright but the tint is awful.

Have you tested the DUV with the optic off?

Some optics cause a greenish tint, for example the TIR of the Emisar D4S, it would be good to know if the tint is just from bad luck or from the optic.
If it’s the optic, I can’t imagine how bad an SST40 5000k would be.

1 Thank

I concur with YBF650 on that the optic might be responsible for the green tint. Some TIRs (like D4S optic or 10511) are truly something atrocious, concentrating all the yellow-green into the hotspot, and pink into the spill. But also 3700K reads way too high for a dedomed 4500K! Not sure how much the numbers can be trusted.

[EDIT] meant to name 10509 (wide frosted) as the bad example, not 10511!

There is a reason for that. The TIR is too shallow. When a TIR is that shallow, it only collects the outer most ring of emission from an LED for hotspot, which usually has the lowest CCT and highest DUV due to angular tint shift. As a result, it gives a yellow-green hotspot and blue-magenta spill.

It’s possible that the optic’s red transmission is not as good as blues and greens, it would explain the positive DUV too.

I haven’t had issues with the tint shift, mostly just consistently being less rosy with the Angie-S of the D4Sv2, I think it might be due to the optic being some PMMA blend instead of PC like Carclo uses.

It’d be very interesting to see testing on the light transmission of different TIR models and manufacturers though, for example those quad TIRs that Fireflies, Sofirn, Convoy, and Wurkkos use.

I’ve only tried the 219b sw45k with 10511 (in a K9.3) and I quite liked it though, the beam was noticeably more rosy compared to the 10611 in my DT8 sw45k (-0.0101 vs -0.0086). It came with 10507 which were not as nice of a beam, having a darker ring between the spill and hotspot.
If your 10511 was from an FW3A it’s possible that it was the sub-par copy that Lumintop used at one point.

1 Thank

no… but there are a lot of issues w this mod, things like, dedoming created a larger airgap to the flat Tir which is imo not as good as a conical Tir, and may or may not be affecting the tint, and is also not collecting sidelight from the LED, which I suppose could explain the higher than expected CCT

Ive seen a range of tint and cct in various 4500K 519a, in a few different hosts:

domed in a reflector:

dedomed w pebbled Tir:

dedomed in a frosted Tir

domed and dedomed in a pebbled Tir

my conclusion is that LEDa are not consistent… their tint and CCT varies, for reasons :wink:

And some Tir work better w some LEDs and not others… for example the Tir in the SC13 is a very poor match for a Dedomed 519a… the beam is bad, the output is bad…

1 Thank

Do you still have an HS10 (same optic)? Didn’t you emitter swap that one? If so, what did you use and how does it look?

I put a domed 519a 3500k in my HS10 and the tint/beam is great, although I’m using DC fix to smooth it out. IIRC it had some rings.

yes, the optic is a better match for a Domed 519a:


than dedomed:

the dedomed 519a not only sits too far from the Tir, it is also smaller than the base opening of the Tir … a Dedomed 519a is just a poor match for this flat Tir in the SC13 (and HS10),


another issue w the dedomed beam is it creates a bright ring around the hotspot, which looks more like a shadow in the center, at certain distances… just poor focal position… the dedomed LED just sits too low imo… too much airgap…

The HS10 has a couple of advantages over the SC13… screwed in bezel and 3535 mcpcb…

Ugh, idk what it is about concentric circles in beams but they give me the heeby-jeebies. Like I actually had a physical reaction when looking at that.

me too… makes me laugh… I just cant take the flat Tir seriously…

I feel the same way about green tint, and Low CRI… I just shake my head in disbelief…

imo the conical pebbled Tir I use in the SC21 Pro produces a Much Cleaner Beam.

1 Thank

For sure, but it’s also quite a bit taller, right? I’m hoping this flat TIR can have its place in certain situations where you need the thinnest optic possible. It just might require a domed emitter, or perhaps the ability to adjust the air gap… or a layer or two of DC fix, ha.

The beamshot looks nice! Do you like the dedomed 519a in the D2 with frosted optic?

yes…

using a domed LED is the best we can do w the flat fresnel style Tir. I do think a smaller airgap might help w the DeDomed but I have not tried.

yes, very much, I was very pleasantly suprised by how good (lower DUV) the tint is.

It would! Certain optic/emitter combos are simply better than others. 519A with 10507 is a famously good one, it gives a large and perfectly round hotspot. And then there are other optics like the Wurkkos TS25 quad optic that can turn a 519A green.

I realize I mis-typed–I meant to name 10509 (wide frosted) as an example of an atrocious TIR! I’ll go back and edit the post. Try that with 519A 5700K domed, and one would see what I mean. I got both 10509 and 10511 from LEDSupply.

I can imagine the 10511 being ok with the 219B, which has the least angular tint shift of any domed emitter. For some strange reason Carclo has 2 clear options in the quad series; the 10622 and 10611 appear to have the same design (small central convex lens) and I think it’s what 10511 is based on, just with frosting. The 10507/10621 has the other design with a large central convex lens, which does a good job controlling angular tint shift.

1 Thank

I swapped a Sofirn SP33S from 5000K low CRI XHP70.2 HD to 5700K 90CRI XHP70.3 HI today.

Since I did not want to desolder the original LED and keep my option to back-swap, I slightly modified a 20mm star from Simon to fit. It’s not ideal, but does kinda fit with 2 edges slightly filed off.

The original screws have slightly too small heads and don’t hold the PCB too well, but it works. Will replace with wider head screws at a later point.

Here’s some comparison pictures of the beam on a white door. All pics taken with 4000K white balance locked in the camera. The brighter spot in the upper left corner of the spot is an artifact created by reflections, it’s not actually present in any of the 3 beams.

SP33S XHP70.2 HD 5000K low CRI

SP33S XHP70.3 HI 5700K high CRI

Comparison: S2+ 519A 5700K dedomed

I guess I now know why sofirn never sold this light with 70.3 HI update… The beam looks kinda odd. I like the smaller hotspot and hence more throw, I love the fact that it is finally not green anymore. But those weird rings in the spill… Not ideal. Guess that was to be expected from using a reflector not made for this LED. Still hoped it’d be better.

The LED itself is awesome though - Simon got great tint-free and tint-shift-free cold high CRI 70.3 HI emitters.

6 Thanks

Might be worth trying different centering gasket thicknesses. Like add some Kapton layers on mcpcb under the gasket to see if raising the reflector makes a difference. Lowering the reflector isn’t as easy. Either sanding the current gasket or buying thinner ones.

Nice to know that Simon’s bin is good.

4 Thanks

All HI swaps tonight. CSLPM1 in an SP32A. It had an XP-L HI but I’m aiming tighter.


Then an SFT40 for the SC31 Pro, which apparently, is hitting higher amps than it likes. The original SST40 had no issue.

I’ll use a lower performance battery to save it.

2 Thanks

The SFT40 surface is very fragile, and any dirtyness will be promptly carbonized when it gets to full power. It might be flux residue that was burned, but it ended up burning some of the phosphor too. Happened with me, it’s not an over current issue.

2 Thanks

This applies to mostly all domeless (HI) LEDs.
Domed LEDs are better in this regard, due to the silicone dome and less luminance on the LED surface.

Thank you. I have done other installs with preflowed emitters without an issue. Those were from Simon but this one was ordered from Kaidomain. This emitter isn’t further blackening.
Is isopropyl alcohol safe for HI emitter cleaning?

Another question: was this a 5000K SFT-40?