DM 1.12 modded with a D4sV2 12 amp 2ch driver. The ring runs 8 sst20 4000k and 4- 519a 4500k de-dome the throw is SFT-40
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Nice! Do the dedomed 519a blend well with the SST20?
Does the lower Vf make the 519A noticeably brighter than the SST-20?
No not all
Running 12 amps through the SFT-40 makes it stupid bright it I’ve been trying to get a good beam shot but pics dont do it justice
Convoy has 50.3 HI’s in 7A tint. I have one and it’s obviously below bbl.
They have 5D now too which should also be (edit:close to or) below bbl.
If only Simon had 4500K XHP50.3 and XHP70.3.
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Which CCT?
3000k and 4000k
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Got a Sofirn SC32 today - promptly emitter swapped it.
This is the stock SST40. WB set at 5000K. It’s uglier than it looks in the pic.
Here is the MCPCB. It’s an interesting light. Tail e-switch. There’s a small hole in the side of the head for the battery indicator light. The white wire provides battery negative to the driver, so similar to say a TS10 with the screw through the shelf connecting the driver to the body, electrically.
I put a FFL5050 3500K in it. Much better now.
I like aspects of this light - nice and compact, good feel, switch is nice. Not so great are the stock LED (easily fixed), and the flat optic has rings in the beam that exhibit chromatic aberration (sort of a rainbow of colors in the rings, but not super noticeable in normal use). The big issue is if you look up a runtime graph. Both Zeroair and 1Lumen show high/medium dropping down to the same ~300 lumens after a few minutes.
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All credits to @Lichtkopf whom I saw do this mod first. I thought they did a fantastic job, so it inspired me.
Boruit D10 is my favourite headlamp due to how cheap yet sturdy it is. It’s also very moddable, you do emitter swap very easily and with a little sanding, most 20mm TIR lenses can fit in the head.
Gutted and stripped down, next to components ready for upgrade. (Note my super special customized plastic washers made from a soft drink bottle)
This particular driver only needs some minor filing around the side where you thread the wires through. I used a mini dremel with sanding head.
It’s a bit fiddly, but you need to thread the wires through those grooves, or else the battery won’t fit. Pic later of what I mean.
Installed correctly, the USB-C port should line up almost perfectly.
XHP50.3 HI 4000K R70 soldered in. Tint seems fine.
I accidentally destroyed the stock plastic spacer, but IDK if they would have worked anyway. So instead I made these from a plastic bottle.
Charging works. Not sure of the amps on the convoy charging unit.
A bit hard to see, but the wires are threaded down the trenches.
Fully assembled
On my baked D10 I superglued a cheap flat magnet on the tailcap
Beamshot of XHP50.3 HI 4000K R70 from Convoy. In reality it’s a bit warmer. But seems quite clean, not much visible green or shifting.
They recently changed the UI for the worse, with recent units of the D10. UI somehow has 1 second delay in all actions, whether changing modes, switching on/off, etc. Very bad. So I decided to try out the Convoy 6V3A e-switch driver (meant for S21E and H3 headlamp). Driver needs some filiing but actually the fit is quite good.
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Great job! I bought 2 D10s a while ago but I’ve been slacking off of ordering the driver and emitters. Glad to see you did the same work I was planning to do. One thing to notice is the Convoy MCPCB seems to have some extra corners that are in conflict with the D10 host in my case as shown in the pic. I had to file off those corners marked in red circles in order for the MCPCB to sit flush with the host to make good contact. Can you check if your MCPCB is making good contact without modification?
Yes but the interesting thing is that this particular 5050 board with the xhp50.3 doesn’t seem to have that problem. It just slipped in perfectly without any issue. However, with some other 3535 boards I’ve experienced what you’re talking about. Maybe it’s just different batches.
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Not particularly a mod compared to what most of y’all do here, ie emitter or driver swaps, but I made a Headlamp out of my SP10 Pro.
Why? Just to prove I could, really…
I had been semi curious about Anduril on a headlamp, and the challenge of the 3d modeling, which is the most fun for me lately, I figured why not try it.
Needs some tweaks to my soldering and hardware choices(need some tiny ring terminals which I didn’t have on hand), and thread clearances, but it works!
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Nice! Too bad it has such a tall driver, huh? I bought one wanting to use it on something and didn’t realize how big it is.
What software do you use for 3D modeling? Just last night I thought about trying freecad but decided I don’t have the time to go down that rabbit hole right now.
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